The tank is almost the same as the standard tank in that area. But wider at the bottom for the core to fit.

 

any huge after thanksgiving group buy special????

 

Might be doable.

 

Im a little confuse about this. Able to use for turbo. What if Im running with air to air intercooler. Then those one what will do?

 

Nothing,
its for an air to water intercooler.

 

I was talk about turbo run with air to air intercooler. so you have water intercooler to run both? DO i need for that. TO make turbo cool down?

 

NO, you either are running an AIR to AIR Intercooler or a AIR to WATER intercooler.

 

Oh, my bad. I thought they run two intercooler thats why I wonder how its work if I run air to air with big intercooler then run other small intercooler for water. I meant it. Sorry.

 

I can attest to using the factory a/c setup. I've been running a much simpler setup for about 2 years now with great success. I was working on building a stand alone system for vehicles, but I was hindered by supplier issues and more importantly weight. I just don't think its feasable to carry around another cooling system when you already have the factory one right there.

Anyway, I borrowed the idea from a guy on here named Duner. I'm not sure if he hangs around much anymore, but nevertheless it works. The downside is you lose your heater, but in the summer who really cares. I never use my heater here anyway, so I use the setup year round. Bascially you have an a2w IC, with a pump and everything, and then you route the coolant lines to the heater core. When you turn on your a/c, you set the **** to heat. The fan then blows the air across the evap coil onto the heater coil, thus pulling heat out of the water. It takes longer to cool off the cab, but like Rick said, below ambient IAT's ALL DAY LONG! Even under boost. At idle in the middle of the summer (+100* ambiet), while stuck in traffic, IAT's would be a little below ambient. Step on the gas to go, and they drop instantly.

At the end of a 1/4mi run they start to climb, but that probably had to do with my lack of reservoir capacity. I never played with pump speed, but I'm sure there's more to be had there as well. An evap coil submerged in water would be even more effective IMO, but I worry about what it'll do to the in cab temperatures too. You might have to play with the orifice size and the amount of refrigerant. A variable orifice for sever conditions would probably be the best way to go.

I know that with no reservior, and driving it really hard, like a full 1/4mi it would be blowing luke warm air. Not hot, but not cold either. I've never measured the air temp across the heater core though, just the IAT's.

It's really quite interesting, because as soon as you get into boost the IAT's drop further from where they were while cruising. With meth and chilled water, on a 90* day, my IAT's were 50* at the begining of a run and ~65* at the end. That's with 10-12psi on a 4.8. I shut the a/c off in stagging too, since the IC and water will stay cold for quite awhile depsite the a/c running.

I think I'm going to due something similar to my Ty since the IC sits on top of the damned engine.

 

The way this system is set up you will not loose your heater. But you could loop the cooling water back to the heater core to try and gain more cooling from your example. The cabs temps is very cold, the system is a post system.
The hottest day here was only around 80' so I never got to test the system under summer heat conditions, where the AC would work even better. Insulating the ic core and the coolant tank would help greatly I am sure. I had seem simular temps rises.
The best deal I think would be have as large of an air to water intercooler as possible, keep it out of the engine so mount it low, have all pressure pipes insulated. This will yeild the best results, and outside heat temp effects would be kept to a min.