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>= 600 wheel sbe 5.3s – maintenance and questions

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Old May 5, 2017 | 12:15 PM
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Thumbs up >= 600 wheel sbe 5.3s – maintenance and questions

Do you guys re torque anything? Head Studs, Rockers, Crank bolt, Rod bolts, Intake bolts? Do you loosen one bolt at a time then re torque it to spec and move to the next bolt in sequence? Or set the torque wrench and go in sequence around the bolts/nuts?

I keep reading the sbe is fine at this level but the rod bolts are in question and should be swapped for ARP, or whatever… well I’ve seen rods bend and pistons blow up but not any examples of a rod bolt letting go. Has anyone actually lost a motor because of a rod bolt failing?

As I am waiting my trucks return from the body shop, I’m already thinking about turning it up a bit more. Rebuilt/new Sbe 5.3 with the common boost drivetrain upgrades on 93 fuel with dual nozzle 100% meth with 16psi. Do you guys stop at a power level or a certain PSI? If you can keep IAT, AFR and knock in check, what’s the point where you stop? With 630 wheel, my motor is making damn near 700 crank, which I think is impressive. I have the turbo, IC, Meth… needed for more power and believe the actual engine is the piece in question.

( i still have stock flex pump so I would upgrade to the 450 in any attempt to increase power )
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Old May 5, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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I never have retorqued any fastener mentioned

RT
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Old May 5, 2017 | 01:15 PM
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What/who is SBE?
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Old May 5, 2017 | 01:31 PM
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SBE= Stock Bottom End

I wouldnt touch those bolts. Rod bolts let go from RPM, not from power. Dont spin it to 7k and youll be fine with stockers.

Power is ultimately limited by the turbo output...at some point its on the choke line and adding boost doesnt move any more air. As long as the bottom end and valve train hold up, the heads lifting will be your failure point, but most likely you will get rod failure before then. Not a whole lot you can do to prevent that besides making sure the tune is good, fuel is good, and you have absolutely no detonation.
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Old May 5, 2017 | 01:34 PM
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Don't replace rod bolts with ARP, the change in clamping force can cause more issues. I never re torqued anything, just ran it. Keep clean oil in it and good fuel. If you build another bottom end then use good hardware.

I ran mine at 14-16psi for quite awhile. Don't know power level but at my wieght and trap it was showing around 700 wheel.
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Old May 5, 2017 | 01:42 PM
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Thanks guys. I only spin it to 6500 rpm.

I guess the only thing holding me back from attempting to make more power is my *****. Id hate to try for 700 wheel just to spit out my engine that woulda lasted fine at my current level. I agree, if I were to ever build another LS, itd have aftermarket rods/pistons/hardware in the bottom.
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Old May 5, 2017 | 02:36 PM
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If you want it to live dont roll the dice by turning it up
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Old May 5, 2017 | 03:13 PM
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I'd like to think anymore power than your making now can't be easily put down on the street. I'm at roughly the same power level as you and my truck is useless in 2wd.
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Old May 5, 2017 | 03:35 PM
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I think your more then 700 at the crank since you made 630 at the wheel.
drive line loss is more then 10%....
I bet your past 750 at the crank...
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Old May 5, 2017 | 05:27 PM
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Tread carefully on wawa ****
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