Bigger Whipple and intercooler upgrade
Feb 8, 2007 | 03:11 AM
#21
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Alabama
I really appriciate the info. I have a tbi whipple kit with the autorotor OA3150 compressor (kenne bell 1.5L). My goal is to make close to 500 hp. I have been trying to decide between the HT383 or a 350 with AFR Eliminators to put this on. I am guessing that this compressor would only make about 5 lbs. on the 383 (using 212/218 @.050 cam). Kenne bell can supply me with a 2.3L compressor that would be more suited to the 383. Judging by your numbers, I might be able to get close to this with my current compressor. Thanks again for the info. You have an awsome project going on. Best of luck with it.
Feb 21, 2007 | 01:35 AM
#22
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 3
From: 33.91° -117.48°
I've been focusing on the compressor bracket and bypass for the last two week. A new bypass valve with the actuator on the oposite side had to be ordered from Whipple - the one from the 1.6L kit just wouldn't work the way I needed it to. I had to weld in a 1.5" hose fitting for the bypass. There was a large flat area on the discharge assembly that I left open for this tube.
The bypass tube is just some mandrel-bent 16-guage 1.5"OD steel tubing. I had to make a 0-radius elbow in it for clearance reasons. It's not very pretty to look at but should work fine.
The support structure that will hold the intercooler over the intake is also nearly finished. The front support for it will extend to available threaded holes on the marine intake manifold that do not also exist on the stock manifold. I will have to make those with the support frame on the truck.
The Be-Cool radiator is here, fans are still backordered. All the -12AN hose and fittings for the intercooler are here so I'll probaly tackle that this weekend. I'm fairly sure there is a clearance problem between the brake reservior and the flange the throttle body is mounted to based on some measurements I took, I'll have to look into that. The only other challenge I see is getting a 4" tube from the throttle body on the driver side to the MAF and filter on the passenger side. Running it right over the distributor is looking like the best option so far, there is an A/C vapor line right there to deal with. I'll post up some more as it progresses. There's no rush to this.
The bypass tube is just some mandrel-bent 16-guage 1.5"OD steel tubing. I had to make a 0-radius elbow in it for clearance reasons. It's not very pretty to look at but should work fine.
The support structure that will hold the intercooler over the intake is also nearly finished. The front support for it will extend to available threaded holes on the marine intake manifold that do not also exist on the stock manifold. I will have to make those with the support frame on the truck.
The Be-Cool radiator is here, fans are still backordered. All the -12AN hose and fittings for the intercooler are here so I'll probaly tackle that this weekend. I'm fairly sure there is a clearance problem between the brake reservior and the flange the throttle body is mounted to based on some measurements I took, I'll have to look into that. The only other challenge I see is getting a 4" tube from the throttle body on the driver side to the MAF and filter on the passenger side. Running it right over the distributor is looking like the best option so far, there is an A/C vapor line right there to deal with. I'll post up some more as it progresses. There's no rush to this.
Feb 21, 2007 | 08:33 PM
#24
Great work! That aluminum can be tricky to weld, lots of amperage too. I usually pre-heat the thick pieces with propane to get them ready. Looks like you have it dialed in, if you need any help let me know.
Feb 25, 2007 | 08:43 PM
#25
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 3
From: 33.91° -117.48°
Update: Feb 25:
Progress Update:
- The master cylinder is going to need to move forward about 1.5" so the throttle body clears. I am going to spin an aluminum slug to make a spacer and then lengthen the pin inside to get what I need.
- I don't have the cold air intake tube quite figured out yet. On the driver side I'v got fuel line and the A/C vapor hose running through the area I am interested in using. I am still going to try to pass it right over the distributor to use that space. 4" tubing is huge. It's hard to find room for it.
- I have little tabs on the bottom of the intercooler to hold it to the steel frame. I have not yet drilled the holes for the bolts that will hold it.
- All coolant hose will be 3/4" with -12AN flare connections at the intercooler for easy removal. The Be-Cool radiator is not installed yet, I need some 18mm fittings for the trans cooler lines. Also, the Flex-a-Lite 294 fans are not here yet.
- I will be eliminating the Vortec CPI injection connector and splicing on wires to go straight to the injectors without the fat connector in between. The connector installed currently is too tall.
- Coil is being relocated to the intercooler support bracket as is the EVAP purge solenoid.
- IAT is already installed in a bung right before the manifold.
Progress Update:
- The master cylinder is going to need to move forward about 1.5" so the throttle body clears. I am going to spin an aluminum slug to make a spacer and then lengthen the pin inside to get what I need.
- I don't have the cold air intake tube quite figured out yet. On the driver side I'v got fuel line and the A/C vapor hose running through the area I am interested in using. I am still going to try to pass it right over the distributor to use that space. 4" tubing is huge. It's hard to find room for it.
- I have little tabs on the bottom of the intercooler to hold it to the steel frame. I have not yet drilled the holes for the bolts that will hold it.
- All coolant hose will be 3/4" with -12AN flare connections at the intercooler for easy removal. The Be-Cool radiator is not installed yet, I need some 18mm fittings for the trans cooler lines. Also, the Flex-a-Lite 294 fans are not here yet.
- I will be eliminating the Vortec CPI injection connector and splicing on wires to go straight to the injectors without the fat connector in between. The connector installed currently is too tall.
- Coil is being relocated to the intercooler support bracket as is the EVAP purge solenoid.
- IAT is already installed in a bung right before the manifold.
Mar 30, 2007 | 01:23 AM
#28
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 3
From: 33.91° -117.48°
The new blower is on! Well, sort of....
The following things are still not installed:
- Intercooler plumbing
- Intercooler reservoir
- Intercooler pump
- Intercooler radiator
- a proper cold air intake
- MAF Sensor
- EVAP purge solenoid
- EGR
- PCV
- Crankcase breather tube
At 8psi (2.7/8" pulley) with absolutely no intercooling fluid I am getting ZERO detonation. Intake air temperatures at WOT are actually 30 degrees, on average LOWER than the 1.6L Whipple was at only 5psi given similar ambients. This thing even sucks engine bay air right now. I have no explanation for how this is possible, the thing burns the tires all the way through first and into second on any surface. I haven't made modifications to the alternator support bracket yet to support an additional idler pulley. The extra pulley will prevent the belt from contacting the tensioner housing on decelleration. I have a complete second bracket and an assortment of idlers already. I think I've got it figured out - just need to do it. The belt currently installed is a 113.0" Goodyear Gatorback, it is not slipping at all.
Here's what I've been running since the weekend:
Below is the 4" diameter cold air tube that I made with the relief to clear the windshield wiper motor. This is installed but it's a POS. It is too restricted and it's actually rattling against the wiper motor. The rubber cobra-head elbow on top of the intake is exposed to enough vacuum at WOT that it distorts. It's made of 1/4" thick heavy rubber. This whole cold air setup sucks, I am going to try something different. The Throttle Body will receive a fabricated metal hat and the cold air tube will split from a single 4" tube to a pair of 3" tubes to snake up on each side of the throttle cables to the hat. Each tube will have a soft coupler at that point. These will have no clearance problems with the firewall or the windshield wiper motor. The 4" side of this tube will emerge on the passenger side between the intercooler support frame and the transmission dipstick as it does now but it will make a sharp bend forward where it will attach with 4"-3.75" silcone reducer couplings to and from the Gen-III MAF back to a 4" K&N filter that points toward the passenger side fully supported by the intercooler frame. No flexible tubing will be needed. The filter will be exposed to hot engine bay air but with an intercooler this overkilled it's not a problem. It is loud right now with the throttle wide open but doesn't make its presence known at light throttle at all.
When the intercooler is finished I will likely be stepping up to the 2.625" pulley for 10psi. This does appear that it will require larger injectors.
This weekend the Be-Cool radiator and Flex-a-Lite 294 6000CFM fans are going on. I'm going to install the intercooler radiator at the same time. The supercharger is probably coming off the weekend after that to redesign the cold-air tubing. All the other odds and ends should be cleaned up around then too.
The following things are still not installed:
- Intercooler plumbing
- Intercooler reservoir
- Intercooler pump
- Intercooler radiator
- a proper cold air intake
- MAF Sensor
- EVAP purge solenoid
- EGR
- PCV
- Crankcase breather tube
At 8psi (2.7/8" pulley) with absolutely no intercooling fluid I am getting ZERO detonation. Intake air temperatures at WOT are actually 30 degrees, on average LOWER than the 1.6L Whipple was at only 5psi given similar ambients. This thing even sucks engine bay air right now. I have no explanation for how this is possible, the thing burns the tires all the way through first and into second on any surface. I haven't made modifications to the alternator support bracket yet to support an additional idler pulley. The extra pulley will prevent the belt from contacting the tensioner housing on decelleration. I have a complete second bracket and an assortment of idlers already. I think I've got it figured out - just need to do it. The belt currently installed is a 113.0" Goodyear Gatorback, it is not slipping at all.
Here's what I've been running since the weekend:
Below is the 4" diameter cold air tube that I made with the relief to clear the windshield wiper motor. This is installed but it's a POS. It is too restricted and it's actually rattling against the wiper motor. The rubber cobra-head elbow on top of the intake is exposed to enough vacuum at WOT that it distorts. It's made of 1/4" thick heavy rubber. This whole cold air setup sucks, I am going to try something different. The Throttle Body will receive a fabricated metal hat and the cold air tube will split from a single 4" tube to a pair of 3" tubes to snake up on each side of the throttle cables to the hat. Each tube will have a soft coupler at that point. These will have no clearance problems with the firewall or the windshield wiper motor. The 4" side of this tube will emerge on the passenger side between the intercooler support frame and the transmission dipstick as it does now but it will make a sharp bend forward where it will attach with 4"-3.75" silcone reducer couplings to and from the Gen-III MAF back to a 4" K&N filter that points toward the passenger side fully supported by the intercooler frame. No flexible tubing will be needed. The filter will be exposed to hot engine bay air but with an intercooler this overkilled it's not a problem. It is loud right now with the throttle wide open but doesn't make its presence known at light throttle at all.
When the intercooler is finished I will likely be stepping up to the 2.625" pulley for 10psi. This does appear that it will require larger injectors.
This weekend the Be-Cool radiator and Flex-a-Lite 294 6000CFM fans are going on. I'm going to install the intercooler radiator at the same time. The supercharger is probably coming off the weekend after that to redesign the cold-air tubing. All the other odds and ends should be cleaned up around then too.
Last edited by James B.; Mar 30, 2007 at 01:42 AM.
