I gotta ask. Why would you want todo this?

 

I'm striving for the most OEM look as possible. I could easily use an aftermarket gauge but to me it would look out of place. I like using GM parts where ever possible.

 

Cool just wondering. If it works out it could be pretty cool

 

As the pinout says "boost gauge signal" rather than serial data, I am guessing that it is a standard autometer gauge without the 2 extra wires providing a 0V and 5V reference to the MAP sensor...those are likely provided by the ECM. So the "signal" wire is likely 0-5V. Does the ECM pinout show a 5V ref going to the MAP sensor?...I am reading where some say it is actually something like 4.8V. Best to check the voltage to the sensor on an actual Cobalt so the calibration is not off.

 

I think I'm going to take an easier route and pick up a mechanical Ultra Lite ll gauge and swap the face and needle. I took the Cobalt gauge apart to see what's inside and there's a whole lot of circuitry inside. The bezel is crimped on but I carefully got it off without damaging anything.

 

Looks pretty typical. Here's an old Autometer boost gauge I had lying around.

 

Resurrection from the dead here. I finally got around to doing this. What I ended up doing is using an Autometer #4907 Ultra-lite II gauge.

OEM Cobalt SS gauge on the left, Ultra-lite on the right.



Using a tiny flat blade screwdriver I gently pried around the crimped bezel ring to get it off without kinking it. Here you can see inside the Cobalt gauge.



The Cobalt needle on the left didn’t match the needles on my Silverado and wouldn't fit on the Ultra-lite so I mix and matched the bits to give a happy medium.



Here you can see the back side. I had already removed the shaft/ collar from the Cobalt gauge. My plan was to take the needle from the Ultra-lite and put the Cobalt needle cover on it.



Obviously it wasn't going to fit but melting 2 keyways into the needle for the pins on the needle cover with a hot metal pick was fast and worked flawless.



A little dab of hot glue just to ensure the cap doesn't fall off and its ready to reassemble.



The Cobalt gauge face needed a bit of notching for the tabs to index, press the needle back on, I used the glass from the Ultra-lite as the Cobalt gauge was plastic and I also liked the Cobalt bezel ring as it was more of a satin chrome so that's what went back on. A little massaging to crimp the ring back on and it's ready to rock and roll GM style.




Now hopefully it doesn't take me almost 5 years to install it!