? And (I think) isn't information... He purchased the truck as-is so the cost thing is null and void.

I don't disagree that with a converter he would benefit greatly, I've never seen a centrifugal blower that didn't from the right one. Nobody's arguing that. "I'd drive it into a wall" isn't exactly constructive criticism either as you put it. Pretty sure that's basically text book bashing...

As always, I could go on and on about how you're wrong and so forth. But I think everyone here is aware of it. There's a reason that your user title is what it is.

And as everyone has said, OP, you're on the right track! Keep doing what you're doing and the times and speeds will improve.

 

I bought the " super servo" , new beast sun shell, upgraded 3/4 pack, wider band, full master rebuild kit, new trans cooler, new filter, and hd shift kit. Picked it all up from trans star for right at 400. Rebuilding it in class so I won't complain if it does or doesn't. Plus my tuner isn't half bad at all.

 

You mentioned stock injectors on the truck when you bought it. I might have missed it, but what injectors/fuel pump are in the truck now? I also agree that a stall will do wonders for this truck, but I have other major concerns at this point. With the kind of boost you are running I would expect some issues with supporting mods. As soon as you get that transmission swapped I would start upgrading the valve train which is the weakest motor portion. Hardened pushrods, better valve springs, upgraded rockers, and a stronger timing chain should likely be at the top of your list for a truck that appears to have been abused. (Who keeps stock injectors in an FI build.) long tubes would really open up the topend in that beast.

 

I have 60# injectors in the truck with the fmu. Was tolded up graded pump also but idk yet. I will be putting long tubes when i pull it in for my high performance class.. also cleaning up the heads, putting a cam and probly a meth kit with it.

 

[QUOTE=silver-mod-o;5188361 "I'd drive it into a wall" isn't exactly constructive criticism either as you put it. Pretty sure that's basically text book bashing... .[/QUOTE]

That is a joke, an adult joke for you and me! Not for the kids. hahah

 

Any clue on what y'all think I should run on stall size?

 

Good run op! The trap looks pretty decent. Who tuned the truck? A lazy tune in a FI truck can be a major power killer.

You've got a lot to gain in the 60' so dont dwindle on the 13.36. And also, comparing FI to nitrous is a completely different story. FI is harder to get the combo matched right IMO. You have an air pump driving an air pump, so the dynamics of the blower/turbo have to be matched to the engine. Nitrous is just better air, not forced air IMO. You dont have efficiency maps of how the bottle varies with total engine air flow like you do with turbos.

Ask the guy that took a cammed 6.0l that shifted at 6600n/a and threw a turbo on it. It feel over at 5500rpms with the turbo. Nitrous wouldn't have done that. I didn't match the turbo correctly.

Blowers may be completely different, but I've been around a few small shot vehicles (sub 200) and a couple turbo rigs. I have never seen something run worse with 100 shot, but I have saw a truck run worse on 4-6lbs(mine).

I used to bash on FI trucks, but then realized they are not always running to their full potential. 90% of nitrous peoples times are ***** out, everything working right. Boost guys dont run to their potential as often as nitrous trucks. They are more involved.

 

That really depends on your gearing and cam choice, final boost number, weight etc...

As a rule, pro chargers run well in the 3200-3800 stall speed range. To be more specific more info would really be needed.

 

I had Jeremy Formato tune the truck for me. He had to help me fix a ton on the truck just to make it run and tune.

 

I don't know if I should keep my 4.10 or put the stock gears back in it. I'm going to be running a 223/231 610/613 . Im not sure on the boost. I don't think I can really go much smaller then a 3.7 pulley.