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My Hydroboost Swap - Details, Advice, Pictures, Part Numbers Inside

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Old May 1, 2017 | 06:42 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by black04
Unfortunately I don't have it to compare to. I noticed today that it is hard to turn only when the brakes are applied, so it's most noticeable trying to maneuver in tight parking lots. Is this normal for a hydroboost setup or does it sound like the pump is going out and not have enough power?
Not normal. Just think about the headache at the Cadillac dealership if every soccer mom came in saying that. Pump should be 100% silent like a new truck would be.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 06:48 PM
  #12  
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Alright ill try a new ACdelco pump. Thanks for the help!
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Old Jan 2, 2018 | 06:16 PM
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Part numbers:
AC Delco 36-353800 pump to hydroboost line
AC Delco 36-365463 hydroboost to steering gear line
AC Delco 88963604 2006 Escalade power steering pump
AC Delco 22872387 firewall seal for hydroboost
AC Delco 178-0685 2006 Escalade hydroboost assembly


Is this everthing I would need, except for a pedal?
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Old Nov 13, 2020 | 06:20 PM
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Did anyone want to update about this pump flow control valve. I found two different part numbers.
I think the one we DON'T want is 26095470. Which I'm finding is on 2002 escalade and NBS avalanche, and then finding conflicting info saying its on all NBS SUV.

I think the correct one is 26065843 ($15-$20, and can be found easy). It is listed for 97-NNBS - pickups 1500-3500 and SUVs.
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 09:32 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by adriver
Did anyone want to update about this pump flow control valve. I found two different part numbers.
I think the one we DON'T want is 26095470. Which I'm finding is on 2002 escalade and NBS avalanche, and then finding conflicting info saying its on all NBS SUV.

I think the correct one is 26065843 ($15-$20, and can be found easy). It is listed for 97-NNBS - pickups 1500-3500 and SUVs.

There is plenty of information out on the web about this... i wouldn’t just go and replace the valve with another one with a different part number, if your pressure isnt right. The difference between these valves is the shim stackup(for the most part). They used to stack anywhere from 1 to 4 copper shims under the bolt that has the screen on the end if the valve. Eventually they just began using no shims and lock tite to achieve the proper gap with feeler gauges. This can varry the pressure output anywhere from 850 to 1400psi. So its fairly crucial.

another thing to point out about the pressure, is if you are having issues even after changing the valve or shimming it, then you can easily have another underlying issue...
First make sure your return lines are routed correctly.
next thing you want to check is for leaks(obviously)
and when you have that valve out of the pump, you want to check a few things: the diameter of the flow orifice(like stated above). You can check this my inserting a drill bit.
and lastly, you want to check to see how much clearance there is for the valve inside the bore of the pump. Since its very high output pressure, Fluid can easily exhaust around the sides of a worn valve/bore. And Often overlooked(usually on Type 2 gm pumps) is the material of the pump body in comparison to the valve. Some are steel body pumps, while some aluminum. If you have an aluminum body pump, the valve needs to be aluminum. And same goes for a steel body pump needing a steel valve. Reason for this is heat expansion of the metals. So keep that in mind if you go out purchasing valves that didnt come with your pump.

hope this helps.
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