Timing in the 60' Launch
06-09-2006, 07:30 PM
#11
TECH Addict
I dont know...it's only 30 seconds to reload a tune. I'd spend 30 seconds to be able to cut a 1.9x 60" time.
How exactly would you use the IAT table to do the same thing ???
How exactly would you use the IAT table to do the same thing ???
06-09-2006, 08:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Yelo
I dont know...it's only 30 seconds to reload a tune. I'd spend 30 seconds to be able to cut a 1.9x 60" time.
How exactly would you use the IAT table to do the same thing ???
How exactly would you use the IAT table to do the same thing ???
WHat zippy came up with is at the low IAT entry on the 60' you can raise your timing in the IAT spark correction table. As the IAT temp raises, you just zero out what you added. Not hard to figure out what this is. Do a few runs to figure out what your max spark is for crossing the trap (most people already know their max timing), at the same time take notice of your IAT's in your scan. Most will say they start out at 115 or something and cross the line somehwhere around 150. Give or take 5 maybe 10 degrees. So, at 115 add 2-3 degrees depending on your setup. At 120-125 take it back. I again don't have the tables in front of me so I don't remember what the column temps really are.
BC did say it already, but I didn't pick up on it, and zippy points out everything on the SS...it seems that the AWD tuning guy figured out a good way to increase his 60' and the 2WD tuning guy figured out a way to not spin. Both in effect increased their 60' times considerbly, or more importantly, made them consistent with different styles.
Too me the negative timing seems more safe than a positive timing add on the surface, but the correction table is just as safe, if heat rises, timing gets pulled.
Thanks for the post crash, I like this. Very Fuggin interesting. Just shows the smarts of these two guys IMO. They both solved a similiar problem with two different setups with two different ways.
06-09-2006, 08:21 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Crash Dummy
This is going to be hard to explain but here it goes. I went to the track and I could not get any consistent times because I would get tire spin so I used HPtuners scanner and used the fixed timing feature and removed timing so I could hold my gas pedal on the floor at 2000 rpm with no tire spin on my truck it was about -5 degrees at 2000 and my shifts never drop below 4800 rpm so I did a linear line from -5 degrees to full timing at 4800 rpm my 60' times went from 2.4-2.9 down to 1.9 on street tires with no spin and I did 1.9 60,s 11 runs in a row and my ET went from 13.9 down to 13.4 . So this gets better the next time I go to the track I decide to run slicks and full timing and I was not able to improve my 60' or 1/4 times at all over the street tire program with the timing removed. It all comes down to if you spin your tire for 1 second you will be a second slower and the only time the timing is removed is for the first 20 feet and this method is really no different than a slipper clutch on a fueler, you just need to keep the tires sticking to the pavement.
Just what I was looking for! I cant wait to test this out. I have some serious spin issues. I tested it once and spun the up to the 1/8, could have spun the 1/4 im sure but went sidways when it shifted into 2nd... The best launch was 2.4 60' by going 100% TPS then of throttle to 10% TPS back to 100%, Only way to stop spinning. Acording to my scanner witch is accurate to 1/10 at the track this cost me 4-5/10ths!Are you just using the octain tables? I keept hearing about adder tables but have not read the other thread yet.. Can you post some screen shots..
Thanks!
06-09-2006, 09:04 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Crash Dummy
This is going to be hard to explain but here it goes. I went to the track and I could not get any consistent times because I would get tire spin so I used HPtuners scanner and used the fixed timing feature and removed timing so I could hold my gas pedal on the floor at 2000 rpm with no tire spin on my truck it was about -5 degrees at 2000 and my shifts never drop below 4800 rpm so I did a linear line from -5 degrees to full timing at 4800 rpm my 60' times went from 2.4-2.9 down to 1.9 on street tires with no spin and I did 1.9 60,s 11 runs in a row and my ET went from 13.9 down to 13.4 . So this gets better the next time I go to the track I decide to run slicks and full timing and I was not able to improve my 60' or 1/4 times at all over the street tire program with the timing removed. It all comes down to if you spin your tire for 1 second you will be a second slower and the only time the timing is removed is for the first 20 feet and this method is really no different than a slipper clutch on a fueler, you just need to keep the tires sticking to the pavement.
06-09-2006, 10:32 PM
#15
TECH Junkie
Pulling timing to reduce power at launching is pretty much how the traction control on our trucks works.The problem is that with a stock displacement Radix setup you run into a situation that you will either spin the tires or take off at part throttle then floor it.The best way[performancewise]to attack the problem is a sticky set of drag radials,then you will have to induce some tire spin to get your best performance.
06-10-2006, 12:41 AM
#16
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As wrong as this may look it works for me I hold the pedal on the floor and when I get the green I just release the brake and drive away I used -5 degrees of timing some may need a little more or less and you will also need to find how low your RPM drops on the shifts , mine falls to 4800-4900 rpm so once I hit 2nd gear I am at 20 the rest of the run. This is a track only deal and would run like crap on the street but like I said I ran 15 degrees and slicks and was not able to produce any better 60' or 1/4 time. I think the stock converter was hurting me with the slicks because I was unable to hit the converter hard enough with the stocker.I just match the high and low octane table in the lower half so driving to and from the pits is no problem. I ran 11 runs and every run produced a 1.9 60' and a 13.3-13.4 every run
, he was rocking many vehicles setup with slicks, myself included.. 
06-10-2006, 01:06 PM
#20
Originally Posted by Crash Dummy
Also being able to hold the gas pedal on the floor and release the brake on the green made it real consistent