help me decide
#13
Got 4-5000 to spend tops.
Keep the 200,000 mile 4.8(doesnt smoke or leak a drop)
cam it(which one)
100 shot of nitrous (wet)
new transmission with higher stall and lower gears in rear end
or
lower mileage 5.3
cammed(which one)
nitrous
new trans with higher stall and lower gears in rear.
Don't want to go 6.0L for budget reasons, unless I can find one under $1000. Tons of 5.3s for sale between $5-700.
I need this thing to drive daily, behave decent in traffic from time to time, and not overheat in traffic. I live in the country so my daily drive doesn't involve much stop and go, other than the line dropping off my son at school. When I do drive in the city, the traffic isn't usually terrible around here. My goal is to have a daily driver that will run at least 13s at the track and on the street without the nitrous. Currently running mid 14s with the 4.8 with minimal mods so I don't think that goal will be hard to achieve. I want this thing to pull hard off the line when I hammer it but drive decent when taking it easy. I want it to idle, not have to two foot it at red lights. Give me some suggestions guys.
Keep the 200,000 mile 4.8(doesnt smoke or leak a drop)
cam it(which one)
100 shot of nitrous (wet)
new transmission with higher stall and lower gears in rear end
or
lower mileage 5.3
cammed(which one)
nitrous
new trans with higher stall and lower gears in rear.
Don't want to go 6.0L for budget reasons, unless I can find one under $1000. Tons of 5.3s for sale between $5-700.
I need this thing to drive daily, behave decent in traffic from time to time, and not overheat in traffic. I live in the country so my daily drive doesn't involve much stop and go, other than the line dropping off my son at school. When I do drive in the city, the traffic isn't usually terrible around here. My goal is to have a daily driver that will run at least 13s at the track and on the street without the nitrous. Currently running mid 14s with the 4.8 with minimal mods so I don't think that goal will be hard to achieve. I want this thing to pull hard off the line when I hammer it but drive decent when taking it easy. I want it to idle, not have to two foot it at red lights. Give me some suggestions guys.
Sounds like MPG doesn't really matter or regular drag use but run the number N/A, so this ...
U want gears, do 4.10s as goin up to a 3.73 may not be noticeable. I was alwys told go up 2 steps from current gear when debating perspective gear choice. That should make it snappy.
Gears of choice $200
Posi: Truetrac or Eaton $400
Labor & install kit say $400 Grand Total here: $1000
Stall. Get that CircleD reworked TB conv. ***** out, a bad boy unit from them or Yank, $1000. $400-1000
Spray: Most kits w/. most of the goodies u'd likely want, barring some extreme examples: $1000 tops
Cam: $3-400
Here's where I'd get some extra parts, on the cam swap. Spend & get some decent pushrods (I think a great idea on even a NA buikld, let alone NOS.)
$100
LS6 springs: These are a song. What, say $50-150
Your mileage, I'd do LS2 chain $70, I forgot maybe as much as $150
Maybe LS7 lifters if yours are hit.
That's just cheap insurance to me (prods, springs, chain)
Total cam swap: $750 ish
Tranny: Transgo Shift Kit, some servos $250
Not sure how crazy u wanna go, but tranny could blow budget depending how how far into rebuild u go, so it's kinda openended there.
Overbudget then go from there, budgets are tuff to stick to. U almost always go over. Way over.
Fluids, gaskets. any labor u can't or don't do.
Then, u still need a tune to tie all tog.
Every 6.0L I have found has been close to $2000 or had a ton of miles on it. The 5.3s are plentiful. I am going to keep looking for the next month, maybe I will run across a 6.0 for a decent price. Remember this budget is for everything, including a trans and tq convertor.
#14
If you have 4000 why are you afraid of the 6.0? You should easily be able to find one under $1000. Then tune it and you will be at the same price as the 5.3 with a cam and tune or less. Making the same power probably and should be a bit more torque.
If it were me I would build a turbo for the 4.8, should be able to build a custom set up for $3000 or so if you can do most of the work. If she blows then you have 1000+ to find another engine.
If it were me I would build a turbo for the 4.8, should be able to build a custom set up for $3000 or so if you can do most of the work. If she blows then you have 1000+ to find another engine.
If he does labor, & no ancilliary cam parts, $400 (smaller & cam) vs $1000 (6L).
That said, if I felt a 6L would hurt my MPG, while it might not matter to some, incl. OP, it does to me. I do almost no HWY. So what I do can have profound effects on mileage. I hate doin things 2x, & always wonder if I'd done a 6L b4 blower went in, how much I'd really gain powerwise vs MPG to prevent takin everything off just for more cubes. Assuming I could build it as I want, w/. parts I want, & I had the time while it was down, if only say .5 MPG, that's an easy one. But if it's a 1.5-2 MPG hit, I just couldn't do it at this stage of life financially on my DD.
No matter how much power.
Agreed. It's been said for yrs.

But boost is a great equalizer. But that normally applies to a boosted appl. vs a built, N/A setup. Cubes or not.

Aww snap. I almost LOL'd, "maybe I missed the thread", comment.
Last edited by fastnblu; Oct 16, 2012 at 07:00 PM.
#15
I already swapped in 3.73s and a locker two years ago, they did help alot over the 3.42s but could be better.
Here's kinda the path I want to take after looking at alot of things and budget.
decent mileage 5.3
Throw in a cam, springs, rods
swap over my longtubes and K&N
100 wet shot.
New trans with upgrades, higher stall and servos, shift kit, tranny cooler
4:56s in rear with locker.
declad the chrome GM 18s I just bought and put on some good tires that will hook up.
The 4.8 runs pretty good and I have been pleased with it most of the time, so the extra power from the 5.3 combined with the cam and trans upgrades/lower gears should be fun for a few years. I will have the 100 shot for a little extra when I need it or a fun day at the track. I did find some decent mileage 6.0s today doing some heavy searching, so that option is still on the table.
Here's kinda the path I want to take after looking at alot of things and budget.
decent mileage 5.3
Throw in a cam, springs, rods
swap over my longtubes and K&N
100 wet shot.
New trans with upgrades, higher stall and servos, shift kit, tranny cooler
4:56s in rear with locker.
declad the chrome GM 18s I just bought and put on some good tires that will hook up.
The 4.8 runs pretty good and I have been pleased with it most of the time, so the extra power from the 5.3 combined with the cam and trans upgrades/lower gears should be fun for a few years. I will have the 100 shot for a little extra when I need it or a fun day at the track. I did find some decent mileage 6.0s today doing some heavy searching, so that option is still on the table.
#16
Dude, WTF are you talking about. $3000 my ***. I'm planning on spending probably twice that, and it's a basic setup. I've had Smokeshow tell me what he spend on turbo'ing his old Ex. Cab and my eyeballs almost popped out of my head.
#17
Outlaw, with your req's in your first post, the 6.0 longblock is the way to go. Cubes rule. You'll be way under your budget too. 13s will be easy with no cam needed and will provide perfect (stock like) driveability. I ran 13.73 with a stock LQ9, longtubes, Yank PT3600 (big billet 10.5" converter for FI NOT N/A), and 4.10s/trutrac. On street tires to with a 2.0+ 60'. On sticky tires it could have been low 13s...
#18
A stock for stk. 6L vs. 4.8/5.3 would likely be a gain of say what, ~30 hp, 40 ft. lbs. The tune is there regardless of cubes, so that is moot. If only a cam, no springs / no pushrods, no nothin, I gotta say most cam are gonna be ~$3-400. Round here, a 6L is $6-800, if not $1000 for a decent, hi mileage unit.
If he does labor, & no ancilliary cam parts, $400 (smaller & cam) vs $1000 (6L).
That said, if I felt a 6L would hurt my MPG, while it might not matter to some, incl. OP, it does to me. I do almost no HWY. So what I do can have profound effects on mileage. I hate doin things 2x, & always wonder if I'd done a 6L b4 blower went in, how much I'd really gain powerwise vs MPG to prevent takin everything off just for more cubes. Assuming I could build it as I want, w/. parts I want, & I had the time while it was down, if only say .5 MPG, that's an easy one. But if it's a 1.5-2 MPG hit, I just couldn't do it at this stage of life financially on my DD.
No matter how much power.
Agreed. It's been said for yrs.
But boost is a great equalizer. But that normally applies to a boosted appl. vs a built, N/A setup. Cubes or not.
Not sure of your bias, but u aren't boosted, so u musta meant biased in terms of more cubes.
Aww snap. I almost LOL'd, "maybe I missed the thread", comment.
If he does labor, & no ancilliary cam parts, $400 (smaller & cam) vs $1000 (6L).
That said, if I felt a 6L would hurt my MPG, while it might not matter to some, incl. OP, it does to me. I do almost no HWY. So what I do can have profound effects on mileage. I hate doin things 2x, & always wonder if I'd done a 6L b4 blower went in, how much I'd really gain powerwise vs MPG to prevent takin everything off just for more cubes. Assuming I could build it as I want, w/. parts I want, & I had the time while it was down, if only say .5 MPG, that's an easy one. But if it's a 1.5-2 MPG hit, I just couldn't do it at this stage of life financially on my DD.
No matter how much power.
Agreed. It's been said for yrs.

But boost is a great equalizer. But that normally applies to a boosted appl. vs a built, N/A setup. Cubes or not.

Not sure of your bias, but u aren't boosted, so u musta meant biased in terms of more cubes.
Aww snap. I almost LOL'd, "maybe I missed the thread", comment.

#19
I have read a few turbo set ups that were put together for around $3000. One of the guys with a manifold flip who recently just got done. Said he could probably do it around $2500 because the first time it took the $3000 but much of that was ordering and paying shipping 2 and 3 times. Also having parts he didn't need in the end.
#20
I have read a few turbo set ups that were put together for around $3000. One of the guys with a manifold flip who recently just got done. Said he could probably do it around $2500 because the first time it took the $3000 but much of that was ordering and paying shipping 2 and 3 times. Also having parts he didn't need in the end.
Last edited by TXSZ66AVLANCHE; Oct 16, 2012 at 08:40 PM.


