Cranking torsion bars
10-26-2009, 05:15 PM
#1
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Cranking torsion bars
How far can I crank the stock torsion bars on a Suburban 2500 before I get issues.
I put on a set of 265/75-16 with a Micky Thompson wheel that has a bit more offset and they slighty rub in the front.
Measuring from the wheel straight up to the wheel well the front was 1 3/8" lower than the back.
I cranked the torsion bar bolt 4 turns and now the front is 3/4" lower than the back. I noticed the driver side bolt was cranked tighter than the passanger side
I put on a set of 265/75-16 with a Micky Thompson wheel that has a bit more offset and they slighty rub in the front.
Measuring from the wheel straight up to the wheel well the front was 1 3/8" lower than the back.
I cranked the torsion bar bolt 4 turns and now the front is 3/4" lower than the back. I noticed the driver side bolt was cranked tighter than the passanger side
10-26-2009, 09:05 PM
#3
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you can go up quite a bit, but the ride sucks
We did the 2" leveling kit on my sububran to clear 255-85-16's on stock 16" wheels. no problems but the ride was crap. I thin switched to bead lock wheels and it rubs under full turn..
Some friends of mine have a race shop ( baja ) anyway they have sold a lot of the camali (sp) upper a arms for 2500 chevys. They said it would fix the feeling of the wheels falling off in pot holes.. I also have a bad pitman and idler arms..
In a nut hell you will loos the down travel by cranking the tbars...
post up some picts of the wheels and tires.
We did the 2" leveling kit on my sububran to clear 255-85-16's on stock 16" wheels. no problems but the ride was crap. I thin switched to bead lock wheels and it rubs under full turn..
Some friends of mine have a race shop ( baja ) anyway they have sold a lot of the camali (sp) upper a arms for 2500 chevys. They said it would fix the feeling of the wheels falling off in pot holes.. I also have a bad pitman and idler arms..
In a nut hell you will loos the down travel by cranking the tbars...
post up some picts of the wheels and tires.
11-01-2009, 09:55 PM
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put an air gun on the bolts and run them till they stop. I just did it last night on my hd and the alignment is PERFECT. Dont waste money on the alignment unless it already needs one before you crank the bars.
and yes the ride does get worse, more bouncy.
and yes the ride does get worse, more bouncy.
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11-02-2009, 10:04 AM
#8
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Oldcrow,
i dont know your location, but if your in the pittsburgh area, doubt it, but come and check mine out. Bolts are bottomed out on mine, and 4 other hds we have at work. Not once did we have to get it aligned.
However, you dont have to take my advice, just do it for yourself and you'll see.
i dont know your location, but if your in the pittsburgh area, doubt it, but come and check mine out. Bolts are bottomed out on mine, and 4 other hds we have at work. Not once did we have to get it aligned.
However, you dont have to take my advice, just do it for yourself and you'll see.
11-06-2009, 04:23 PM
#10
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We do the 2500's about 2-3 a week.
You can lift about 2" higher than stock.
You need 2" keys and shock extenders.
But if you lift higher,the upper control arm will be too close at the stopper which will make it drive pretty bad and hard on ball joints.Another way is to use aftermarket upper control arms if you want to go 3".
Quite a few keys and shock brackets out there.
We use these at our shop.
You need an alignment after.
You can lift about 2" higher than stock.
You need 2" keys and shock extenders.
But if you lift higher,the upper control arm will be too close at the stopper which will make it drive pretty bad and hard on ball joints.Another way is to use aftermarket upper control arms if you want to go 3".
Quite a few keys and shock brackets out there.
We use these at our shop.
You need an alignment after.
Last edited by trever1t; 11-06-2009 at 04:45 PM. Reason: NON_SPONSOR LINK REMOVED