any fabricators here want to build my TT setup?
#1
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From: Morristown, Tn
Not sure where the best place to put this is, but I see a lot of vendor and member projects in here so I thought it would be okay.
Here's the deal. I've collected most of the parts for my Denali 6.0 TT project. My original intention was to have the truck down for a couple of weeks while setting this up. My thought was that I would just tack a weld here and there to hold things together as I went, then gently pull it back off and take it to my local welder to have him go over it while I put the truck back together in the meantime (he stays 2-3 weeks behind). Once the stuff got done, I could then wrap the exhaust stuff and put it on permanently in a day or 2, then figure out the intercooler piping (which I should be able to do myself using a universal pipe kit and chop saw) and then handle the tune and fuel, driving gingerly in the meantime if need be.
But, not only am I not a skilled fabricator/welder, but I don't really have as much time as I thought I might to try and put this together. After seeing some of the work turned out by members and vendors on this forum, I thought I might give it a shot. Maybe someone that does decent work wants to make a few bucks on the side and save me some headache?
I already have my twin t4 sized turbos. I have t4 inlet flanges and gaskets. I have SS flanges for both manifold outlets. I want to use the stock truck manifolds flipped upside down on both sides, and put both turbos just maybe 4-6" off of them, but I would not be opposed to putting them both on the passenger side if it worked out better that way.
I have twin wastegates with inlet/outlet flanges and gaskets already installed, and appropriate sized SS pipe to dump them into the downpipes. I have 2.5 and 3" mandrel bent aluminized exhaust pipe for the adaptor tubes and downpipes. I have vband flanges and clamps for the downpipes.
I have my turbo oil inlet and outlet flanges as well as oil supply lines. My plan is to mount the turbos in such a way so I can run the drain tubes into the valve covers to avoid dropping the oilpan...I have appropriate fittings and a spare set of valve covers to do this.
My truck has the 05+ e-fans which will make placement and IC piping easier. I planned to run my drivers side downpipe between the steering column and the frame rail, bending the 2 brake lines as necessary for clearance. I was unsure what I'd do about the engine wiring harness which was smack dab in the way, other than insulating it against the heat. The passenger side looked like it'd be easy, other than the fact that I can't get my dipstick tube out of the block, nor can I get the EGR tube off the manifold.
I could ship all my parts to a fabricator for fitment into a stock truck enginebay and then they could send it all back to me ready to bolt on.
If I'm gonna get quotes above $1000 then I'll probably just try to do this myself and make some time...but my work gets busy starting in September and I'd like to be up and running before winter.
Anyone interested can contact me via PM or email at kevin@rotaryresurrection.com.
Here's the deal. I've collected most of the parts for my Denali 6.0 TT project. My original intention was to have the truck down for a couple of weeks while setting this up. My thought was that I would just tack a weld here and there to hold things together as I went, then gently pull it back off and take it to my local welder to have him go over it while I put the truck back together in the meantime (he stays 2-3 weeks behind). Once the stuff got done, I could then wrap the exhaust stuff and put it on permanently in a day or 2, then figure out the intercooler piping (which I should be able to do myself using a universal pipe kit and chop saw) and then handle the tune and fuel, driving gingerly in the meantime if need be.
But, not only am I not a skilled fabricator/welder, but I don't really have as much time as I thought I might to try and put this together. After seeing some of the work turned out by members and vendors on this forum, I thought I might give it a shot. Maybe someone that does decent work wants to make a few bucks on the side and save me some headache?
I already have my twin t4 sized turbos. I have t4 inlet flanges and gaskets. I have SS flanges for both manifold outlets. I want to use the stock truck manifolds flipped upside down on both sides, and put both turbos just maybe 4-6" off of them, but I would not be opposed to putting them both on the passenger side if it worked out better that way.
I have twin wastegates with inlet/outlet flanges and gaskets already installed, and appropriate sized SS pipe to dump them into the downpipes. I have 2.5 and 3" mandrel bent aluminized exhaust pipe for the adaptor tubes and downpipes. I have vband flanges and clamps for the downpipes.
I have my turbo oil inlet and outlet flanges as well as oil supply lines. My plan is to mount the turbos in such a way so I can run the drain tubes into the valve covers to avoid dropping the oilpan...I have appropriate fittings and a spare set of valve covers to do this.
My truck has the 05+ e-fans which will make placement and IC piping easier. I planned to run my drivers side downpipe between the steering column and the frame rail, bending the 2 brake lines as necessary for clearance. I was unsure what I'd do about the engine wiring harness which was smack dab in the way, other than insulating it against the heat. The passenger side looked like it'd be easy, other than the fact that I can't get my dipstick tube out of the block, nor can I get the EGR tube off the manifold.
I could ship all my parts to a fabricator for fitment into a stock truck enginebay and then they could send it all back to me ready to bolt on.
If I'm gonna get quotes above $1000 then I'll probably just try to do this myself and make some time...but my work gets busy starting in September and I'd like to be up and running before winter.
Anyone interested can contact me via PM or email at kevin@rotaryresurrection.com.
#3
Slowhawk is completely correct, lots of time, lots of working fitting everthing, and then you have to weld it out. And with a holding fixture ( more money) the tubing will move around a little throwing of other parts.
Doesn't your vehicle have dual air condition.? IF so; make sure whom ever does your fittments is using the same platform. Other wise it may fit theirs and not yours.
You are better off finding some one close so you can keep a eye on your stuff. Just sending some one a bunch parts with a hope they return, hmmm tough one.
Good luck with your project.
Rick
Doesn't your vehicle have dual air condition.? IF so; make sure whom ever does your fittments is using the same platform. Other wise it may fit theirs and not yours.
You are better off finding some one close so you can keep a eye on your stuff. Just sending some one a bunch parts with a hope they return, hmmm tough one.
Good luck with your project.
Rick
#5
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From: Morristown, Tn
3-4k just for 2) 6" adaptor pipes and 2) downpipes with 2) wastegate tubes in between? God damn, I am in the wrong business. 
To my knowledge there are no twin kits on the market; certainly none for $3-4k which is what i plan to have in this. So far I am around $1700 with all of my parts except the IC piping and bov, and of course fuel/tune (which never comes with $4-5k kits anyway).

To my knowledge there are no twin kits on the market; certainly none for $3-4k which is what i plan to have in this. So far I am around $1700 with all of my parts except the IC piping and bov, and of course fuel/tune (which never comes with $4-5k kits anyway).
#6
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From: Morristown, Tn
On a side note, for those considering buying some, I am pretty disappointed with the manifold outlet flanges I got from stainless works (vendor on the right of the screen), especially considering the $100 price tag for the pair.
1) I called and emailed for a whole week and got no response; finally got lucky and got ahold of someone the following week. Apparently "some" of the employees got the entire july 4 WEEK off, and those who didn't, did not man the phone or email lines.
2) I asked how these flanges seal to the stock manifolds; using the stock o-ring, or a gasket? They said yes, using the stock o-ring. Well, the flanges show up, and there's no bevel cut into them for the o-ring to sit inside. IN other words, the o-ring is just supposed to slide in between and pretty well get smashed. Also there's no good way to ensure that the o-ring stays centered during assembly since there is no bevel to hold it in place.
3) They are "heavy duty" flanges but are no thicker than the stock flanges.
4) most pipe weld flanges you buy these days have a bevel cut into one side for a slip fit of the pipe. These do not. For the money, I kinda expected that level of quality.
After gettng these in hand, I find myself wondering why I didnt just hit a junkyard and cut off 2 stock flanges with a little pipe already there to start welding from...the flange thickness is the same from what I can tell. The stock flanges have a bevel for the o-ring to lay in for easier install where these do not. And I could have gotten by for about half price.
ON the other hand, all the flanges I bought from ATP turbo are top notch, and most of them have the bevel for welding in pipes.
1) I called and emailed for a whole week and got no response; finally got lucky and got ahold of someone the following week. Apparently "some" of the employees got the entire july 4 WEEK off, and those who didn't, did not man the phone or email lines.
2) I asked how these flanges seal to the stock manifolds; using the stock o-ring, or a gasket? They said yes, using the stock o-ring. Well, the flanges show up, and there's no bevel cut into them for the o-ring to sit inside. IN other words, the o-ring is just supposed to slide in between and pretty well get smashed. Also there's no good way to ensure that the o-ring stays centered during assembly since there is no bevel to hold it in place.
3) They are "heavy duty" flanges but are no thicker than the stock flanges.
4) most pipe weld flanges you buy these days have a bevel cut into one side for a slip fit of the pipe. These do not. For the money, I kinda expected that level of quality.
After gettng these in hand, I find myself wondering why I didnt just hit a junkyard and cut off 2 stock flanges with a little pipe already there to start welding from...the flange thickness is the same from what I can tell. The stock flanges have a bevel for the o-ring to lay in for easier install where these do not. And I could have gotten by for about half price.
ON the other hand, all the flanges I bought from ATP turbo are top notch, and most of them have the bevel for welding in pipes.
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; Jul 26, 2007 at 10:15 PM.
#7
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
3-4k just for 2) 6" adaptor pipes and 2) downpipes with 2) wastegate tubes in between? God damn, I am in the wrong business. 
To my knowledge there are no twin kits on the market; certainly none for $3-4k which is what i plan to have in this. So far I am around $1700 with all of my parts except the IC piping and bov, and of course fuel/tune (which never comes with $4-5k kits anyway).

To my knowledge there are no twin kits on the market; certainly none for $3-4k which is what i plan to have in this. So far I am around $1700 with all of my parts except the IC piping and bov, and of course fuel/tune (which never comes with $4-5k kits anyway).
You are paying for someones time. If you started to lay this out, and log all the time you have spent looking, buying, and planning. Then keep track of the time you have in building these parts. And installing them.
3-4 for a twin set up would be cheap.
You are correct there no kits on the market for that cheap.
Again good luck with your project.
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#8
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I fully understand that. I run my own business building rotary engines...I have a good idea about labor and time. I've been successful for 8 years because I saw fit to charge only what I felt was necessary for the work I do, and my rates turn out to be about 25-40% below industry standard. Therefore I always have as much work as I want and the business has been good to me and my family.
I was expecting to pay as much as a grand for the fab work. Someone with a truck to fabricate on could take the parts I have and put it together in about 3 or 4 days time max. I'm not looking for a complete install...just 4 pipes...and I already have the mandrel bends to make the pipes out of, they simply need cut and welded. And, in my opinion, a grand is awfully good money for a few days' worth of work with no materials required (other than a chop saw and some weld rods).
Maybe I just have an overly simplistic view of life, though.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like this was a bad idea.
I was expecting to pay as much as a grand for the fab work. Someone with a truck to fabricate on could take the parts I have and put it together in about 3 or 4 days time max. I'm not looking for a complete install...just 4 pipes...and I already have the mandrel bends to make the pipes out of, they simply need cut and welded. And, in my opinion, a grand is awfully good money for a few days' worth of work with no materials required (other than a chop saw and some weld rods).
Maybe I just have an overly simplistic view of life, though.
Thanks for the replies. Looks like this was a bad idea.
#9
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
3-4k just for 2) 6" adaptor pipes and 2) downpipes with 2) wastegate tubes in between? God damn, I am in the wrong business. 

Having just finished fabbing my own rear mount kit... I spent $1k alone on tubing. I've probably got 100-150 man hours in it. Let's see, 10 40lb bottles of 25/75, 4 rolls of T56, countless blades and grinding wheels.
Yes, a rear mount kit is way more complicated, but I had wide open spaces to fit my pipes into. You want two 6" adapter pipes, 2 downpipes, and 2 wg fittings, so I assume you're willing to cut, move, remove accessories and other engine bay fitments to make that work... If not, then multiply the hours estimate in your head by 4 or 6.
As you freely admit, you aren't a skilled fabricator/welder (and neither am I!! lol) so maybe you are under-estimating the work and time involved. You just heard from two well known, skilled and experienced fabricators and both told you the same thing... maybe they are not the ones mistaken?
#10
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From: Morristown, Tn
don't get me wrong...I've done several custom turbo setups on rx7s...but there are plenty of prefab turbo manifolds for that application for a couple hundred bucks. I can cut the pipes to fit, I just can't make the actual welds and have them look nice and hold up as well as I'd like...which is the only reason I was seeking outside help.
I know there is a LOT of work in fabbing a turbo setup. But, by the same token, it's not rocket science either.
I guess I'll just move ahead with my previous plans, and get a local welder to do that part of the work for me.
Oh, and I don't have plans to move anything...perhaps adjust a brake line or a heater hose here or there. I will remove the EGR and probably have to come up with some custom plugwires, but otherwise the enginebay will be pretty much stock.
I'm sure someone somewhere has already done a custom twin setup in a truck enginebay without relocating anything...there is a fair amount of room to work with compared to a lot of other cars that get turbos, like camaros, vettes, 350z's, etc.
I know there is a LOT of work in fabbing a turbo setup. But, by the same token, it's not rocket science either.
I guess I'll just move ahead with my previous plans, and get a local welder to do that part of the work for me.
Oh, and I don't have plans to move anything...perhaps adjust a brake line or a heater hose here or there. I will remove the EGR and probably have to come up with some custom plugwires, but otherwise the enginebay will be pretty much stock.
I'm sure someone somewhere has already done a custom twin setup in a truck enginebay without relocating anything...there is a fair amount of room to work with compared to a lot of other cars that get turbos, like camaros, vettes, 350z's, etc.


