Yes, thats exactly what i'm saying 0_0

 

Atomic you are a real engineer, is it possible to get something to create enough hertz to get the MAF to work and then no error reported on HPT so you can start the truck with no MAF plugged in?

I’m bored at work entertain me plz

 

Im in central Texas, what’s emissions testing?! lol

 

I really appreciate all the knowledge you guys are dropping on me. That’s why I come here. I found a tuner that does SD. I’ll be getting the sensors ordered. Huron speed says 8-10 weeks on a new order so I’m trying to get all this stuff lined out by then. So efisource LS1 style 3 bar MAP, IAT sensor and 3bar OS for HPT? That should be all the sensors/software I’ll need for boost? For the IAT do you piggyback off of the MAF pigtail or do I have to run new wiring? I saw a thread were they spliced into the MAF wires for the remote IAT.

 

Sounds like a plan! I splice into the tan and black on that MAF harness

 

Since he got tired of your stuff, try my answer on for size. If you don't fail the MAF, it won't run In SD. If you use a frequency generator to simulate a MAF signal, the PCM will think that your engine is always using only a steady amount of air, the amount determined by the frequency. If you don't fail the MAF, it won't run in SD. A better way to simulate a MAF signal would be to leave it in place and connected, that way the frequency would represent the true airflow, since it won't run in SD without the MAF failed. So you can either run it in SD and have a MAF code, or leave the MAF enabled to show no code, because it won't run in SD without the MAF failed.

 

do I leave the MAF in place so it can still
read IAT as well or do I take remove it from the intake tube?

 

Remove it completely, only keep the remote IAT

 

10-4 thanks. I was 15 minutes until I got off work but I was mowing lawns after work so busy. I understand now though