Thanks a lot everyone, I really appreciate the help. Have a good weekend.

 

No .. we had to use an allan wrench to get them off.

 

hmm...thats odd, my 03 has 15mm external, and 8mm internal. and every tranny ive ever taken out to build, newer than 02 had them. the ones you use a hex on is tough to get out sometimes. theres a new bolt to use, heres the p/n if you have the old, and want to replace with the new ones.

Info - Release of New Torque Converter Bolt #01-07-30-007 - (Feb 15, 2001)
Release of New Torque Converter Bolt
2001 Cadillac Escalade

1998-2001 Chevrolet Camaro

1998-2001 Pontiac Firebird

1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K (New Style) Pickup and Utility Models

Model
Engine/Transmission

2001 Cadillac Escalade
With Hydra-Matic 4L80-E (RPO MT1) Automatic Transmission

1998-2001 Chevrolet Camaro
With 5.7L Engine (VIN G - RPO LS1) and Hydra-Matic 4L60E (RPO M30) Automatic Transmission

1998-2001 Pontiac Firebird

1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K (New Style) Pickup & Utility Models
With Hydra-Matic 4L60-E, 4L80-E (RPOs M30, MT1) or Allison 1000 (RPO M74) Automatic Transmissions


This bulletin is to inform dealers of the release of a new torque converter bolt, P/N 11519291, for the transmissions listed above.

When replacing or servicing the torque converter bolts, technicians may find that the bolts may be difficult to remove. In some cases, the internal allen slot of the bolt head may be "rounded out" when attempting to remove the bolt. If the torque converter bolts are damaged during removal and must be replaced, use only P/N 11519291. This new bolt has an external and internal hex head design for ease of removal.

Tighten
Tighten the torque converter bolts to 60 N·m (44 lb ft).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description

11519291
Bolt, Torque Converter


Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

 

that sucks then, theres a tsb about them bolts, and rounding out, and not being able to retorque them correctly, i was lucky to have 15mm's on mine.

 

Dug this up this morning. I'm going to attempt the converter and header install this Friday. Got my uncles heated garage booked for the day. ("house" garage, not "shop/business" garage).

Unfortunately, I'll be doing this 90% by myself, but I'll have a nice concrete floor and tranny jack.

A few more questions:

So the transfer case. It can be done with it in place, or removed. What are the advantages/disadvantages to each? I'm the type of person who'd prefer to move the tranny JUST enough to do the swap. If I remove the transfer case, how much does it weigh? Is there a gasket between it and the tranny? Can I expect to get a face-full of fluid if I'm under there bench-pressing it? Is there a safer way to do it? I'd really rather NOT remove it.

How high do I need to get the truck? I was thinking of driving up four-ramps. Maybe I'll just put 6" blocks under the wheels. Either way, I hear it's easiest to get the truck level.

Should I expect the tranny cooler lines to leak the whole time I'm under there?

I've read the tricks to getting to the upper tranny bolts. I like the idea of dropping the tail down a bit and getting to them with a long extention. 3/8" drive OK? Will this method still work if I have the t-case installed?

FWIW, I managed to get 3 quarts of fluid into the converter using the dust cover as a plunger.