man you 60ft flat out sucks.... I would get some slicks and tune it via a wideband before throwing more parts at it...

 

I see someone agrees.

 

There is a lot left in it just with a tune, I was just looking over one of the logs and I'm getting 8.1 degrees of burst knock retard off the line. Basically I was getting 2.5 degrees of timing off the line. Also gotta get the AFR and timing optimized. And then I've gotta see about the stock catback, I'm not sure if adding a cutout alone will eliminate it's restriction.

As far as the not being able to get off the line, I have no clue why. Like I said, with the stock 60 and stock stall I was able to get a 2.16 60' by feathering it and no wheel spin. One thing I do recall now is that they weren't spraying VHT on the track and torching it like they were last time. Also, almost every other car there was having traction problems too. 40 degree cold weather is not optimal, especially on street tires.

So, I expect to still see a very good amount of improvement as it sits just by getting rid of the burst KR and optimizing AFR and timing. And then after that worry about the catback exhaust.

 

I don't understand why you have so much knock problems.. is there a small person in your engine bay hitting the block with a hammer?

 

Burst knock retard is not knock. It's the PCM pulling timing when there are large changes in air mass such as going from 0-100% TPS in anticipation that it may cause real knock. I have no KR.

 

Zero that burst knock BS out and see how much better it feels, trust me listen for audible knock. Those sensors hold you back more than anyting some times. You're not going to run any faster than stock tuning intended unless you get away from stock tuning. Splicing tables from different stock tunes won't get you anywhere... You've gotta make changes specific to your setup.

 

Until you adjust your tune I can't justifiably compare your previous times with your new times. Best of luck!

 

Yep, got them zeroed out. I was fortunate I just happen to be logging burst knock just for the hell of it.

See, these are the little tricks that no one talks about, and why tuners make their money. It's the same thing with me chasing my tail on false knock until I realized that the stock 6.0 knock sensitivity is 30% more sensitive than the 4.8/5.3 settings. That just does not jive with a noiser aftermarket valvetrain.

 

i zeroed out alot of my knock tables cause of the cam and springs.

 

So, you're goin back to the 60E then?...



I'm green to the tuning, prolly cause I'm on here all the time.

But they're related I'd think. No?

Makes me think bout an upcoming situation someone will be facing.

Tricks are why they're paid that money, & if I get overwhelmed, I'll call upon a pro like BB or Wheatley. Where'd ya find out bout the 6L being 30% more sensitive than 5.3/4.8 settings?

If I may, why the stock catback? Do u like it quiet?