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2012 Tahoe with turbo not making power—Cam issue

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Old 04-12-2020, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Last Call
The stock LSA injectors should take you to 500rwhp with 58 psi fuel pressure and 11.5 AFR, maybe a little further depending on max RPM.

I would make sure you are not losing boost somewhere, the power essentially flat lines at 4700 rpm, it should continue with an upward slope throughout RPM range.
I am seeing max 53 psi of fuel pressure with this nnbs returnless system.
Old 04-12-2020, 06:17 PM
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There are guys in here much more knowledgeable than me. I wonder if you have something mechanical like broken valve springs. I had broken springs once and the darn thing fell in its face like that.
Old 04-12-2020, 06:57 PM
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I appreciate the idea. when I had the dod delete done I have pac 1219x springs installed with the cam. It could be a loose spring, but I don’t think it’s too likely with my symptoms.
im gonna throw some injectors in there and see what happens.
I’ll update maybe end of this week
Old 04-15-2020, 03:24 AM
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If you're running an LMG, that engine came with DOD and VVT. It sounds like your mechanic installed a cam ground on a non-VVT core. The LMG/L99/L94 engines park the cam 8.5 cam degrees advanced. You said your cam is ground with +4 degrees of advance. I'm not 100% sure, but your cam could be advanced as much as 12.5 degrees and I believe this would cause major issues syncing with the PCM and loss of power. It's the equivalent of 1.5 cam sprocket teeth (360 / 44 teeth = 8.18 degrees each tooth). I don't think installing an LS3 fixed cam sprocket would work either if they have the indexing hole in the same location. Post a pic of your cam card.

Last edited by pmoore4321; 04-15-2020 at 04:47 AM.
Old 04-15-2020, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by pmoore4321
If you're running an LMG, that engine came with DOD and VVT. It sounds like your mechanic installed a cam ground on a non-VVT core. The LMG/L99/L94 engines park the cam 8.5 cam degrees advanced. You said your cam is ground with +4 degrees of advance. I'm not 100% sure, but your cam could be advanced as much as 12.5 degrees and I believe this would cause major issues syncing with the PCM and loss of power. It's the equivalent of 1.5 cam sprocket teeth (360 / 44 teeth = 8.18 degrees each tooth). I don't think installing an LS3 fixed cam sprocket would work either if they have the indexing hole in the same location. Post a pic of your cam card.
It’s a 2012.
thats correct on the cam. It didnt get ground with a vvt core like I thought originally. However, the truck isles and drives normally and I also had the cam installed prior to the turbo so I think if it was more than a tooth advanced it wouldn’t run very well, right?
Here’s the cam card. It is a 115+4


Last edited by 2boosted; 04-15-2020 at 07:16 AM.
Old 04-15-2020, 05:01 PM
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Maybe I misunderstood. That box shows "LS1", is this a single bolt cam? I'll assume that it is and Bullet refers to all generations as "LS1" similar to Comp. If you're three-bolt, the cam is not the problem and disregard the following.

If your cam is non-VVT and installed in a VVT system with the phaser or an LS3 sprocket, that's probably the issue. I believe your cam is advanced 12.5 cam degrees. The cam you're using has fairly low duration and lift along with an LSA that would probably allow PTV clearance. A cam with that much advance would see high cylinder pressure up top and is probably why you were detonating. Idle smooth, take off like a rocket, and then fall on it's face. Seems like that's what you have. You said in an earlier post that the cam was degreed. Are you SURE that was done?

Last edited by pmoore4321; 04-15-2020 at 05:28 PM.
Old 04-15-2020, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by pmoore4321
Maybe I misunderstood. That box shows "LS1", is this a single bolt cam? I'll assume that it is and Bullet refers to all generations as "LS1" similar to Comp. If you're three-bolt, the cam is not the problem and disregard the following.

If your cam is non-VVT and installed in a VVT system with the phaser or an LS3 sprocket, that's probably the issue. I believe your cam is advanced 12.5 cam degrees. The cam you're using has fairly low duration and lift along with an LSA that would probably allow PTV clearance. A cam with that much advance would see high cylinder pressure up top and is probably why you were detonating. Idle smooth, take off like a rocket, and then fall on it's face. Seems like that's what you have. You said in an earlier post that the cam was degreed. Are you SURE that was done?
I also thought that was the problem. I did in fact have a vvt cam gear and non vvt cam because bullet screwed up. I had a single bolt non vvt cam gear installed and nothing changed. I’m thinking I have a degree issue. The guy likely installed it thinking it was a vvt cam, like I said it was. And since it wasn’t
a vvt cam. It’s likely over advanced. At this point, I’m going to swap injectors and have a btr stage 2 turbo cam put in there. Since the cam has to come
out anyway. I was looking through the dyno graphs of different cams and noticed l, even though this cam is over advanced, it still doesn’t make any more
power down low than the btr before 4500. Maybe a little more torque but that’s it.
Old 04-15-2020, 06:11 PM
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Why does the cam need to come out? Why cant they slap a degree wheel on it and check to see where its at currently? If they dont know how to check where its degreed I would find a different shop. That cam degreed in properly should make tons of low end compared to a btr stage 2. I ran a isky triple 12 for a while in my turbo 5.3 rambler and switched to a 228/230-112 and it is a totally different power band.
Old 04-15-2020, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 94heritage
Why does the cam need to come out? Why cant they slap a degree wheel on it and check to see where its at currently? If they dont know how to check where its degreed I would find a different shop. That cam degreed in properly should make tons of low end compared to a btr stage 2. I ran a isky triple 12 for a while in my turbo 5.3 rambler and switched to a 228/230-112 and it is a totally different power band.
Do you like the new cam or the old one better? Drive ability wise.
Old 04-15-2020, 06:37 PM
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If I'm right, and I do mean "if", it seems like a fairly simple fix. Just roll the cam back one tooth. I would still verify with a wheel, but I wouldn't swap the cam.


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