dyno tuned but has stalling issues
#1
I have a 99 Sierra single cab with an L33-4l80 swap. it has a few things done to it, most important of which to this issue is it has a BTR STG 4 truck cam, Its been dyno tuned by a reputable tuner but still has some issues with street manners. Like I'm having trouble getting it started cold without blipping the throttle a bit. I keep adding airflow through hp tuners but still acts like it cant be bothered to find idle and stay running. That's one issue, the other is when I'm coming to a stop, every once in a while the idle surges and it stalls out and then extended cranks and starts. driving down the road it acts great, even if it just sitting at idle it acts fine but I'm not sure if I need to get a vacuum canister to help maintain vacuum when braking or if I need to keep adding more airflow. At this point I feel like I've added at least 25% to the airflow table since its been tuned and it still acts like half a retard at times. If there's anything I'm leaving out that would help you help me, please let me know. I'd like to get this sorted out sooner or later or im just gonna start over and turbo it with speed density. Attached below is my tune file, I've since added about 15% airflow to that.
#2
The word 'reputable' is heavily misused these days. I'd check the file if I weren't stuck at work.
Nutshell: you need more airflow in the throttle follower, more airflow in the cracker. The decays for them need to be cut in half at least. Stock idle spark correction tables in half to start. More base idle spark, higher than stock. Base running airflow is good with an extra 25%.
If you paid $200 for that job, you might have got what you paid for. Anybody in the 500 and up range though, they should be addressing driveability. I fix these things all the time after they roll out of a 'reputable' tooner shop...
Nutshell: you need more airflow in the throttle follower, more airflow in the cracker. The decays for them need to be cut in half at least. Stock idle spark correction tables in half to start. More base idle spark, higher than stock. Base running airflow is good with an extra 25%.
If you paid $200 for that job, you might have got what you paid for. Anybody in the 500 and up range though, they should be addressing driveability. I fix these things all the time after they roll out of a 'reputable' tooner shop...
#4
I should say i work at a performance shop centered mostly around mustangs myself and my boss/tuner is too busy to get to it so i took it to a known gm shop and gave him $100 for 3 or 4 pulls on a saturday morning. I will take a look at the cracker and follower and see whats what.
#6
it ran out of stock injectors, so I put deatschwerks 80# in it, I ordered a turbo kit and it probably wont be long before its put on. I didn't want to have to buy injectors more than one time. I had the same situation with the fuel pump, ran out of pump and upgraded that too in preparation for going turbo.
#7
What part number are they?
Deatschwerks doesn't make a 80lb/hr injector for the trucks, they are 72's or 95's.
Just looking at the data for those two injectors you have a few things wrong. The short pulse adder, short pulse limit and the offset data all look wrong. The injector flow rate is wrong too.
Deatschwerks doesn't make a 80lb/hr injector for the trucks, they are 72's or 95's.
Just looking at the data for those two injectors you have a few things wrong. The short pulse adder, short pulse limit and the offset data all look wrong. The injector flow rate is wrong too.
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