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Bolt-On 4.8 Dyno..... Thoughts?

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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
Dyno charts in my sig are from my 4.8... First one is a 220/220 the second one is 222/224
Did you ever get any baseline #'s when it was stock or near stock by chance?
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Old Feb 28, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by SlvrSierra4.8
Did you ever get any baseline #'s when it was stock or near stock by chance?
Nope, I never got around to it...
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 10:34 AM
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Any other ideas on why my #'s are down? Could it be just the tune or am I needing LT's that badly?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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i am going to go out on a limb and say that i didn't notice as much from my lt's as some say they do, and yes i retuned for it, just thought i got alot more from my cam. I had that same cam in my 5.3 and it made more of a diff than my lt's for sure, and we put that cam in my buddies bone stock truck, then tuned it and it made a good difference and made the mileage alot better actually, from 14/17 to about 16/22.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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could just be a low dyno.

At the dyno I go to, a stock 400hp LS2 M6 vette put down 335. I put 267 on that same dyno in 2nd gear. I wouldn't say you're numbers are too far off. Of all the mods I've done LTs gave the most SOTP.
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 11:33 PM
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I can tell you first hand no two dyno's are the same. While there a good tool for Tuning and verifying your performance gains. With out a base line before you start moding, its hard to tell how far the numbers may be off and how much of an actual gain your mods gave you.

I have an 00 silverado ecsb 5.3L and I wanted to get a base line before I do any thing serious with it...

I am about as close to sea level as you can get. I went to 2 different dyno's and got 2 different readings.

Bone stock 5.3L only thing it has is K&N replacment style filter. I run 10-30 Valvoline High milage 75,000 mile + oil with an AC Delco filter. I'll tell you why on the oil In a sec.

At the time I did my base line my truck had like 119,000 miles. This was back in NOV. of 08

Less then a year old DTS Dyno it put down 269 Hp@5050 RPM at the wheels.

Pulled in second gear.

I knew it seemed kinda on the high side for stock RWHP. I went the following week to another dyno. I was kinda sckeptical of the first reading seeing as how the factory rating was around just under 300Hp at the crank. There is roughly a 18% - 20% loss through the drivetrain. 300 hp - 20% is a 60HP loss through the drivetrain Thats 240 @ the wheels. even if the loss was 15% I still shouldn't see over 255 at the wheels. With 270 @ the wheels, that would be a 10% loss... No way that would jive!!! Esspecially on my stock original Trans and Rear end...

I got on a mustang dyno and put down 240 Hp@5050 at the wheels.

Also pulled in second gear.

Sorry, I dont have the dyno sheet's scaned in. my computer crashed and I lost that stuff... I have the papers here some were.

Now on the oil

around 80K I thought the motor was done. It would smoke on start up and started to consume as much as a quart and a half of oil every 2000 miles. The low oil lite would come on... I won't even get in to the piston slap....

Yes 2000 Not even to a full 3000 mile oil change. I could not affoard a new motor so i started looking for temperorary alternatives.

I started adding the Valvoline additive wich is supposed to help with the oil consumption and I was still running 5-30 at this point. After the first oil change I was able to make it a whole 3000 miles with out the low oil light coming on. So I continued to add it. Then I figured why spend the money on the additive when I can buy the oil with it already in it. I also figured why not switch to 10-30 and see if the valve train quites down... 2 oil changes later there was no more ticking in the valve train. It also seemed to quite down the motor in general. I also noticed things like the valve covers stoped looking like they were seaping oil.... well I am at 121,000 or so miles and I know its not gonna last for ever.... but It's not leaking any oil and the piston slap can only be heard if you don't let the engine warm up for a few minutes.

Replacement motor is almost done...
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SlvrSierra4.8
Any other ideas on why my #'s are down? Could it be just the tune or am I needing LT's that badly?
IMO its the cam you choose, it has -15* of overlap :O, this is why the peak HP looks like it is at 4800-5000rpm... I put down 300/300 with 220 cam with -8* of overlap which peaked at 5800rpm.... Honestly if you want more HP you should look into swapping to a larger cam...
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
IMO its the cam you choose, it has -15* of overlap :O, this is why the peak HP looks like it is at 4800-5000rpm... I put down 300/300 with 220 cam with -8* of overlap which peaked at 5800rpm.... Honestly if you want more HP you should look into swapping to a larger cam...
Actually this graph was before the camswap/retune, planning on making a trip back to the dyno sometime this week to see what kind of #'s it puts down. Stupid question of the day.......... how do you calculate overlap?
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