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2012 Tahoe with turbo not making power—Cam issue

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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:01 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by pmoore4321
If I'm right, and I do mean "if", it seems like a fairly simple fix. Just roll the cam back one tooth. I would still verify with a wheel, but I wouldn't swap the cam.
Apparently we have many “engine builders” that can cam swap around here but won’t degree cams. I’ll try that route first and see if the detonation continues.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:34 PM
  #52  
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What model number valve springs are you running?
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 2boosted
Do you like the new cam or the old one better? Drive ability wise.
Well I like them both. They each had their own pros and very little cons. The 212/212-112 was awesome around town stop light to stop light and still made good power up top too. After a couple seasons I wanted more power for the drag strip without putting a bigger turbo on so I switched to the 228/230 and low end suffered some but I gained what I wanted up top. The car is more track focused now but I still drive it weekly to work or to the store and the loss of low end doesn’t really bother me any more. The 212/212 is now in my 86 c30 6.0 80e tow rig and it makes a really fun driver out of a heavy truck. So for me it was all about the purpose of the vehicle for cam selection. I personally think that the cam you have should work great for your setup and it should make power from 2000 on up. If it doesnt make power till 4500 its either installed wrong or you another issue boost leak, transmission issue, or poor tune.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 07:59 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by 94heritage
Well I like them both. They each had their own pros and very little cons. The 212/212-112 was awesome around town stop light to stop light and still made good power up top too. After a couple seasons I wanted more power for the drag strip without putting a bigger turbo on so I switched to the 228/230 and low end suffered some but I gained what I wanted up top. The car is more track focused now but I still drive it weekly to work or to the store and the loss of low end doesn’t really bother me any more. The 212/212 is now in my 86 c30 6.0 80e tow rig and it makes a really fun driver out of a heavy truck. So for me it was all about the purpose of the vehicle for cam selection. I personally think that the cam you have should work great for your setup and it should make power from 2000 on up. If it doesnt make power till 4500 its either installed wrong or you another issue boost leak, transmission issue, or poor tune.
100% agree. I'm running a 210/230 now and wouldn't change it.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 94heritage
Well I like them both. They each had their own pros and very little cons. The 212/212-112 was awesome around town stop light to stop light and still made good power up top too. After a couple seasons I wanted more power for the drag strip without putting a bigger turbo on so I switched to the 228/230 and low end suffered some but I gained what I wanted up top. The car is more track focused now but I still drive it weekly to work or to the store and the loss of low end doesn’t really bother me any more. The 212/212 is now in my 86 c30 6.0 80e tow rig and it makes a really fun driver out of a heavy truck. So for me it was all about the purpose of the vehicle for cam selection. I personally think that the cam you have should work great for your setup and it should make power from 2000 on up. If it doesnt make power till 4500 its either installed wrong or you another issue boost leak, transmission issue, or poor tune.
well, the previously mentioned issue with the cam being over advanced would greatly effect the top end rpm power. So, I’ll get it degreed first. I do like the punch of the this cam, and if I can get 5 more degrees of timing out of it by redegreeing the cam, I think I’ll be happy.
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 09:38 PM
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Is the engine hard to start? Maybe check the cranking compression first before tear down?
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Old Apr 16, 2020 | 06:29 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by pmoore4321
Is the engine hard to start? Maybe check the cranking compression first before tear down?
It starts and runs fine. Being off a tooth in this situation wouldn’t cause too many issues given the truck is designed to run at that advanced setting down low previously on the vvt cam.
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 01:53 PM
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Have you checked the plugs and done a compression test yet?

Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression...
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Old Apr 17, 2020 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
Have you checked the plugs and done a compression test yet?

Air, Fuel, Spark, Compression...
Gotta get the injectors in there and get the fuel delivery right. If we still have an issue, we’ll move more to mechanical.
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 08:22 PM
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Default Injectors in and no change

So I put some 72lb fic injectors in and got everything street tuned. The truck is much happier and fuel is great. Wot is 50% duty cycle. The truck feels happier.
We still can’t get any more than 8 degrees of timing at max torque. We can audible knock anything over 9.5 degrees and have small knock retard at 9 degrees.
It looks like this cam is either anemic, or over advanced. Either way, I’m getting way too much cylinder pressure too early. My bet is it’s over advanced.

new cam time
I hope this helps anyone that’s having issues with low timing on a set up that should make more...but only if you installed a cam that was supposed to be vvt and turns out it wasn’t.
the shop likely installed it exactly like a vvt cam should be but it wasn’t vvt. That gets you in the advanced cam position the entire rpm band. It’s great down low, but as soon as it normally would rotate to a retard position, it stays advanced. Causing the high cylinder pressure and thus...low timing at peak torque. If it was a vvt cam, the regarding of the cam during the peak torque would allow the cam to process more air and exhaust causing the cylinder pressure to go down.
Am I wrong?
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