Reading is fundamental.

I think I can get it tight enough with my breaker bar and 2 nuts. :oomph:

 

I swear I read it like 3 times and kept seeing him use the 1/4 impact THEN use the drill for the pin, like they are separate tasks

 

Did you get it or do we need to break it down kindygarden??

 

I gotta agree with Atomic. I figured the OP got distracted and typed 1/4 when he meant 1/2 for the first one.

 

Hell i know people that you ask em for a 1/2" and they will bring you a 1/4" and vice versa and they work in the automotive industry!!!!

 

I've always done the ARP bolt and torqued it to 150 lbs with their bolt lube. I'd go tighter but don't have the wrench to do it. Never had an issue.

 

Well that was easy.

Took me all of 3min to drill the hole and put the pin in.


It took me longer to replace the tensioner.

Still got my nuts but it'll take a while for them to drop back down.

 

This is how I've done the last 1/2 dozen lsx I've had to r&r a crank pulley on. Obviously I use the pulley install tool to draw it in. Then I turn the compressor up to 120 and let the Ingersoll wail on an ARP bolt. Never had an issue but then again never had a pd blower.

 

Don't forget guys, when moving up to the ATI units, the hub needs to be hone fit to the crank snout. I've seen some come out of the box perfect and I've seen others that needed a hone job bad enough that broken parts would have probably followed.

 

This issue is increasingly important to on ls combos where the hub/banlacer contact length is much shorter than some other engine configurations,

***So just a quick tip, when building a new motor, always take the crank hub with you so that machine shop can obtain the desired press fit.