Dual Battery Setup
Jan 26, 2007 | 01:01 PM
#3
Here ya go... and for anyone else that wants to know.
Yes i took time to draw a Schematic up in Paint (
)
AUX BATTERY tray mounted on the Passenger Fenderwell.
Red Wire (Hot) runs to the engine cover, Under it and comes out in this loom..
Then connects inside the lil red box.
I dont have a pic of where i mounted the Ground for the AUX Battery. But my Paint Schematic Special shows that.
I had enough Red wire left over i ran some from the ALT to the Red Box. Figured it wouldnt hurt to replace the stock 10ga stuff, Or was it 12ga? That stuff is small for sure.
Wire is 6ga Red and Black.
Total cost: ~$80
Battery tray
Battery
Battery connectors
Crimp on Stud connectors
Wire
Zip Ties
Yes i took time to draw a Schematic up in Paint (
)AUX BATTERY tray mounted on the Passenger Fenderwell.
Red Wire (Hot) runs to the engine cover, Under it and comes out in this loom..
Then connects inside the lil red box.
I dont have a pic of where i mounted the Ground for the AUX Battery. But my Paint Schematic Special shows that.
I had enough Red wire left over i ran some from the ALT to the Red Box. Figured it wouldnt hurt to replace the stock 10ga stuff, Or was it 12ga? That stuff is small for sure.
Wire is 6ga Red and Black.
Total cost: ~$80
Battery tray
Battery
Battery connectors
Crimp on Stud connectors
Wire
Zip Ties
Jan 28, 2007 | 10:10 PM
#6
Pailess Wiring also has a dual batt setup I used on my 92 and 99 silvy's, and worked flawlessly. Could charge one, both, and use one or both to start the truck. Basically allowed the use of two different batts ( i had one yellow top and one red top Optima).
This is the key thing....if you use the setup like Nonnie used, you need to used 2 of basically the same exact battery, in pretty much the same state of health. The weak one will kill the strong one in the long run much faster.
This is the key thing....if you use the setup like Nonnie used, you need to used 2 of basically the same exact battery, in pretty much the same state of health. The weak one will kill the strong one in the long run much faster.
Jan 28, 2007 | 10:20 PM
#7
I think using an isolator, which the painless system must come with should be a must. It's a good safety measure and if wired correctly you can run one battery down completely and still use the other battery to start the truck. Surly a stock setup comes with an isolator?
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Dec 14, 2012 | 10:29 PM
#9
Pailess Wiring also has a dual batt setup I used on my 92 and 99 silvy's, and worked flawlessly. Could charge one, both, and use one or both to start the truck. Basically allowed the use of two different batts ( i had one yellow top and one red top Optima).
This is the key thing....if you use the setup like Nonnie used, you need to used 2 of basically the same exact battery, in pretty much the same state of health. The weak one will kill the strong one in the long run much faster.
This is the key thing....if you use the setup like Nonnie used, you need to used 2 of basically the same exact battery, in pretty much the same state of health. The weak one will kill the strong one in the long run much faster.
is this the painless kit I need?
Painless Wiring Part 40120 - Digital Power Manager
Dec 15, 2012 | 12:35 AM
#10
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
sorry for bumping an old thread, but don't think it requires another new thread...
is this the painless kit I need?
Painless Wiring Part 40120 - Digital Power Manager
is this the painless kit I need?
Painless Wiring Part 40120 - Digital Power Manager
I think he was referring to this kit. Either way, what you're wanting to do can be accomplished for much less money by using something that doesn't say painless.
Painless Wiring Part 40102 - 250 AMP Dual Battery Control