I don't know where people are talking about 6x9s but I don't think there is enough depth anywhere in the whole truck. I have had several systems, 99 Tahoe, 01 Tahoe, 97 Blazer, and this 04 Yukon and I have never done anything to the charging system other than swapped out the batteries for Optima batteries and in 1 vehicle had a better altenator because I smoked it. The stereos ranged anywhere from 1 D class to 3 D classes and 500 watts to about 3500 or so. I am not saying the info is wrong or not worth it but I am interested in trying it. I was mainly talking about the 6x9s, the suggestion to buy a cheap amp, and running 1 4 gauge. I usually run more power wire but I usually run an *** of power my wife's Yukon I think has a 1/0 and a distribution block. Cheap head unit, if you are going to spend money in 2 places get a nice head unit and good amp. Those 2 items if high quality will make chicken salad from chicken ****.....good clean power and lots of it usually doesn't kill speakers unless there is a loose nut behind the volume ****. The factory Bose systems have tweeters in the A pillars for a reason, the imaging there is awesome. A popular thing to do IF you can find a decent 3 way system is to mount 6 1/2 in the doors (mid bass covered) mount a 4" in the stock tweeter location on a non Bose truck (mid range covered) and the tweeter in the A pillar (highs covered) throw in some ok 6 1/2s in the back doors and run all that off a nice 300+rms amp. Then one sub in the stock location depending on how much bass you wanted. Bass blockers, if you get a nice enough head unit you have the ability to set the HPF and that will be much better than bass blockers, I have had bass blockers once before and they blew off an Eclipse head units power alone and that was a 4x6 in the dash of a Chevy S10. I hope I don't come across as a dick head or anything I am just listing my 1st hand experiences that over 10+ years of having big stereos I have encountered. http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...on%20pictures/ my wife's Yukon I will try and get some pictures of the finished sub but we completely removed everything in it to put down sound deadening and prep it for the stereo

 

that is the only pictures I have of all of my systems. That truck was 4 Treo SSX 12s, 2 MTX 81000Ds and their biggest 4 channel on Alpine type S with the best Alpine head unit they had at the time in an 8 cube box. I had less than 4k in that stereo and it would do 158db on the dash legal on a Audio Control meter....on a Term Lab I want to say it was low 150s high 140s that was in 04 when I built that. Then I wanted to start making them pretty and not loud that's is going to change very shortly though

 

trust me the charging system upgrade is worth it and one 4ga wire for a memphis big belle amplifier is plenty it only draws 100amps if i recall its a high effiency amp design
its not a cheap amp at all and i like it alot and its 1ohm stable

never seen the 6x9s either truthfully

as far as a headunit is concerned idk everyone i have ever owned falls apart

but i had this in my 85 surburban
2 15s ported box
1 18 jl audio sealed
4 4in speakers
2 6x9s
8 tweets
audiobahn amps for speakers----4ga
matts pro audio amps for subs---2/0ga
mtx crossover
2 yellow tops
isolator
2/0 gauge from front to rear
upgraded alternator cant recall amperage
new motor ground an chassis grounds

the only problems i ever had was
headunit falling apart
rear window busting
screw unscrewing thereself
the cheap crimp on lugs vibrating loose
rearview falling off
OH AND CHEST PAINS

shoulda seen when we put these subs in my friends accord wagon lets just say he needs a new roof now lol

thru studying i have learned this with wire since i wire vehicles for a living just not stereos but i make the whole body harness.
never can have to good a ground or to many from batterie
frames are a poor conductor
8ga=70-100 amps
4ga=100-150 amps
2ga=never use it in audio lol
0ga=more than a common man will ever need
2/0ga=cost enough to make a blind man see
always use oxygen free wire if u can get tinned wire something like directed sale i have had good results,,,the higher the strand count the better more surface area for the electricity to flow

 

skyhigh what class were u in when u did spl when u hit the 158
did they go by wattage or cone size?

 

That was cone size. I actually built the truck and never competed it. A good friend bought and he did right after he bought it. The class that truck was in was 25-48

 

well thats the street beats class and i think its stupid *** hell seriously wattage classes are the only ones i fool with
i have lots of 0-500 watt trophies MMATS all the way