TM removed; still bogging on bottom end
#1
I'm new to hptuners, so bear with me. I've removed TM from the tranny (0'd out all the tables for each shift), disabled abuse mode, and removed the engine TM, but my truck still bogs at lower rpm's. It bogs on take off, then bogs a little on the 1>2 shift, and then a little on the 2>3 shift. Shifts have been raise to 5900 rpms. Any idea what the problem could be?
The truck is a 2005 5.3 auto crew cab with 3.23 gears; only mod is slp intake.
The truck is a 2005 5.3 auto crew cab with 3.23 gears; only mod is slp intake.
#3
yeah, those gears are killing you, you could probably tune yourself to death before you get much of a difference, i have a crew cab with 3.73, and i have run a smaller tire before for fun, which is the same as regearing and it makes a pretty good difference minus the fact little tires give no traction. i would put a little tm back in on the 1-2 shift anyway and copy your high octane timing table and paste it to the low, advance the high a bit just watch for kr. your WOT area on the timing table is on the lower part and to the left. good luck!
#4
I would definately not recommend that, especially this time of year when it is freaking HOT, you will probably get alot KR and pinging if that is all you do, without changing any fueling.... By doing that you take out alot of the fail safes that help protect your engine... Now if we were in winter it would be a different story....
#5
so i understand i have a weak tail heavy truck. well, at least now i know.
thanks.
as far as the spark goes, i'm not touching that until my ve table is tuned. i've printed out a few walkthroughs on how to do this, and all say to tune fuel/air first, then spark.
as far as the tm on the 1>2 shift, the tm is only removed when the tow/haul button is pushed. normal riding around will result in major tm, but push the majic button and it all goes away and the tranny shifts way harder and way higher.
again, thanks for the input.
thanks.
as far as the spark goes, i'm not touching that until my ve table is tuned. i've printed out a few walkthroughs on how to do this, and all say to tune fuel/air first, then spark.
as far as the tm on the 1>2 shift, the tm is only removed when the tow/haul button is pushed. normal riding around will result in major tm, but push the majic button and it all goes away and the tranny shifts way harder and way higher.
again, thanks for the input.
#7
i've got 4.10 gears and a tt3000 stall out in the shop along with headers off a rst truck. i'm waiting on a tr220 cam, shift kit, servos, and the cash for exhaust so i can do it all at once.
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#8
It'll be better when you get done tuning your VE and setting your Timing, and bump up your shift pressure . Throw some long tubes on there and you'll really be addicted.
Third will still fill like reverse with those gears tho.
Also when you increased your shift points, make sure you also increased your rev limiter. can't have it hitting that while your trying to shift.
Third will still fill like reverse with those gears tho.
Also when you increased your shift points, make sure you also increased your rev limiter. can't have it hitting that while your trying to shift.
#10
I would definately not recommend that, especially this time of year when it is freaking HOT, you will probably get alot KR and pinging if that is all you do, without changing any fueling.... By doing that you take out alot of the fail safes that help protect your engine... Now if we were in winter it would be a different story....




