I just got off the phone with SCE and they confirmed that the solid copper gasket with an o-ring in the block is superior to the ICS gaskest, especially on the gen3 engines with the 10 compression bolts.

 

i have heard a few things about o ringing the block that worries me.

first i thought you had to take the motor to a machine shop, sounds like that might not be true?

then i hear it is hard to get things to seal up with copper gaskets. people often have seeping coolant problems.

the head gaskets kind of acts as a fuse if there is a problem rather than something more expensive like a piston.

i think my current problems are due to detonation and i would be having the same problems with orings. either not good enough fuel, not enough fuel, wrong plugs, hot spot of some kind, too much timing or some other thing i am not aware of.

if i really wanted to do things right i would build a whole new fuel system, run c16 and oring the block/heads. better yet wait for one of those new gm blocks they have coming out. for now i just want to do as little as i can to squeek into the 9's.

 

The groove cutter I have seen used at my machine shop is hand held. It centers with guides that go into the cyl and has 2 handles in which you rotate the tool while it cuts the groove. The back cyls may have some clearance issues against the fire wall with the handles of the tool though
I have run two different 400 sbc's that were o-ringed and solid copper gaskets. I used the Moroso Ceramic Seal that you put into the coolant both times and had no coolant leak issues with them. SCE sells and recommends the Hylomar and that will be the route I go this time around.
I understand that you may not want to get into any more work right now.
I just know that I had signs of exhaust escaping past the gasket on the center cyls before and only running 10 psi and peaking at 14psi a couple of times. Granted that was with factory MLS gaskets and factory heads and you have the AFR's with much thicker decks and can hold up to more pressure without distortion. Just do whatever makes you happy.

PS. Then only really disappointment I have with the gen 3 engines is the damn 10 head bolts.

 

Jim~ Just a quick ? Are you running 1/2 head studs????

 

nope, just basic arp head studs.

 

you need some fat slicks in the back that are the same height as your tire now. then we could all watch the front tires free wheel as they try for traction in the air lol.

 

i have spent some time thinking this one over. i never got the motivation needed to work on the truck so it seems i am done for the year. the track is only open 2 more times this year and i have plans both weekends.

i decided there are other projects i have been waiting to get started on. risking an expensive break on the truck would set me back a ways and i really want to get going on this other stuff.

i have a lot of ideas on what i want to do next but they all hinge on if anyone will pay decent money for my truck. it is well known so maybe i can get a good portion of my money back but if not then i am going to turn it into an all out drag truck. thinking 4 link, 2wd and drop 1000lbs for starters but if i can sell it for a fair price then my options open up a little.

look for an add in the forsale section soon.

 

I know exactly what it is like to get burnt out. I am considering selling mine when I get it fixed as well to help take care of some of my debt from a failed business of my wife's
I will consider reasonable offers.

 

YOU WOULDNT
you better go with that second option
you know with the 4 link etc

 

Damn bro I would hate to see you stop so short of hitting your goal of the 9. Your truck has been a big inspiration to alot of guys. I can remember when I saw your truck in HOTROD a few years ago. I was telling a buddy of mine that is where it is at. He still doesnt understand why I, or anyone for that matter, would spend so much time and money trying to make a fat girl run fast. But we all know how much fun it is to hand out that *** in a big old truck.