Change of plans... Swapping bump stick
06-15-2012, 11:59 PM
#82
Just found this & wanted to give a little heads up to guys who swap manifolds and use the same injectors. My injectors have around 35k on them and the seals started getting hard on the intake side. So when I swapped manifolds they felt firm, but had a few flat spots on them. Well I hooked up my boost leak checker to the snail to check gaskets seal and look for other leaks. I ended up having 2-3 leaking injectors leaking really bad. Without this test, it would have been pretty tough to have known there was an issue at all.
That said, i'm going to order new seals all around just to cover my bases. Happy boostin!
That said, i'm going to order new seals all around just to cover my bases. Happy boostin!
Last edited by foose04; 06-16-2012 at 12:04 AM.
06-16-2012, 05:21 PM
#84
I got that bad boy from a friend about 10 years ago lol, but I think if google for a boost leak tester or along those lines you can find some info. It's pretty simply though really and almost a must have tool to make sure everything's right.
06-22-2012, 12:33 PM
#87
Update, new seals are installed on the injectors and no leaks. I had to remake my custom brackets to make sure the injectors are 100% true to the manifold/rail as well, then it was good to go.
As far as performance, I'd need a dyno to tell you. Problem is I run 20psi plus daily and wheel spin is a issue. New manifold/TB = more wheel spin, so to see gains I need a sticky track or a dyno.
One thing I never read about is you do have to change your ETC scaler in your tune. I started the truck and it idled at 2k. It needs to be set to .0170 (87mm truck TB) and it idles/drives perfect.
On to other changes, v6 springs and QA1's installed. I left the front left spring alone and cut the front right 1/2 coil to make sit even and help rid the chevy lean. It seem to work great with the front left .5" high, but with me in it should be dead on.
Next up is cam when I get back in town. I been thinking about maybe strapping it down again before next weekend, not sure yet on that though.
Didn't get a picture with wheels on, but it's got about a fist size gap fender to wheel. I'd say about 1" higher then the Ground Force lowering springs.
As far as performance, I'd need a dyno to tell you. Problem is I run 20psi plus daily and wheel spin is a issue. New manifold/TB = more wheel spin, so to see gains I need a sticky track or a dyno.
One thing I never read about is you do have to change your ETC scaler in your tune. I started the truck and it idled at 2k. It needs to be set to .0170 (87mm truck TB) and it idles/drives perfect.
On to other changes, v6 springs and QA1's installed. I left the front left spring alone and cut the front right 1/2 coil to make sit even and help rid the chevy lean. It seem to work great with the front left .5" high, but with me in it should be dead on.
Next up is cam when I get back in town. I been thinking about maybe strapping it down again before next weekend, not sure yet on that though.
Didn't get a picture with wheels on, but it's got about a fist size gap fender to wheel. I'd say about 1" higher then the Ground Force lowering springs.
06-22-2012, 01:12 PM
#89
I think it's a good mod, i'd say go for it. The struts are actually pretty dang firm. I thought with v6 springs it would be bouncy, that not the case at all. It's much firmer then the lowering spring/auto zone shock combo.
Should be interested to see how it does next weekend at the track.
Should be interested to see how it does next weekend at the track.