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Help! Truck's slow :( Logs inside

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Old 11-02-2011, 07:39 PM
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Ouch! haha

Reading through the HPT forum and just giving it a try.

What's wrong with it that makes you say that? I'm looking for real feedback or I'll never get better.
Old 11-02-2011, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AJII
Ouch! haha

Reading through the HPT forum and just giving it a try.

What's wrong with it that makes you say that? I'm looking for real feedback or I'll never get better.
I will lend a hand and see how it goes.
I have a test to knock out first
Old 11-02-2011, 07:52 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Just my opinion, but WOT tuning is very easy. Make sure fuel is where you want it with the wideband and timing is where you want it and you are all set. The sometimes more difficult part is part-throttle tuning, which is time consuming and unless you have a dyno to use for timing adjustment will never be "perfect". I use that loosely because making peak torque at part throttle is not really the end goal as much as pure driveability. Need more torque, just mash the throttle harder.

What really sets the tuners apart is injector tuning with big, non-stock injectors and big camshafts. Add on turbos and it gets even hairier since a load cell is now dependent on engine speed, manifold pressure, and throttle. All of which change with engine load. The further you deviate from stock is where experience more than anything comes into play and the need to utilize more and more of the pcm tables. Getting the experience is then the hard part, and most tuners are not teachers, nor would they want to be since that is how they make their living. Im just rambling now, but your setup is close enough to stock to not need any magic and is just as good as any professional tuner would be able to do it, assuming your part throttle driving is fine. Which then leads me to think the only thing that can be slowing you down are mechanically related, ie, high IATs, dirty valves, small headers, weak ignition, etc. If the wideband says you are good, then there is no point in replacing the MAF since all it does is control fueling (and measures IAT in our case, but if you zerod the spark adjust table, it doesnt do anything), and is just a sensor after all....but then you can get into the debate on which do you trust, the wideband or the MAF? Assuming they are both reasonably correct is a fair assumption IMO.
Old 11-02-2011, 07:56 PM
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compression test?
Old 11-02-2011, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CalEditor@PCMCalibrators
I will lend a hand and see how it goes.
I have a test to knock out first
Thanks for helping me out

Originally Posted by Atomic
Just my opinion, but WOT tuning is very easy. Make sure fuel is where you want it with the wideband and timing is where you want it and you are all set. The sometimes more difficult part is part-throttle tuning, which is time consuming and unless you have a dyno to use for timing adjustment will never be "perfect". I use that loosely because making peak torque at part throttle is not really the end goal as much as pure driveability. Need more torque, just mash the throttle harder.

What really sets the tuners apart is injector tuning with big, non-stock injectors and big camshafts. Add on turbos and it gets even hairier since a load cell is now dependent on engine speed, manifold pressure, and throttle. All of which change with engine load. The further you deviate from stock is where experience more than anything comes into play and the need to utilize more and more of the pcm tables. Getting the experience is then the hard part, and most tuners are not teachers, nor would they want to be since that is how they make their living. Im just rambling now, but your setup is close enough to stock to not need any magic and is just as good as any professional tuner would be able to do it, assuming your part throttle driving is fine. Which then leads me to think the only thing that can be slowing you down are mechanically related, ie, high IATs, dirty valves, small headers, weak ignition, etc. If the wideband says you are good, then there is no point in replacing the MAF since all it does is control fueling (and measures IAT in our case, but if you zerod the spark adjust table, it doesnt do anything), and is just a sensor after all....but then you can get into the debate on which do you trust, the wideband or the MAF? Assuming they are both reasonably correct is a fair assumption IMO.
I agree with you. I do not feel that my tune is crap as it runs well, doesn't cut out, drivability is awesome, and it nets decent gas mileage. I also tune Garrett's truck, and it runs pretty good. So I feel as if I have some idea as to what I'm doing, but was just looking for guidance, as I've had HPT <1 year.

I like getting the opinions of others on this as most here have much more experience than I, and have no reason to tell me anything other than the truth. Nope, most professional (and I use that term loosely for most) won't share anything with you, but I value the opinions of those that will, as this is their livelihood, so they have a pretty good grasp as to what's what.

Truck feels like it runs fine, so I'm guessing that I just need to tweak it some more, and add some more mods. But I am looking forward to ideas that PCMeditors has.

And while we're on the topic, how do I test the MAF against the wideband to see if they are both accurate?
Old 11-02-2011, 08:24 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Well ideally you would run your wideband along side a known, accurate wideband. And by that I mean AFM1000 or better, but you usually only find those on dynos since most people dont buy $1000 widebands. If the "accurate" one agrees with yours, then your wideband is fine. Any by your wideband being fine you know the sensor controlling the fueling (MAF, in this case) is also accurate since the airflow model produced by that sensor is accurate as seen by the air fuel ratio error read by the wideband.

Any type of error associated with the MAF could be corrected by tuning its calibration curve, so really the MAF can never be "wrong", just out of calibration or not working at all. Tuning, is by definition, correcting that calibration.

As a side note, when I couldnt get my white truck to start last week I called John at FIC, who I bought my injectors from. He was extremely helpful and sent me all the injector data (using the same injectors) from a tune he did personally last week. Obviously his data worked great and I ended up calling him 3 times for guidance on what to try to get my truck working. Most "professional tuners" arent as helpful as him, but I was pleasantly surprised he was so helpful even though he didnt have to be.
Old 11-02-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Well ideally you would run your wideband along side a known, accurate wideband. And by that I mean AFM1000 or better, but you usually only find those on dynos since most people dont buy $1000 widebands. If the "accurate" one agrees with yours, then your wideband is fine. Any by your wideband being fine you know the sensor controlling the fueling (MAF, in this case) is also accurate since the airflow model produced by that sensor is accurate as seen by the air fuel ratio error read by the wideband.

Any type of error associated with the MAF could be corrected by tuning its calibration curve, so really the MAF can never be "wrong", just out of calibration or not working at all. Tuning, is by definition, correcting that calibration.

As a side note, when I couldnt get my white truck to start last week I called John at FIC, who I bought my injectors from. He was extremely helpful and sent me all the injector data (using the same injectors) from a tune he did personally last week. Obviously his data worked great and I ended up calling him 3 times for guidance on what to try to get my truck working. Most "professional tuners" arent as helpful as him, but I was pleasantly surprised he was so helpful even though he didnt have to be.
I have used Zeitronix and never had an issue.
Old 11-02-2011, 10:21 PM
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I first set all of my switches and constants in the tune.
Switches are Calibration Options like EGR, LTFT enable, TCC on shifts, shift light, abuse mode, and I could go on.

Constants are setting that have 1 number like PE delay time, number of fans, cylinder Volume, Stoich. These need to be set before you adjust the tables!

You must set these first.

Why is your target AFR 14.68? Do you run pump gas that is E10%. If so set it to 14.14

Airflow NEVER stalls or drops. If the Hz goes up you are flowing more air. Start over on the MAF xfer or put the stock Xfer back in and get all the base settings done first and then go back to it.


below is info from a stock calibration
SWITCHES:

Calibration Options

X EGR System Enable (X = Enabled)
X TCC Lock During Shift (X = Enabled)
0 Manual Shift Mode Option (X = Enabled)
0 C.A.R.S. Option (X = Enabled)
X Abuse Mode Option (X = Enabled)
0 Flash Checksum Option (X = Disabled)
0 VATS Fail-Enabled Option (X = Enabled)
X Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) Enable
0 Shift Light Function Enable (X=Enabled)
0 Shift Light PCM Out Enable (X=Enabled)
X Engine Speed Governor (X = Enabled)
X A/C Auto Recirculation Option
0 Column Lock Option (X = Enabled)
X 4 Wheel Drive Option
X Two Bank Fuel Control Option
0 Fuel Gauge PWM Output Enable
[
Old 11-02-2011, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by CalEditor@PCMCalibrators
I have used Zeitronix and never had an issue.
I didnt say any brand was particularly bad, my point was merely how the widebands most of us buy (me included) are an entry-level type sensor like the innovative, plx, ngk, zietronix, etc. You just do not have the accuracy of the lab-grade sensors that fall into the $1000+ price bracket, and entry-level performance should be expected for an entry-level price. This is not to say our widebands are bad, most of which are accurate enough for our use, but it begs the question of how accurate they really are compared to more accurate sensors and reality.


I am curious why you mess with the fuel gauge though?
Old 11-02-2011, 10:34 PM
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Put the MAF xfer back to stock
Change the stoich to 14.14
Put the O2 switching points back to stock
Fix the PE vs TPS tables
I will see if I can't find a file that you can use to copy from


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