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TM removed; still bogging on bottom end

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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 10:49 AM
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Default TM removed; still bogging on bottom end

I'm new to hptuners, so bear with me. I've removed TM from the tranny (0'd out all the tables for each shift), disabled abuse mode, and removed the engine TM, but my truck still bogs at lower rpm's. It bogs on take off, then bogs a little on the 1>2 shift, and then a little on the 2>3 shift. Shifts have been raise to 5900 rpms. Any idea what the problem could be?

The truck is a 2005 5.3 auto crew cab with 3.23 gears; only mod is slp intake.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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3.23 gears is the problem, plus it is a stock truck. Put some gears in there and it will solve that.. Play with the timing a lil bit

John
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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yeah, those gears are killing you, you could probably tune yourself to death before you get much of a difference, i have a crew cab with 3.73, and i have run a smaller tire before for fun, which is the same as regearing and it makes a pretty good difference minus the fact little tires give no traction. i would put a little tm back in on the 1-2 shift anyway and copy your high octane timing table and paste it to the low, advance the high a bit just watch for kr. your WOT area on the timing table is on the lower part and to the left. good luck!
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by joeyc125
copy your high octane timing table and paste it to the low, advance the high a bit just watch for kr. your WOT area on the timing table is on the lower part and to the left. good luck!
I would definately not recommend that, especially this time of year when it is freaking HOT, you will probably get alot KR and pinging if that is all you do, without changing any fueling.... By doing that you take out alot of the fail safes that help protect your engine... Now if we were in winter it would be a different story....
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 12:57 PM
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so i understand i have a weak tail heavy truck. well, at least now i know.

thanks.

as far as the spark goes, i'm not touching that until my ve table is tuned. i've printed out a few walkthroughs on how to do this, and all say to tune fuel/air first, then spark.

as far as the tm on the 1>2 shift, the tm is only removed when the tow/haul button is pushed. normal riding around will result in major tm, but push the majic button and it all goes away and the tranny shifts way harder and way higher.

again, thanks for the input.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 01:07 PM
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as the others say, you need some gears
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 01:37 PM
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i've got 4.10 gears and a tt3000 stall out in the shop along with headers off a rst truck. i'm waiting on a tr220 cam, shift kit, servos, and the cash for exhaust so i can do it all at once.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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It'll be better when you get done tuning your VE and setting your Timing, and bump up your shift pressure . Throw some long tubes on there and you'll really be addicted.
Third will still fill like reverse with those gears tho.

Also when you increased your shift points, make sure you also increased your rev limiter. can't have it hitting that while your trying to shift.
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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I need some 373's too. WOuld I have to go and ge the speedo reset if I get a set?
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Old Jun 16, 2008 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackGMC
I would definately not recommend that, especially this time of year when it is freaking HOT, you will probably get alot KR and pinging if that is all you do, without changing any fueling.... By doing that you take out alot of the fail safes that help protect your engine... Now if we were in winter it would be a different story....
I was saying that just in reference to timing, assuming he would be doing a little more with the tune, but thats how my truck is set up, i run premium and never see any kr, maybe its just me but when i was learning about timing, countless people that i would consider knowledgable told me to do so...
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