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a/c blows hot at idle grill mounted fmic

Old Aug 17, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Default a/c blows hot at idle grill mounted fmic

Was wondering if anybody else is having issues with grill mounted intercoolers causing issues with there a/c. It blows cold as long as I stay moving but as soon as I stop game over. only reason I ask is cuz a/c guy was trying to tell me that it was my intercooler wasn't letting enough air trough..
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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Makes sense... that is why I did not mount mine there's. I figured the fan was already pulling air through tranny cooler then condensor then radiator. Some guys also have had slight overheating since the intercooler is another obstacle in front of radiator and condenser. Too hard to do in south with 100 degree days Northern guys get by easier
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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The ic infront will add some restrictions to air flow.

Also could be other things. Fan(s) not pulling enough,
dirt in the core or condenser etc.

If your ic core is not against the ac condenser u might have room to install a fan to help pull push more air?
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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I've had overheating issues in hot weather both times I had blowers on the truck and the water heat exchanger was mounted in front of the AC condenser. Never had heating issues with turbos and the A/A Intercooler mounted in the lower valance. This was with a clutch fan.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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No problems here, using electric fans.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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I have an inch or so gap on each piece but I don't have over heating issues.. Well I say that it does run considerably warmer with a/c on but normally stays at 210 ish.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 06:03 PM
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Mind you I've only had these issues sitting in traffic in AZ and TX summer heat.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 06:17 PM
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I am not a A/C guru but here is my 2cents

My truck is doing the same thing when i first start it and drive, after a short drive it starts working properly and will not blow hot at idle, and all i have is a trans cooler. A/C's are only designed to produce a 20 degree delta T and in some case's you can see higher splits closer to 30 degrees.

So if you are pulling in a 100 degree inlet air temp you may only see a 80 or maybe 70 degree outlet air temp plus the heat absorption you will get from really hot ducts in your dash about the first minute or so.

Assuming everything is clean you should monitor and see if the compressor is staying on at idle or cutting out. If it does cut out you need to read the pressures and see if the hp or lp cut out is causing the problem. If you dont have gauges you can also check the hp and lp switches with a meter to see which one is taking it out. Low pressure side should read around 45 and high side around 250 on a 100 degree day(with engine at 1500-2000 rpms)

On my truck the A/C cuts out on high pressure until the evap can cool off and start sending back a lower pressure. Remember high suction pressure (lowside) will result in high discharge (highside.)

Hope i made this understandable at least a little bit. There is a lot more to it but this should help you get started.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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Ok got home put some gauges on it and hi side head pressure is WAY high at 350psi. I did this with engine hot. Im going to do it again when its cold and see what my pressure is. The compressor does not run at idle. It will kick on for 2 sec and right back off. Im also going to put all the covers back on and see if forcing the air through the condenser helps aswell. Im leery of it being an airflow issue because it will do it regardless of engine temp. My bet is its just overfilled.
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 08:43 PM
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What was your low side pressure?
ambient temp?
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