Wow... did you see if the catalytic converters are ok??? I wonder if there is a problem with the Ecu and the injectors drivers cutting fuel...

 

The catalytic converter looked fine to me, it wasn't broken and didn't seem clogged, but im no expert on them. Either way, they are off now and its still the same. Tell me more about the ecu and injector drivers. I just don't know where to go next. I really really appreciate your help man.

 

I think its your fuel pump or filter. Does it get worse after the truck has been running for a while? fuel pump. I drove my 00 for about a year like this before the pump went out on the freeway and my truck shut off.

 

In side the ECU there are many components. its kinda hard to explain but they all work together and if one isn't working properly it will cause issues. I don't know why but I have actually seen 2 bad ecu's on these types of trucks in the past month. One was on this forum the other was at the shop next door. With out actually seeing the vehical its hard to diagnose over the net. Like I said if the vehical checks out mechanically and you have replaced things like the inline filter and the regulator, There has to be another reason... I would not condemn it just yet. There maybe other things to consider... just have to think about it.

 

I have replaced the filter and regulator. I was thinking fuel pump also, but it doesn't get worse after driving, it actually gets a little better, but stilll seems short on power. Im thinking a computer swap and see what happens. One curious thing to note, is the cover for the computer is missing, so perhaps that has been tampered with. Im just assuming the 99s had covers over the ecu, my buddies 05 does. How much is a used computer worth?

 

Depends who you get it from. Seen them as low as $50 to $100 range used. There is a guy who sell reman units with the latest calibration for around $110 shipped on eBay.

 

Yes the computers do have a cover over them.

Fuel pumps that have the proper pressure as your does don't cause the issue you described when you jump on it.

The at idle issue is the throttle body 100% with out a doubt. There is an air divert valve below the throttle position sensor that becomes pluged with a gummy carbon suit. That valve opens and close to allow more or less air through to correct the idle. When it becomes plugged it can not correct the idle properly so as you snap the throttle open and then closed, especially with a load on the engine like the Ac while the vehical is sitting there, it will kill the engine because there is not enough air bypassing the blade. It basically floods the engine...

 

Ok. Is this the idle air control valve that your talkin about? Could it be causing the ecu to pull timing to -14btdc for a half second with the blip of the throttle? That's one major difference I found when comparing to my ls1. The ls1 stays between 12°-40°. This truck likes to momentarily dip to the negative 14 or so region and bounce back suddenly, like when you just blip the throttle.

 

On the reman ecu's, could I still be able to use a handheld to adjust parameters as needed? Or any other tuned ecu for that matter? Like id like to get one tuned for what I got now (shorter tires and stuff) but id like to be able to still change it down the road with a predator tuner or somethin. I've got a predator for my ls1, and I like it.

 

No its just an electronic valve the alows air to bypass the blade to controll the idle function as no affect on driveability. I am not sure if your able to see knock with your scan tool but, something like knock could pull the timing.