Joe, I'm not worried bout messin them up, so much as doin em up right.

Yes, Vinci sells nice stuff. Roger is awesome, & the other Roger (AKlow) loves their stuff. Anyway, if I didn't already have my Comp 1.75s, I'd have sprung the the hefty amt. fot the VHP / Crane adjustment rockers. IIRC, a pain to set up, but when they're done, they're supposed to be the Cat's Meow.

I see you got your sense of humor back. Glad u have some sense of some kind.

Of couse, your present situation, maybe it's cents.


Also, anybody know the p/n from GM for those hose clamps. When workin yesterday, I heard metal hit the floor. Come to find out, the clamp had snapped in 2.

Gives me another item to pick up from dlr. when I get my O-ring...again.

I almost thought of gettin some keepers & throw in my toolbox, just for spares. You never know.

 

go to the junkyard, pick ya out a nice wrecked truck and tell them you want the hose clamps, valve covers, and some valve locks . there, no more worrying.. only bad part is yes you still have to go get a new o-ring and lose it again..

 

Good one, Mike.

I have somethin I'm really concerned about. My stock bolt is 110 mm long. Is it true I need a bolt 120 mm to get harmonic started?
I sure don't wanna buy the longer ARP just to use for this use, altho I could, I was hoping for a cheaper alternative than a $25-30 ARP. Otherwise, had i known this, I mighta just gotten the ARP even tho it's 5x as much as a TQ-yield stocker. Ideas?

A big part of the reason this concerns me is I've got to get that timing seal on square w/o the special J-tools. I was just gonna try a pc. of wood to press against seal, eye it up & hope for the best.

Then, eye up my timing cover to pan & again hope it stays square.

Anyone see a problem w/. any of these ideas or have they done it?

 

You'll destroy the crank with a 110mm bolt

 

Where did u get your 120mm setup from?

I wanna get back to workin on my truck after it just sat over the last 3-4 days. Once springs are done, & rockers, I'll be lookin fwd. to buttoning the timing cover up & installing balancer, so I can throw it all back together.

 

just joking.

110mm is fine.

I used a M16x2.0x110 grade 10.8 bolt from NAPA. It cost like $8 or something like that.

The most important thing is to make sure the balancer is on straight. If you experience any increase in resistance to turning the crank bolt immediately stop and back it out.

 

Dick!

I forgot about the bolt from NAPA. Couldn't I just use an installer, wouldn't it be the same?

 

I used a piece of wood and hammer to get it started

 

what installer are you talking about?

I baked my balancer like a cake @ 250 or 300 degrees for 20 minutes. Some people have said that the balancer will just slide onto the crank fully using this method, but not for me. It went on a bit and it was good enough to get the bolt in there and crank it down.

 

You knew I meant I wanted to use a block of wood (since I don't think I have a suitable chunk of metal) to center the seal,, right?

I mean the harmonic installer I rented.
I thought baking a balancer creates issues w/. the elastomer?