I also used Red Locktite... but used an ARP replacement crank bolt

Bill

 

About every time I am under the hood I now reach down and try and turn my crank bolt. Not pinned. 3 or 4k miles with the last crank pulley change. Went 10 -15K on the last no problems.

 

I typed some stuff up on why the bolt backs out over on Tech a while back. Check this thread.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=crank+pulley

What it comes down to is by adding extra power and load to the crank pulley the factory interference fit can't keep the pulley from spinning. Once it starts spinning just look at your radix 6.0L as a 500lb-ft breaker bar.

 

Pinned.



Hope that takes care of the belt issues.

 

That ought to do it. Mine never backed out again after it was pinned.

 

Well the new belt didn't last very long. It got sliced and blew off in the middle of a WOT blast today. Crank pulley bolt is good and tight. Tensioner looks OK, but I think it should be changed anyway. Something has to be screwed up.

 

That bolt is stripped. Do not reuse it.

 

I used a new bolt.

I think that the belt was probably already halfway off again before the last blast when it broke. Then it probably just started slipping and got sliced down the middle because it broke before I let off the throttle. Turned it into 2 belts that wrapped around the fan.

How free-wheeling is the blower when you back off quickly? Or is there a braking action?

Any one have a favourite tensioner? I guess that the Dayco pulley will be needed for any of these:

Tensioner is from a 87-96 Ford F-Truck/E-Van 4.9L or 87-92 Bronco 4.9L

Dayco # 89222, Pulley # 89009

Napa, Gates, ACDelco # 38131

Four Seasons # 45869

Goodyear # 49233

 

Well damn. Good luck with that. I had a 3.0" pulley on mine and turning it 6500 and I had no issues after I pinned the balancer.

 

My guess is still in the idlers. Replace them all along with the tensioner. FWIW I started loosing the AC belt at WOT blasts this summer. Replacing the tensioner fixed that.