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Just saw this, but I used the cable that came with it and just went forward, looped back, and at the back of the trans looped forward to the mount. It is just a couple of inches up, I raised it just enough to get the proper throw distance and **** height in the center console. Overall, it’s super easy after YOU figure out where you want it to work best for you!
Awesome. Thank you for checking back in on this. I have the shifter. I guess it's time to start cutting some of the inner structure of the console to make room for mounting.
Been there myself thinking about the big’en dash but went with the 6.86”.
Atomic I think had a picture of what the 12” looks like in the NBS dash as I think someone used one of his plates and just trimmed the plastic around the gauge cluster, I don’t see the pic showing up under Atomic’s post on my iPad though
Awesome. Thank you for checking back in on this. I have the shifter. I guess it's time to start cutting some of the inner structure of the console to make room for mounting.
I hate to keep bringing this one back up for you. But, I've got another question. Shifter is installed. It was pretty straightforward with enough trimming to the guts of the console. But, I'm having one issue. Go from Park to Reverse and indicator in dash shows it's in Reverse. But, go from Reverse to Neutral and indicator shows it's in Park again. Go from Neutral to Drive and indicator shows it's in Drive. Any idea what in the poop this is? Shift linkage adjustment, maybe????
I hate to keep bringing this one back up for you. But, I've got another question. Shifter is installed. It was pretty straightforward with enough trimming to the guts of the console. But, I'm having one issue. Go from Park to Reverse and indicator in dash shows it's in Reverse. But, go from Reverse to Neutral and indicator shows it's in Park again. Go from Neutral to Drive and indicator shows it's in Drive. Any idea what in the poop this is? Shift linkage adjustment, maybe????
If it was fine with the stock shifter I’d double check the alignment in all gears. Pull the cotter pin and the cable from the lever in ever single gear and make sure it doesn’t move into place. If that checks out, clock the NSS to match better.
I finally got around to swapping the front coils and DJM drop shocks to the QA1 double adjustable setup and the adjustment is amazing. I should have some track time next month but the other pics below are how it responded at the track before and you can see there there isn’t much front end rise (wasn’t maxing out the shock, just no rebound).
If it was fine with the stock shifter I’d double check the alignment in all gears. Pull the cotter pin and the cable from the lever in ever single gear and make sure it doesn’t move into place. If that checks out, clock the NSS to match better.
Yes, it worked right before. And, I can definitely check adjustment on cable and lever again. But, how in the world do I clock the NSS? I haven't had to replace one on it before. I thought it was a fixed position kind of thing. And, thank you very much for the advice. It is appreciated.
I finally got around to swapping the front coils and DJM drop shocks to the QA1 double adjustable setup and the adjustment is amazing. I should have some track time next month but the other pics below are how it responded at the track before and you can see there there isn’t much front end rise (wasn’t maxing out the shock, just no rebound).
I'm running a coilover conversion from AFP on my 4x4 with double adjustable viking shocks. It's amazing the difference in these things getting rid of the torsion bars. Keep up the progress reports. It's awesome
Yes, it worked right before. And, I can definitely check adjustment on cable and lever again. But, how in the world do I clock the NSS? I haven't had to replace one on it before. I thought it was a fixed position kind of thing. And, thank you very much for the advice. It is appreciated.
All you have to do is loosen the two bolts that mount it to the trans and rotate it. If I’m alone, I’ll put the trans in reverse and rotate it back and forth (key on) to find the middle of reverse on the NSS (using reverse lights). If you have a helper, just barely break the bolts loose so there is good resistance and have them cycle through the problem gears and you rotate until it displays what it should.
All you have to do is loosen the two bolts that mount it to the trans and rotate it. If I’m alone, I’ll put the trans in reverse and rotate it back and forth (key on) to find the middle of reverse on the NSS (using reverse lights). If you have a helper, just barely break the bolts loose so there is good resistance and have them cycle through the problem gears and you rotate until it displays what it should.
Good deal. Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try in a day or two. Wanna play with it a little bit before climbing under it again. LoL
Aug 14, 2022 | 09:18 PM
