Has Anyone Successfully Turboed a Truck and Kept the Stock Cats or Any Cats??
#31
Launching!
Ummm, what the hell do you think powers ctsv, zr1, zl1, hell cat, demon? That's about the most uneducated statement I've ever read on here. Superchargers do not disappoint lol. Turbo trucks make good power but they are a pita to get setup properly and I've never seen one that was street legal. If you want legal fun supercharger is the route to go. FYI you will have as much or more into a turbo setup properly as you will a turn key supercharger system that has directions and tech support...
#32
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
Aside from the changes I made because I'm an #elitist, I installed my blower in ~2hrs and ran it for over 10k mi
Then I sold it
Then I missed it and bought another one. Same 2hrs install, but it came off because trans issues and blower oil leak
Rebuilt blower with upgrades, went to 8 rib drive, just bought all the fuel system stuff (except for a 4303) to make 700 with it
I think blower+fuel upgrades+ 8rib I am less than 5k into my "700hp" build. The 4303 will run me ~450 and I need to swap transmissions still. But thats pretty good return on investment IMO
Then I sold it
Then I missed it and bought another one. Same 2hrs install, but it came off because trans issues and blower oil leak
Rebuilt blower with upgrades, went to 8 rib drive, just bought all the fuel system stuff (except for a 4303) to make 700 with it
I think blower+fuel upgrades+ 8rib I am less than 5k into my "700hp" build. The 4303 will run me ~450 and I need to swap transmissions still. But thats pretty good return on investment IMO
The following 2 users liked this post by arthursc2:
smokinlmm (08-31-2021),
zz454Chevelle67 (08-31-2021)
#33
TECH Veteran
How tf you get a blower fuel upgrades and 8 rib for under 5k
You buy that used?
You buy that used?
#34
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
Used procharger P1 $1700
Pieced together 8 rib with LSA lower, Atomic bracket, dirty dingo pulleys, gates tensioner: $380
superchargersonline D1 upgrade and rebuild $700
frozen boost water to air "1200hp": $700
Holley rails/FPR/lines/flex sensor: $472
1000cc FICs: $550
Magnafuel 4303: $450
NNBS manifold: $60
90mm cable TB: $90
Need to buy a beans sump, 70amp relay, probably more lines/filters/adapters/brackets: call that $300, ish
I'm $5402 into it, assuming I still have a couple hundred to spend
Not everything needs to be astronomically expensive. Used parts are still good parts. If I hadnt spent the money on rails and NNBS swap, and stuck with the gen 3 truck manifold it would have been $4780 all in
Pieced together 8 rib with LSA lower, Atomic bracket, dirty dingo pulleys, gates tensioner: $380
superchargersonline D1 upgrade and rebuild $700
frozen boost water to air "1200hp": $700
Holley rails/FPR/lines/flex sensor: $472
1000cc FICs: $550
Magnafuel 4303: $450
NNBS manifold: $60
90mm cable TB: $90
Need to buy a beans sump, 70amp relay, probably more lines/filters/adapters/brackets: call that $300, ish
I'm $5402 into it, assuming I still have a couple hundred to spend
Not everything needs to be astronomically expensive. Used parts are still good parts. If I hadnt spent the money on rails and NNBS swap, and stuck with the gen 3 truck manifold it would have been $4780 all in
#35
TECH Veteran
Oh no for sure I was just wondering. Not trying to slight you I was just being curious is all
#36
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
I think the most expensive part of my 8 rib build was Atomic's bracket
I found a 3.8 procharger 8 rib pulley on ebay for $20 and thats what set off my drive to get the 8 rib. The LSA lower was $40 local. I got lucky, I won't lie. But being patient and waiting for deals really paid dividends for me. The only place I could find the PS pulley and alt pulley was Dirty Dingo. I heard rumors of finding some OE pulleys that were 8 rib, but never found anything concrete so I bit the bullet and bought the DD ones. I think they were $60 each, then I had them hard anodized because #elitist
I found a 3.8 procharger 8 rib pulley on ebay for $20 and thats what set off my drive to get the 8 rib. The LSA lower was $40 local. I got lucky, I won't lie. But being patient and waiting for deals really paid dividends for me. The only place I could find the PS pulley and alt pulley was Dirty Dingo. I heard rumors of finding some OE pulleys that were 8 rib, but never found anything concrete so I bit the bullet and bought the DD ones. I think they were $60 each, then I had them hard anodized because #elitist
#37
So can someone counter my myth that there is some magic limitation when you try to surpass 500-600 with a supercharger? It seems like everyone gets to that number and is stuck in the 11s? It just seems to me when millions of OEM engines have had superchargers by now, but they still are 5-7k. I have looked all over for them used as well. I could understand that much money back in the early 2000s and 2010s.
I wonder why China hasn't stolen superchargers and made copies of them like they did with turbos? I am not condoning this practice by the way, but I think most "quality" things are still made in China anyway just to a different degree and then rebadged and marked up here to pay for liability and lawsuits mostly.
I wonder why China hasn't stolen superchargers and made copies of them like they did with turbos? I am not condoning this practice by the way, but I think most "quality" things are still made in China anyway just to a different degree and then rebadged and marked up here to pay for liability and lawsuits mostly.
#38
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
I think it depends on how hard you want to lean on it. Prochargers depreciate the fastest/ lowest, therefore used ones are often under 2k, pre-covid. Gen 3 roots/tvs/whipples aren't really manufactured anymore so its a supply and demand thing there. Used ones are more expensive because its hard or impossible to find new ones, so supply and demand
As for the cost, a turbo build is the same price. The "stage 1" kits might seem cheaper but after a tune/injectors/AC mods its gonna be similar to a NIB blower kit that is all inclusive with a canned tune
For the speed; I don't see many turbo SUVs deeper than the 11s either, so you're gonna have to be more specific. Getting 6000lbs down the 1/4 is A) hard, physics fights everything about it B) Drag racing is dumb That said, the fastest SUV I know of was an LSA blown 427 GMT900 Escalade and if I recall he was in the high 9s or low 10s. Not a stock motor at all, he used an LSX block. So to expect to be faster than 11s on SBE whether turbo or blower, I think is a far cry. The limit with blowers and HP is the blower RPM, eventually you can't spin it faster to move more air, it just becomes heated air or suffers cavitation. From there you go to a bigger blower and so on so forth. Turbo's aren't immune to this either, but to make matters worse a turbo that will "carry" high RPM air will suffer down low. There is no free lunch and you have to pick which compromise you're willing to make
But now you're having scope creep. First it was "I want to turbo and keep cats" ok, possible with some work and understanding nothing is going to be optimized for dyno queen numbers. Now its "I want to be deeper than 11s, make more than 5-600 and not modify my AC"
So whats your real goal? If you want to challenge Vettes and Mustangs and sports bikes; you picked the wrong ride
I mean realistically, 5-600 is all you're going to be able to make and keep things like the cats, trans, rear end and bottom end together anyway. Blower is the easiest way to get there. Offers the most off idle torque and will be the most fun to drive around the city
As for the cost, a turbo build is the same price. The "stage 1" kits might seem cheaper but after a tune/injectors/AC mods its gonna be similar to a NIB blower kit that is all inclusive with a canned tune
For the speed; I don't see many turbo SUVs deeper than the 11s either, so you're gonna have to be more specific. Getting 6000lbs down the 1/4 is A) hard, physics fights everything about it B) Drag racing is dumb That said, the fastest SUV I know of was an LSA blown 427 GMT900 Escalade and if I recall he was in the high 9s or low 10s. Not a stock motor at all, he used an LSX block. So to expect to be faster than 11s on SBE whether turbo or blower, I think is a far cry. The limit with blowers and HP is the blower RPM, eventually you can't spin it faster to move more air, it just becomes heated air or suffers cavitation. From there you go to a bigger blower and so on so forth. Turbo's aren't immune to this either, but to make matters worse a turbo that will "carry" high RPM air will suffer down low. There is no free lunch and you have to pick which compromise you're willing to make
But now you're having scope creep. First it was "I want to turbo and keep cats" ok, possible with some work and understanding nothing is going to be optimized for dyno queen numbers. Now its "I want to be deeper than 11s, make more than 5-600 and not modify my AC"
So whats your real goal? If you want to challenge Vettes and Mustangs and sports bikes; you picked the wrong ride
I mean realistically, 5-600 is all you're going to be able to make and keep things like the cats, trans, rear end and bottom end together anyway. Blower is the easiest way to get there. Offers the most off idle torque and will be the most fun to drive around the city
#39
makes children cry
iTrader: (5)
centrifugals are cheap & will get you a bragging horsepower number while being easy to go fast in a straight line; PD blowers & turbos are almost equal on the less-cheap scale but will get you a lot more torque that'll make a bigger difference in daily driving.
i've been running a TVS on my LS1 for 10yrs now at various power levels... started out at 480whp then to 540whp on ARH high-flow cats. after a lot of cat research in preparation for turning it up again, i took the exhaust apart to check, and while the cats were still intact, the spiral-wound elements were loose/wobbly in the resonator chambers (meaning they'd've eventually blown loose & clogged up)... so i punched them. current build has me somewhere at 650whp + whatever 3 more psi makes.
i started out not wanting to fork out the coin for a turbo setup... but now 10yrs in, if i'd put this same amount of money into turbos, i'd likely have a couple hundred more horses with the same or more torque as now.
i've been running a TVS on my LS1 for 10yrs now at various power levels... started out at 480whp then to 540whp on ARH high-flow cats. after a lot of cat research in preparation for turning it up again, i took the exhaust apart to check, and while the cats were still intact, the spiral-wound elements were loose/wobbly in the resonator chambers (meaning they'd've eventually blown loose & clogged up)... so i punched them. current build has me somewhere at 650whp + whatever 3 more psi makes.
i started out not wanting to fork out the coin for a turbo setup... but now 10yrs in, if i'd put this same amount of money into turbos, i'd likely have a couple hundred more horses with the same or more torque as now.
#40
makes children cry
iTrader: (5)
but arthur's right: you gotta pick a goal & take the route that gets you there... rather than throw money at the truck & see what sticks.
that goal can change along the way, as mine did, however, once you commit to one path, it becomes even more expensive to change paths altogether vs making the method you chose work better.
that goal can change along the way, as mine did, however, once you commit to one path, it becomes even more expensive to change paths altogether vs making the method you chose work better.