Help out a dumb newbie with way too many incoherent inquisitions.
10-01-2018, 08:50 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help out a dumb newbie with way too many incoherent inquisitions.
First off plans are to have everything installed and ready to tune by Jan 14th, that's the soonest time I can get it to him because how busy he is. Truck is a 2007 silverado ccsb with a 4.8(non flex fuel) leveled with 33s. I want to get a somewhat reliable setup that retains A/C. I have most of the bare essentials already purchased.
-cheapy .96 A/R t4 furbo
-huron turbo log manifold
-injector connection decapped injectors
-CX racing 31x12x3 intercooler and piping
-dirty dingo LS oil feed
Plans to purchase:
-Tial/turbo smart 50mm/60mm wastegate
-turbosmart manual T boost controller(not sure I need this either)
-walbro 450 pump
-driver side manifold and crossover pipe(probably hooker turbo)
-3 bar zl1 map sensor(not sure if this is the right part for me)
now for my questions lol.
1. I know my turbo is way too big. Plan to change that out with a on3 later on. I was told with larger turbos you need more wastegate to control it. I want to keep it under 5psi for now so I figured 50mm or 60mm would be good. My manifold has a 44mm flange already installed, could I just do a tial 44mm wastegate and not have to worry about boost creep? And is there a cheaper option? Cuz damn bruh 500-750 for a little valve sounds like some oilfield pricing.
2. I have horrible patience(which is funny with how many NFA items I have). Once I get my parts I'm missing, in theory, couldn't I just do the install and set the boost to 5psi via wastegate? Am I correct in thinking that I dont need tuned for the bigger fuel pump but I need tuned for bigger injectors? Can the stock injector handle up to 5psi?
3. I've heard the stock driveshaft commits suicide around 100mph. I imagine that means it wouldn't like hard launches either. What do I need to look for to replace it? And I assume I need a 80e and some sort of torque converter with a different stall? I'll be real with you chief, I dont understand anything about that.
4. This is a learning experience for me. Its paid off and I have 3 other vehicles lol. Is there anything I'm missing or I should know about? I'm going into this blind with only YouTube and forum posts about models that aren't specific to my year and engine size. I dont expect many responses, but if you do that's not roasting me, I'd appreciate it.
-cheapy .96 A/R t4 furbo
-huron turbo log manifold
-injector connection decapped injectors
-CX racing 31x12x3 intercooler and piping
-dirty dingo LS oil feed
Plans to purchase:
-Tial/turbo smart 50mm/60mm wastegate
-turbosmart manual T boost controller(not sure I need this either)
-walbro 450 pump
-driver side manifold and crossover pipe(probably hooker turbo)
-3 bar zl1 map sensor(not sure if this is the right part for me)
now for my questions lol.
1. I know my turbo is way too big. Plan to change that out with a on3 later on. I was told with larger turbos you need more wastegate to control it. I want to keep it under 5psi for now so I figured 50mm or 60mm would be good. My manifold has a 44mm flange already installed, could I just do a tial 44mm wastegate and not have to worry about boost creep? And is there a cheaper option? Cuz damn bruh 500-750 for a little valve sounds like some oilfield pricing.
2. I have horrible patience(which is funny with how many NFA items I have). Once I get my parts I'm missing, in theory, couldn't I just do the install and set the boost to 5psi via wastegate? Am I correct in thinking that I dont need tuned for the bigger fuel pump but I need tuned for bigger injectors? Can the stock injector handle up to 5psi?
3. I've heard the stock driveshaft commits suicide around 100mph. I imagine that means it wouldn't like hard launches either. What do I need to look for to replace it? And I assume I need a 80e and some sort of torque converter with a different stall? I'll be real with you chief, I dont understand anything about that.
4. This is a learning experience for me. Its paid off and I have 3 other vehicles lol. Is there anything I'm missing or I should know about? I'm going into this blind with only YouTube and forum posts about models that aren't specific to my year and engine size. I dont expect many responses, but if you do that's not roasting me, I'd appreciate it.
10-01-2018, 10:04 AM
#2
Yes, you must tune the computer for the larger injectors, 3 bar MAP sensor and overall it must be calibrated to support boost. There is no way around that.
That specific 3 bar MAP sensor works, just the pins on the harness have to be switched around but that's no big deal.
Correct, going above 100mph may cause the driveshaft to explode and break stuff. Most get a built 3in or 3.5in steel driveshaft made. Some even do a 5in aluminum driveshaft that is made to handle power and high speeds.
Your 4L60e may last a little bit but if you thrash it, die quickly it will. A 4L80e is a great idea if you want the trasnsmission to last a long time. A stall converter is not a must if you still have the stock camshaft.
That specific 3 bar MAP sensor works, just the pins on the harness have to be switched around but that's no big deal.
Correct, going above 100mph may cause the driveshaft to explode and break stuff. Most get a built 3in or 3.5in steel driveshaft made. Some even do a 5in aluminum driveshaft that is made to handle power and high speeds.
Your 4L60e may last a little bit but if you thrash it, die quickly it will. A 4L80e is a great idea if you want the trasnsmission to last a long time. A stall converter is not a must if you still have the stock camshaft.
10-01-2018, 12:07 PM
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, you must tune the computer for the larger injectors, 3 bar MAP sensor and overall it must be calibrated to support boost. There is no way around that.
That specific 3 bar MAP sensor works, just the pins on the harness have to be switched around but that's no big deal.
Correct, going above 100mph may cause the driveshaft to explode and break stuff. Most get a built 3in or 3.5in steel driveshaft made. Some even do a 5in aluminum driveshaft that is made to handle power and high speeds.
Your 4L60e may last a little bit but if you thrash it, die quickly it will. A 4L80e is a great idea if you want the trasnsmission to last a long time. A stall converter is not a must if you still have the stock camshaft.
That specific 3 bar MAP sensor works, just the pins on the harness have to be switched around but that's no big deal.
Correct, going above 100mph may cause the driveshaft to explode and break stuff. Most get a built 3in or 3.5in steel driveshaft made. Some even do a 5in aluminum driveshaft that is made to handle power and high speeds.
Your 4L60e may last a little bit but if you thrash it, die quickly it will. A 4L80e is a great idea if you want the trasnsmission to last a long time. A stall converter is not a must if you still have the stock camshaft.
where is everybody finding the driveshafts? 4l80e's are usually a straight over swap with a new connectors or do I need a new transmission computer? TCM?
I just want to be able to boost it on stock tune/fuel until Jan on my tune date. Really dont want to have to trailer it there
10-01-2018, 01:21 PM
#4
Anywhere that makes driveshafts. You'll need to look up places local to you or something along those lines.
If you have a NBS 2007 truck there is no TCM for the transmission. You tune the computer to run it. With a NNBS 2007 truck I don't know the exact requirements to run the 4L80e on the newer computers.
You can't run boost on a stock tune, injectors etc etc. If you want it to blow up then go ahead but I highly suggest you don't.
If you have a NBS 2007 truck there is no TCM for the transmission. You tune the computer to run it. With a NNBS 2007 truck I don't know the exact requirements to run the 4L80e on the newer computers.
You can't run boost on a stock tune, injectors etc etc. If you want it to blow up then go ahead but I highly suggest you don't.
10-01-2018, 01:33 PM
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anywhere that makes driveshafts. You'll need to look up places local to you or something along those lines.
If you have a NBS 2007 truck there is no TCM for the transmission. You tune the computer to run it. With a NNBS 2007 truck I don't know the exact requirements to run the 4L80e on the newer computers.
You can't run boost on a stock tune, injectors etc etc. If you want it to blow up then go ahead but I highly suggest you don't.
If you have a NBS 2007 truck there is no TCM for the transmission. You tune the computer to run it. With a NNBS 2007 truck I don't know the exact requirements to run the 4L80e on the newer computers.
You can't run boost on a stock tune, injectors etc etc. If you want it to blow up then go ahead but I highly suggest you don't.
10-05-2018, 12:45 PM
#6
If you install all of the aforementioned parts the truck most likely won’t run due to the tuning being out of whack. If it does run it will be very poorly and not enough to drive it to the dyno, unless you are a block away.
As far as WG’s go a well placed small gate will work better then a larger gate or two small gates
Case in point, I have a 39mm Precision gate and a 7875 with zero creep
As far as WG’s go a well placed small gate will work better then a larger gate or two small gates
Case in point, I have a 39mm Precision gate and a 7875 with zero creep
10-05-2018, 01:03 PM
#7
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you install all of the aforementioned parts the truck most likely won’t run due to the tuning being out of whack. If it does run it will be very poorly and not enough to drive it to the dyno, unless you are a block away.
As far as WG’s go a well placed small gate will work better then a larger gate or two small gates
Case in point, I have a 39mm Precision gate and a 7875 with zero creep
As far as WG’s go a well placed small gate will work better then a larger gate or two small gates
Case in point, I have a 39mm Precision gate and a 7875 with zero creep
I plan to install it and have the wastegate fully open to not allow boost so I can pull it on the trailer, install the injectors there. No boosting on stock parts.
do i need a FPR for my planned setup? Is there anything else I'm not thinking out here? Forgive me guys I'm new and everybody starts somewhere.
Trending Topics
10-16-2018, 12:01 PM
#10
point taken. It's a NNBS. So basically tune it myself(that'd be a whole other rabbithole) or just trailer it to the shop and not start it until after the tune. So that just leaves me really with the question about wastegates. 44mm, 50mm, 60mm? And not sure if I should run dual gates or not.
