tune
10-14-2011, 06:14 AM
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Staging Lane
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tune
Idk if this belongs here correct me if im wrong, but what gains should i expect of a in person tune. I have a vortec max 2007 with just magnaflow catback?
10-14-2011, 11:03 AM
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Launching!
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Please allow me to answer since I have a mobile 'in-person' PCM tuning service in Los Angeles.
A in-person tune, not on a dyno and not using a wideband O2 sensor means that we rely solely on dialing in your fuel trims, setting up a performance ignition timing table and mild PE tuning without drastically "blindly" changing AFR's. With automatic transmissions we can change the upshift and downshift properties to allow the engine to hang for a bit longer in any gear to get the engine into it's power range and we also allow a more sensitive downshift with lesser throttle (ever feel like you have your foot floored and the trans won't downshift and it lugs the engine?) We can make the shifts feel firmer and quicker reducing the lag time between gears and reducing slip/heat.
We can turn off diagnostic trouble codes such as downstream O2's for off-road exhaust systems. Adjust misfire tables for camshaft & stall converter installs (as well as idle tuning for camshafts). Diasble DOD for performance gen IV trucks. Change gear ratio and tire height settings for speedo and shift correction. We can turn off VATS so you won't need a 'chipped' key anymore.
We turn off or reduce torque managment, electronic throttle limiters, ignition timing limiters and raise torque limits to prevent the activation of limiter protocols. Remove or reduce burst knock and slightly desensitize knock sensors to prevent 'false' knock (potholes/bumpy roads).
On the street we write a tune that allows the best noticeable increase while not allowing the engine to 'knock retard' on the current grade of fuel in the tank.
On a dyno we have the ability to make subtle changes in progression to max power, adding fuel changes and ignition timing incrementally until max power is achieved. With a wide band O2 sensor hooked up we shoot for a idle/cruise around 14.7-15:1 AFR and with power enrichment active we shoot for 12.3-13:1 AFR without knock.
A factory tune is very choked, a ton of limiters in place to help the 'end user' not actually feel their vehicle accelerating and not feel the transmission shift or TCC apply. (remember, non performance enthusiasts don't like the feeling of being pushed back into the seat). In recent years GMT900 (NNBS) trucks have overly excessive limiters implemented so GM could feel more confident advertising the 100,000mile warranty.
If I told you you would gain 30hp and 40tq and +6mpg, it wouldn't be far fetched but I would only be saying such a thing to fall into marketing hype like handheld programmers do. That figure is achieved at 5000-6000rpm, and the mpg increase would only exist if you never applied throttle. Not exactly the operating range of your tuck.
But, I feel it's better to say that throttle response would feel better, acceleration would be smoother, shifting would feel tighter. Your daily driver would be more enjoyable and you could turn a 15-16sec 1/4 mile ET truck into a high 13 low 14 second truck with minor bolt on's and a tune.
You could gain just as much from a mail order tune from a site sponsor here as you could from a in-person tune. For the exception that in person we can make instant changes on the spot to dial in the driveability properties to your preferences and in-person you don't need to purchase the refundable PCM core exchange.
Handheld tuners are limited, they are pre-formed changes generic to adding a couple horsepower by adding 4-6 degrees of ignition timing in high rpm and lowering the PE delay. They can also slightly change trans shifts and firmess. Handheld tunes feel better than stock but not by much, again they are limited because they need to be C.A.R.B. compliant.... and in order to get the C.A.R.B. eo# approved you have to prove to the government that your modification does practically nothing to the vehicle. I'm not kidding.
Also, I have noticed with handheld tuners that advertise to turn off downstream O2's. They only turn off 2 of the 8+ codes triggered by missing HO2S2 and a check engine light will still remain on. Another thing, a handheld programmer than can change gear ratios and tire height can not tune the ABS computer too and may trigger the 'Brake or ABS' lights on the dash.
I hope I cleared up a few things for ya. Cheers ~Mykk
A in-person tune, not on a dyno and not using a wideband O2 sensor means that we rely solely on dialing in your fuel trims, setting up a performance ignition timing table and mild PE tuning without drastically "blindly" changing AFR's. With automatic transmissions we can change the upshift and downshift properties to allow the engine to hang for a bit longer in any gear to get the engine into it's power range and we also allow a more sensitive downshift with lesser throttle (ever feel like you have your foot floored and the trans won't downshift and it lugs the engine?) We can make the shifts feel firmer and quicker reducing the lag time between gears and reducing slip/heat.
We can turn off diagnostic trouble codes such as downstream O2's for off-road exhaust systems. Adjust misfire tables for camshaft & stall converter installs (as well as idle tuning for camshafts). Diasble DOD for performance gen IV trucks. Change gear ratio and tire height settings for speedo and shift correction. We can turn off VATS so you won't need a 'chipped' key anymore.
We turn off or reduce torque managment, electronic throttle limiters, ignition timing limiters and raise torque limits to prevent the activation of limiter protocols. Remove or reduce burst knock and slightly desensitize knock sensors to prevent 'false' knock (potholes/bumpy roads).
On the street we write a tune that allows the best noticeable increase while not allowing the engine to 'knock retard' on the current grade of fuel in the tank.
On a dyno we have the ability to make subtle changes in progression to max power, adding fuel changes and ignition timing incrementally until max power is achieved. With a wide band O2 sensor hooked up we shoot for a idle/cruise around 14.7-15:1 AFR and with power enrichment active we shoot for 12.3-13:1 AFR without knock.
A factory tune is very choked, a ton of limiters in place to help the 'end user' not actually feel their vehicle accelerating and not feel the transmission shift or TCC apply. (remember, non performance enthusiasts don't like the feeling of being pushed back into the seat). In recent years GMT900 (NNBS) trucks have overly excessive limiters implemented so GM could feel more confident advertising the 100,000mile warranty.
If I told you you would gain 30hp and 40tq and +6mpg, it wouldn't be far fetched but I would only be saying such a thing to fall into marketing hype like handheld programmers do. That figure is achieved at 5000-6000rpm, and the mpg increase would only exist if you never applied throttle. Not exactly the operating range of your tuck.
But, I feel it's better to say that throttle response would feel better, acceleration would be smoother, shifting would feel tighter. Your daily driver would be more enjoyable and you could turn a 15-16sec 1/4 mile ET truck into a high 13 low 14 second truck with minor bolt on's and a tune.
You could gain just as much from a mail order tune from a site sponsor here as you could from a in-person tune. For the exception that in person we can make instant changes on the spot to dial in the driveability properties to your preferences and in-person you don't need to purchase the refundable PCM core exchange.
Handheld tuners are limited, they are pre-formed changes generic to adding a couple horsepower by adding 4-6 degrees of ignition timing in high rpm and lowering the PE delay. They can also slightly change trans shifts and firmess. Handheld tunes feel better than stock but not by much, again they are limited because they need to be C.A.R.B. compliant.... and in order to get the C.A.R.B. eo# approved you have to prove to the government that your modification does practically nothing to the vehicle. I'm not kidding.
Also, I have noticed with handheld tuners that advertise to turn off downstream O2's. They only turn off 2 of the 8+ codes triggered by missing HO2S2 and a check engine light will still remain on. Another thing, a handheld programmer than can change gear ratios and tire height can not tune the ABS computer too and may trigger the 'Brake or ABS' lights on the dash.
I hope I cleared up a few things for ya. Cheers ~Mykk
Last edited by 04SilveradoMykk; 10-14-2011 at 11:34 AM.
10-14-2011, 03:13 PM
#4
Staging Lane
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Please allow me to answer since I have a mobile 'in-person' PCM tuning service in Los Angeles.
A in-person tune, not on a dyno and not using a wideband O2 sensor means that we rely solely on dialing in your fuel trims, setting up a performance ignition timing table and mild PE tuning without drastically "blindly" changing AFR's. With automatic transmissions we can change the upshift and downshift properties to allow the engine to hang for a bit longer in any gear to get the engine into it's power range and we also allow a more sensitive downshift with lesser throttle (ever feel like you have your foot floored and the trans won't downshift and it lugs the engine?) We can make the shifts feel firmer and quicker reducing the lag time between gears and reducing slip/heat.
We can turn off diagnostic trouble codes such as downstream O2's for off-road exhaust systems. Adjust misfire tables for camshaft & stall converter installs (as well as idle tuning for camshafts). Diasble DOD for performance gen IV trucks. Change gear ratio and tire height settings for speedo and shift correction. We can turn off VATS so you won't need a 'chipped' key anymore.
We turn off or reduce torque managment, electronic throttle limiters, ignition timing limiters and raise torque limits to prevent the activation of limiter protocols. Remove or reduce burst knock and slightly desensitize knock sensors to prevent 'false' knock (potholes/bumpy roads).
On the street we write a tune that allows the best noticeable increase while not allowing the engine to 'knock retard' on the current grade of fuel in the tank.
On a dyno we have the ability to make subtle changes in progression to max power, adding fuel changes and ignition timing incrementally until max power is achieved. With a wide band O2 sensor hooked up we shoot for a idle/cruise around 14.7-15:1 AFR and with power enrichment active we shoot for 12.3-13:1 AFR without knock.
A factory tune is very choked, a ton of limiters in place to help the 'end user' not actually feel their vehicle accelerating and not feel the transmission shift or TCC apply. (remember, non performance enthusiasts don't like the feeling of being pushed back into the seat). In recent years GMT900 (NNBS) trucks have overly excessive limiters implemented so GM could feel more confident advertising the 100,000mile warranty.
If I told you you would gain 30hp and 40tq and +6mpg, it wouldn't be far fetched but I would only be saying such a thing to fall into marketing hype like handheld programmers do. That figure is achieved at 5000-6000rpm, and the mpg increase would only exist if you never applied throttle. Not exactly the operating range of your tuck.
But, I feel it's better to say that throttle response would feel better, acceleration would be smoother, shifting would feel tighter. Your daily driver would be more enjoyable and you could turn a 15-16sec 1/4 mile ET truck into a high 13 low 14 second truck with minor bolt on's and a tune.
You could gain just as much from a mail order tune from a site sponsor here as you could from a in-person tune. For the exception that in person we can make instant changes on the spot to dial in the driveability properties to your preferences and in-person you don't need to purchase the refundable PCM core exchange.
Handheld tuners are limited, they are pre-formed changes generic to adding a couple horsepower by adding 4-6 degrees of ignition timing in high rpm and lowering the PE delay. They can also slightly change trans shifts and firmess. Handheld tunes feel better than stock but not by much, again they are limited because they need to be C.A.R.B. compliant.... and in order to get the C.A.R.B. eo# approved you have to prove to the government that your modification does practically nothing to the vehicle. I'm not kidding.
Also, I have noticed with handheld tuners that advertise to turn off downstream O2's. They only turn off 2 of the 8+ codes triggered by missing HO2S2 and a check engine light will still remain on. Another thing, a handheld programmer than can change gear ratios and tire height can not tune the ABS computer too and may trigger the 'Brake or ABS' lights on the dash.
I hope I cleared up a few things for ya. Cheers ~Mykk
A in-person tune, not on a dyno and not using a wideband O2 sensor means that we rely solely on dialing in your fuel trims, setting up a performance ignition timing table and mild PE tuning without drastically "blindly" changing AFR's. With automatic transmissions we can change the upshift and downshift properties to allow the engine to hang for a bit longer in any gear to get the engine into it's power range and we also allow a more sensitive downshift with lesser throttle (ever feel like you have your foot floored and the trans won't downshift and it lugs the engine?) We can make the shifts feel firmer and quicker reducing the lag time between gears and reducing slip/heat.
We can turn off diagnostic trouble codes such as downstream O2's for off-road exhaust systems. Adjust misfire tables for camshaft & stall converter installs (as well as idle tuning for camshafts). Diasble DOD for performance gen IV trucks. Change gear ratio and tire height settings for speedo and shift correction. We can turn off VATS so you won't need a 'chipped' key anymore.
We turn off or reduce torque managment, electronic throttle limiters, ignition timing limiters and raise torque limits to prevent the activation of limiter protocols. Remove or reduce burst knock and slightly desensitize knock sensors to prevent 'false' knock (potholes/bumpy roads).
On the street we write a tune that allows the best noticeable increase while not allowing the engine to 'knock retard' on the current grade of fuel in the tank.
On a dyno we have the ability to make subtle changes in progression to max power, adding fuel changes and ignition timing incrementally until max power is achieved. With a wide band O2 sensor hooked up we shoot for a idle/cruise around 14.7-15:1 AFR and with power enrichment active we shoot for 12.3-13:1 AFR without knock.
A factory tune is very choked, a ton of limiters in place to help the 'end user' not actually feel their vehicle accelerating and not feel the transmission shift or TCC apply. (remember, non performance enthusiasts don't like the feeling of being pushed back into the seat). In recent years GMT900 (NNBS) trucks have overly excessive limiters implemented so GM could feel more confident advertising the 100,000mile warranty.
If I told you you would gain 30hp and 40tq and +6mpg, it wouldn't be far fetched but I would only be saying such a thing to fall into marketing hype like handheld programmers do. That figure is achieved at 5000-6000rpm, and the mpg increase would only exist if you never applied throttle. Not exactly the operating range of your tuck.
But, I feel it's better to say that throttle response would feel better, acceleration would be smoother, shifting would feel tighter. Your daily driver would be more enjoyable and you could turn a 15-16sec 1/4 mile ET truck into a high 13 low 14 second truck with minor bolt on's and a tune.
You could gain just as much from a mail order tune from a site sponsor here as you could from a in-person tune. For the exception that in person we can make instant changes on the spot to dial in the driveability properties to your preferences and in-person you don't need to purchase the refundable PCM core exchange.
Handheld tuners are limited, they are pre-formed changes generic to adding a couple horsepower by adding 4-6 degrees of ignition timing in high rpm and lowering the PE delay. They can also slightly change trans shifts and firmess. Handheld tunes feel better than stock but not by much, again they are limited because they need to be C.A.R.B. compliant.... and in order to get the C.A.R.B. eo# approved you have to prove to the government that your modification does practically nothing to the vehicle. I'm not kidding.
Also, I have noticed with handheld tuners that advertise to turn off downstream O2's. They only turn off 2 of the 8+ codes triggered by missing HO2S2 and a check engine light will still remain on. Another thing, a handheld programmer than can change gear ratios and tire height can not tune the ABS computer too and may trigger the 'Brake or ABS' lights on the dash.
I hope I cleared up a few things for ya. Cheers ~Mykk
you kind of make it sound like you can't use a wide band on the street, and a wide band is reserved for the dyno... what gives?
10-14-2011, 03:44 PM
#5
Launching!
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99.9% of my 'street tune' clients that I meet around the city looking for a PCM tune on their drivers do not have the extra bung added pre-cats to monitor a wideband. If you're on a dyno, your serious about power and and probably have more modifications done including (or willing to add) the bung for the wideband sensor.
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