I have the sts remote mounted turbo. I constantly get water in the vac/boost lines by the turbo.

The other day I actually had some water in my map sensor.

I'm looking for a 12v valve that I can 'tee' off of the lowest point on the lines by the wg that will open when not energized and close when energized. I figure a 12v source during start/run should do it. It will have to be able to hold 20hg of vac and 11lbs of boost without opening.

Any suggestions on a valve???

 

Best thing I can think of is a motorized ball valve. They should work well for both as pressure and vacuum state. Only issue is they do have a slow open and close rate. Average 90 secs. Also they are rather expensive, about $150.00 for a 1/2 inch valve. One may be able to try a solinod vavle but I am not sure of how one would handle tha vacuum state. Normally they are a one way designed valve. In essence they are more like a globe valve that works best when pressure is against the disc. Check out a local plumbing supply house and see what they can get you.

Brian1

 

I've been on Graingers, mcmastercarr, etc.

Can't find anything that'll do it for under $100 and are small enough to make make it not look like a ricer.

Thinking about a sts boost control solenoid. Got to get a price.

I like the theory of it though. A customer of mine in MA had the condensation in the lines freeze up over the winter. His boost was uncontrollable because the wg would NOT open.

I figure if we bleed out a little, everyday, it won't build up and become a problem.

 

I think you can get solenoid valves from Redline. I've seen 12 volt normally open and 12 volt normally closed valves for refrigeration. Redline sells Truck A/C and refrigeration parts. I'm not sure it was them, though.

 

The best and easiest thing to do is find the lowest point in the intake plumbing and drill like a 1/8" hole in it.. Its small enough to now lose any boost, but effectively drains water out of the system..

 

Nah, aint going that route.

Can't have any holes in the charge system.

Now I'm lookin at linelock solenoids.

 

Suite yourself, we do it to all of our STS installs, and is also a reccomendation from STS themselves to alleviate the problem of water throwing your MAF off..

 

think i'd just put a valve like my compressor has on the bottom of it and everyonce in awhile like everyother day just drain it and close it won't take but a few seconds.

 

I think kenihemi is referring to water in the boost reference lines to the wastegate from the compressor scroll or intake manifold and you are referring to water in the intake charge pipes. These are two different things that need to be addressed.

The small hole at the lowest point in the intake charge pipes or bottom of the IC should work if you have a problem of water entering the system through the air filter from splash from the street, vehicle washing or directly from the gap between the bed and cab of a truck. Boost loss would seem to be minimal through a small enough hole to drain the water from the intake charge pipes. So far I have let any water just blow through the intake and it does not seem to be a problem but it may be more of a problem on the fbodys. Once in a while I might feel at little miss/bog like the MAF has set the AFR too rich.

The water in the boost reference lines seems to come from the exhaust through the wastegate and I am not sure how you would keep it drained but if you are willing to crawl under the truck a compressor drain could be made to work. I was never really bothered by it because my truck is in heated storage overnight but if the wastegate or boost reference line does freeze it can can cause an overboost situation which has the potential to be very harmfull to the engine. I recently changed my hot parts and now my wastegate is vented to the atmosphere and I hope that this will relieve the problem of water in the boost reference lines at the turbo.

I recently had a tee break in my boost refernce line to the wastegate and an overboost situation did definately sneak up on me and caught me by surprise. My boost guage does not come on unless I turn on my headlights (it is wired into the dimmer switch which is turning out not to be the best way to do things but I can dim them if I want to be stealthy LOL ) and I did not know what was going on for a while because I was never really going WOT so I did not have the guage on. When I did turn the guage on I saw 16 psi. of boost.

 

This is the issue, I have dealt with it first hand too many times to mention.
I have no real solution to offer though, other than just pulling the wastegate cover and cleaning out all the **** from the exhaust pipes and blowing oput your lines with dry compressed air.
Maybe add a line dryer to the system like an air compressor system???