First... what KR sensor is for bank 2? I have a DTC for bank 2 KR sensor... is it the front or rear one?

Also, when at an idle, my timing bouncing between 16and 22*s and the chart line is jagged. Is this normal for a factory stock truck?

 

Don't know the sensor question.

My timing jumps around at idle and think that is normal.

 

im not sure which bank it is. just replace both while you got the intake off.

 

if its set up like a ford ( thats who i work for/on) bank 2 should be the drivers side.but would replace both knoc sensors while ur in there. i didnt know there was a front or rear one unless your thinking of 02 sensors then there would be a front and rear.

 

The knock sensors are in the lifter valley, one in front of the other. I don't have an answer to your question though. Sorry.

The jagged timing is normal however.

 

On our stuff, bank 1 is the drivers side. The DTC shows a bank 2 KR sensor and like flyer said, theyre in the lifter valley in a line. I was just trying to go the cheap as I have one extra sensor sitting in the garage.

Thats crazy about the timing. My SS doesnt do that and I tuned it from scratch in SD. I guess thats why I have a rough idle too. The viberations match the timing spikes.

 

There are some specific points that must be met before you will go into "adaptive idle". Think rpm is one trigger. Perhaps your aren't going into adaptive idle in the SS?

 

The SS's tune is dead nuts. Thats why I asked about the truck. Even a stock F car doesnt bounce around like my truck.

 

Since timing is used by the PCM as a method to control idle, I'd say either you're trying to idle at an unreasonable RPM or there is something mechanical up, such as dirty MAF, slight vacuum leak, bad O2s or something along those lines.

The timing in my truck and T/A both jump around maybe a range of 3* when idling.

 

My truck has always jumped 10* or more at idle. Right now it jumps from as low as 21 to as high as 35. I'm idling at 750 RPM.

On the knock sensors - if one is corroded you'll be able to see it. Take an ohmmeter and touch one end to the knock sensor pin on the harness at the rear of the manifold, and touch the other to a good clean part of the valley cover. You should read about 10K ohms. If it's significantly less than that, you found your bad sensor.