Help me not miss anything.
#1
I have been close many times to finishing my truck The HD. So nothing is set in stone about completion till it fires but I am truly the closest I have ever been. I have a manifold flipped turbo kit. 76 mm with waste gate, blow off valve, and intercooler. The engine is a stock "01 4.8 I have 60 lb. Injectors, and a Walbro 255 that will drain the fuel cell when needed.
Things I expect to need is a wide band to aid in tuning that will at least be started by Blackbear. He tuned the truck a few years ago so I will have him get me a baseline tune and attempt to streamline it on my own with either efi live.
Am I missing anything needed to get it up and runnkng?
Things I expect to need is a wide band to aid in tuning that will at least be started by Blackbear. He tuned the truck a few years ago so I will have him get me a baseline tune and attempt to streamline it on my own with either efi live.
Am I missing anything needed to get it up and runnkng?
#3
I have some valve springs. I was going to cam my Denali and use them in it but I might just stick to getting The HD done since money always runs out before I get on project finished let alone two!
Do others agree on springs? The engine has 160,000 on it and I won't be spinning past 6000 I don't think.
Also just to confirm the truck has an 80e so I need the flex plate of the stock 6.0 correct?
Do others agree on springs? The engine has 160,000 on it and I won't be spinning past 6000 I don't think.
Also just to confirm the truck has an 80e so I need the flex plate of the stock 6.0 correct?
Last edited by custm2500; Jul 5, 2014 at 12:05 PM.
#4
Just my opinion but I would still do valve springs. The added boost will likely make the factory springs creep open and may add to causing valve float in the upper RPM range.
#7
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#8
The truck has a factory adapter. I will just T the line.
I have seen some have a bung added to the pan. Is that the only way or is there a plug that can be removed somewhere on the engine?
I have seen some have a bung added to the pan. Is that the only way or is there a plug that can be removed somewhere on the engine?
#9
You seriously must not be faimiliar with these engines at all.... Still.....
Just like the dozens of others, you'll have to drill the pan (above the operating oil level) and return it there. Unless you want to run a scavenge pump and return it into a valve cover ghetto STS style.
Anyone else want to start a pool on how long this engine lasts?
Just like the dozens of others, you'll have to drill the pan (above the operating oil level) and return it there. Unless you want to run a scavenge pump and return it into a valve cover ghetto STS style.
Anyone else want to start a pool on how long this engine lasts?
#10
I was just confirming that on the heavy duty oil cooling set up there wasn't anything extra. I have a guy who can weld a bung in my oil pan no problem. Would it be any benefit to keep the factory oil cooler in line before the turbo?
Most people who turbo don't do it to a 2500 chassis and I don't believe the oil coolers are common on the 1500 trucks. Sorry I don't know everything. Like anything I do I try to learn everything I can.
As for going in the valve cover that sounds like a bad idea.
Most people who turbo don't do it to a 2500 chassis and I don't believe the oil coolers are common on the 1500 trucks. Sorry I don't know everything. Like anything I do I try to learn everything I can.
As for going in the valve cover that sounds like a bad idea.






