Just tried the resistors between the green and white wire inside the yellow wrap, nothing worked. Tried 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 10ohm resistors in parallel, so thats 10, 5, 3.33, 2.5, and 2 ohms. The light blinks for a bit then stays on...shorting it also did not work.

 

I think the system looks for 120 or 170 ohms resistance on the circuitry. I'm pulling this number out of thin air but that's what I recall the detonators measuring.

Google turns up the resistance being in the 1<X<2 ohm range.

 

You'll need to remove the shorting bar to insert the resistance, otherwise it won't do anything.

 

Oh wtf, do you know where along the path that shorting bar is? The air bag module is under the driver seat isnt it?

I just fixed the ABS light with a piece of electrical tape over the bulb

 

Well, there's going to be one on both sides of the clockspring, it will be in the steering wheel. Probably in the connector for the airbag itself. Its likely a spring-release type thing that when you pull the plug out, the metal spring comes down to cross the terminals and ground them out. I've never taken one apart specifically, but I've seen connectors like that before.

 

I cut the yellow wire a few inches before the steering wheel and peeled the wires back and cut the insulation off the green and white wires and put the resistor there. I have some 500ohm resistors laying around, so 3 of those in parallel should be 167, so lets give that a try...

 

I can do a resistance test to a working module tomorrow so I can give you an accurate answer. Most of what I'm reading is the detonators for the modules are 1 to 2 ohms resistance, which would make 120+ too high.

 

The shorting bar is built into all air bag connectors. The idea is to bring the circuits together to eliminate any possible stray voltage or static electricity getting sent into the circuit and popping the air bag. Thats probably why the steering wheel air bag didn't ohm out either.

On your ABS light if you need a EBCM the cheapest place to get one is from the salvage yard. I got the entire assemble, EBCM and BPMV and all for $100. Took the EBCM off and swapped them out and its worked perfect for about 3 1/2 years now. The BPMV is your brake pressure modulator valve or the ABS pump and valve assembly.

 

So I revisited this today when I had my seat out so I could get directly to the module. I tried 4 ohms and 160ohms on the two wires, but neither work. I ended up just cutting the wire on the back of the cluster on the circuit board to the light would not come on.

Now to figure out why my 4wd light doesnt work...