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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by custm2500
6500 sounds scary at 200,000mi.
Anything regardless of miles using the old style rods sounds scary at 6500k how many custm engine builds have u done? I'm not talking junk yard engines....assembly from a bare block.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #52  
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alright, say I went with a stock 6.0L, just custom tune and longtubes for now. Should I even bother with a built 4l60e or swap to a 4l80. I know with the 80e the crossmember has to be changed, how about the driveshaft? Also, if I was to go with a built 60e, what would need to be changed on the engine itself to run the 60e.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 07:04 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by outlawz2004
Not going turbo for sure. Not ready for that route. Its more than likely going to be engine swap with upgrades. OK, with daily driver in mind, plus the fact it will have a 100 shot on it for when I need it, what cam and stall for:
5.3 with new trans-
6.0 with new trans-

Something that sounds good but will get down the road on the low end and still make power in the midrange and top end.

pretty sure I'm going with 4:56s in rear.
100 shot when I need it.

4.56s huh? Myself, I'd find out who's runnin them & what their combos are. That's a lotta gear. And while I forgot what your exact ETs were / are, I know it was 14 sumthin. For grins, say u'r at 14.4; a decent cam could net a few tenths. I wanna say I trimmed .3 if not .4 cam alone. I'd say goin to 4.10s would net another .1-.2 from your current gear based on what others have gotten.

Originally Posted by Bluchevypick
WOW, Well for the FIRST time i have to go on Custm2500 side. My last turbo set up i built myself, i might and i mean might have spent 1500-2000 dollars building it. Hell even this turbo setup wont cost much either.

Precision billet turbos = 1400 shipped
turbosmart 38mm wg = 200 shipped
turbosmart 50mm BOV = 200 shipped
A2W intercooler setup = 550 shipped
log manifolds = 400 shipped
Misc parts and couplers = 300 shipped

Thats only a total of 3050 dollars and thats for twins. Its all in shopping and waiting for good deals to come along.
I know outlawz isn't goin turbo but...what bout hot side cost?

Originally Posted by custm2500
Since you want to stay N/A the cubes rule. Nitrous dose make up for cubes but a nitrous kit is cheap to add to any N/A set up.

Just think of it this way, say a 5.3 costs 700. If you can find a 6.0 for as 1100 or less you are already ahead. A cam will cost at minimum $300 and the whole job often costs $1000 if you do it correctly. So lets say you only stab a cam you are maybe making the same power the 6.0 makes stock and you have lost one opportunity to upgrade the 6.0 with it's own cam. There just is no two ways to look at it unless the 6.0 is twice as much as a 5.3.


As for modding the 4.8 ... Squeeze the **** out of it(200+) and see what happens. Get some headers, exhaust, maybe a NNBS intake. They will all swap over the the 6.0 if you ever blow the 4.8 up. Just don't waste money on a cam right now because it will probably not be well suited for any future engine swaps.
I can understand tryin to match a cam to a 6L rather than tailor to 4.8.
But cost of whole cam swap sounds familiar... oh ya, didn't I mention that earlier?
I really gotta say tho, a 200+ shot on a 200K mile 4.8 sounds like a bad idea. I hope tune is spot on. U ever sprayed 200+ on a hi mileage motor? Just askin.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 07:21 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by outlawz2004
Got 4-5000 to spend tops.

Keep the 200,000 mile 4.8(doesnt smoke or leak a drop)
cam it(which one)
100 shot of nitrous (wet)
new transmission with higher stall and lower gears in rear end

or
lower mileage 5.3
cammed(which one)
nitrous
new trans with higher stall and lower gears in rear.

Don't want to go 6.0L for budget reasons, unless I can find one under $1000. Tons of 5.3s for sale between $5-700.

I need this thing to drive daily, behave decent in traffic from time to time, and not overheat in traffic. I live in the country so my daily drive doesn't involve much stop and go, other than the line dropping off my son at school. When I do drive in the city, the traffic isn't usually terrible around here. My goal is to have a daily driver that will run at least 13s at the track and on the street without the nitrous. Currently running mid 14s with the 4.8 with minimal mods so I don't think that goal will be hard to achieve. I want this thing to pull hard off the line when I hammer it but drive decent when taking it easy. I want it to idle, not have to two foot it at red lights. Give me some suggestions guys.
How close to $5k are you willing to go?

If it were me, I'd buy the h/c ls1 longblock TXS is selling in the classifieds. Ive seen a few yank converters for sale in the classifieds, lately. I'd take a look at those also.

I had my 60e built for $1250. Billet servos, beast sunshell, wider drum band, zpack clutches, shift kit, and a few more things I'm forgetting. It holds up good behind my cammed 6.0. I'm not an idiot though. I don't do endless burnouts, hot lap it at the track, or race it 20 times a night. So depending on how you drive it would dictate what trans you'd want.

I'd run my 78mm intake for the time being. Just until I was able to pick up a tbss intake, 90mm tb, and a xlink.

I wouldn't touch the gears. 3.73s with 26" tires are not going to hook for **** on the street with any kind of decent power going to the street.

If you didn't want that ls1, I'd say look for a lq4/lq9. The only 5.3 I'd go with is a gen IV. Then you'd have to **** with the harness conversion and the afm/vvt delete.

Imo, $5k is a nice budget. There are a lot of good deals in the classifieds right now on here and tech. No reason you couldn't get the setup you're after.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 09:45 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu

I can understand tryin to match a cam to a 6L rather than tailor to 4.8.
But cost of whole cam swap sounds familiar... oh ya, didn't I mention that earlier?
I really gotta say tho, a 200+ shot on a 200K mile 4.8 sounds like a bad idea. I hope tune is spot on. U ever sprayed 200+ on a hi mileage motor? Just askin.
I sprayed 100 on 230,000+. There are plenty of F-bodies that are running 200,250 and I think some are above 250 regardless of miles. I know some of the higher HP guys have atleast 100,000 miles. The point of the 200+ shot isn't that we 100% expect it to last forever. But the beauty of it is that he can have a very quick 4.8 for a wile if not a long time and not spend a ton of money doing it. If or when she does give then he has most of his budget to drop the 6.0 in and squeeze it with 100-200 as he pleases.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 09:20 AM
  #56  
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from what I understand, with a 2001 and up 6.0L I can use the stock flywheel from my 4.8L with the built 4l60e.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 12:37 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by custm2500
I sprayed 100 on 230,000+. There are plenty of F-bodies that are running 200,250 and I think some are above 250 regardless of miles. I know some of the higher HP guys have atleast 100,000 miles. The point of the 200+ shot isn't that we 100% expect it to last forever. But the beauty of it is that he can have a very quick 4.8 for a wile if not a long time and not spend a ton of money doing it. If or when she does give then he has most of his budget to drop the 6.0 in and squeeze it with 100-200 as he pleases.
While u have sprayed a 100 shot, I asked if u ever sprayed 200+. Can u spray it, then let us know how it turns out?

Again, those guys you've heard of, runnin 200, 250 or more, tune is spot on.

IDK, call it crazy, but rather than (possibly) hurt a 4.8, I hope outlaw starts small then builds from there. He could keep his 4.8 together longer by bein more conservative, & find a 6L. Then, offset that cost by sellin the 4.8 that should be still OK, not blown up & just worth scrap.

Originally Posted by outlawz2004
alright, say I went with a stock 6.0L, just custom tune and longtubes for now. Should I even bother with a built 4l60e or swap to a 4l80. I know with the 80e the crossmember has to be changed, how about the driveshaft? Also, if I was to go with a built 60e, what would need to be changed on the engine itself to run the 60e.
Originally Posted by outlawz2004
from what I understand, with a 2001 and up 6.0L I can use the stock flywheel from my 4.8L with the built 4l60e.
I feel a built 60E can last. I give mine a workout. It's seen more than its' share of hard street launches, & while true, no track, it's comin really soon. I shouldn't have any worries tho. Anyway, I wanna say driveshaft is shortened when goin to 80E, but what that distance is escapes me. I know I've read it before, I wanna say nonni or silver-mod-o can tell u. 5/8" maybe, but confirm, don't take my memory on this as correct.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 12:52 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by fastnblu
I feel a built 60E can last. I give mine a workout. It's seen more than its' share of hard street launches, & while true, no track, it's comin really soon. I shouldn't have any worries tho. Anyway, I wanna say driveshaft is shortened when goin to 80E, but what that distance is escapes me. I know I've read it before, I wanna say nonni or silver-mod-o can tell u. 5/8" maybe, but confirm, don't take my memory on this as correct.
Got to thinking about the driveshaft, since I have a two piece shaft I should be able to adjust it enough to make up the difference. I think I will try a built 60e though, performabuilt or FLT.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #59  
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Didn't even think of the 2pc.

If that's the case on your choice of builders, I think it'll last a bit. I thought u were gonna just go local builder. I feel when Vince, was at FLT, he built me a solid unit. I'd put it up against any builder of 6xE trannies. Not sure how hardcore u wanna go (spend) on trans, but if u spend $3K, then u can see their 80E is bout same price. after that, it's 80E tune segment, wiring, x-member & whatever u do for d/shaft. But, if it's shortened, balancing would be on my list. I'd think if u go the 80E route, if buyin a x-member, it'll cost more than the driveshaft modding. Just tryin to present u w/. ideas, not wavering on my choice of FLT as a builder. I just didn't wanna dink w/. 80E conversion. Plus, at the time, & this was a big part, a core was, well alot. Alot.
Now, a few yrs. have gone by, cores can likely be found cheaper. In fact, junkyard 80's are too, as someone recently told me.

Also, sorry but I haven't sprayed on mine yet, since I don't have a kit, yet. U can ask custm2500 or someone their input on spray. But as I'm already boosted, I got go crazy as someone N/A. I won't go beyond 75 shot. But, I'll start at 35, then try 50, & maybe try a 75 shot. All depends on how I see my E.T.s drop, as it relates to my goal(s).
Cause I've got a number in mind, south of 13 sec.

Last edited by fastnblu; Oct 21, 2012 at 01:48 PM. Reason: Info. added.
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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 01:13 PM
  #60  
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ok, what you would take out of these two setups: Please tweak them if you feel there is a better setup for daily driver/occasional trip to lumber yard/pull a trailer every so often.

5.3L
either a 212/218 or a tsp220/7.4 pushrods/springs
built trans (4l60e)with 3000 stall
4.56s with locker
tuned/longtubes/K&N fipk/most likely will have a 100 wet shot

or
6.0L with stock cam
tuned/longtubes/k&N fipk/and the 100 shot
built trans(4l60e) with 3000 stall
4.56s with locker
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