any audio gurus out there
06-30-2017, 12:05 PM
#1
any audio gurus out there
I guess I should have asked before buying crap...impulse purchase!
I recently went from a Limited Avalon with a JBL upgraded audio system to my 2002 2500HD as they daily driver. the change in gas mileage sucks, but I really miss the JBL system the most! I drive roughly 2 hours daily for work and music passes the time. the car had something crazy like 17 speakers.
the truck has a pioneer deck, pioneer speakers in all doors but it's just so high and screechy if you crank it up. I like loud music and i like bass. I hope to fix it, but I'm not an audio guy by any means so i bought a "package" hoping someone else that knows what they are doing put the right parts together. now I'm having buyers remorse or anxiety that it wont be what i want LOL.
kicker comp 150rms 4 ohm 12" subs
the box fires up at the bottom of the back seat. .48 CU FT per sub
kickercx600.1 mono amp. 300W X 1 @ 4 ohm, 600Wx1@2ohm.
1) should this sound decent? I'm not looking for competition sound, just clean distortion free mids/bass with my screaming *** 2 way door speakers.
2) the speakers are 150 RMS. should i wire them at 4 ohm and get exactly 150rms from the amp, or wire them at 2 ohm and have more amp than necessary for the speaker. which should sound best?
I recently went from a Limited Avalon with a JBL upgraded audio system to my 2002 2500HD as they daily driver. the change in gas mileage sucks, but I really miss the JBL system the most! I drive roughly 2 hours daily for work and music passes the time. the car had something crazy like 17 speakers.
the truck has a pioneer deck, pioneer speakers in all doors but it's just so high and screechy if you crank it up. I like loud music and i like bass. I hope to fix it, but I'm not an audio guy by any means so i bought a "package" hoping someone else that knows what they are doing put the right parts together. now I'm having buyers remorse or anxiety that it wont be what i want LOL.
kicker comp 150rms 4 ohm 12" subs
the box fires up at the bottom of the back seat. .48 CU FT per sub
kickercx600.1 mono amp. 300W X 1 @ 4 ohm, 600Wx1@2ohm.
1) should this sound decent? I'm not looking for competition sound, just clean distortion free mids/bass with my screaming *** 2 way door speakers.
2) the speakers are 150 RMS. should i wire them at 4 ohm and get exactly 150rms from the amp, or wire them at 2 ohm and have more amp than necessary for the speaker. which should sound best?
06-30-2017, 12:54 PM
#2
A few questions first...
Is the sub enclosure ported or sealed? Are the two sub chambers separated or one big enclosure? This will have an effect on how the subs react to the power given and ultimately sound.
Are the current door speakers simply coax or single cone designs run off the head unit?
If you are looking for a good rich sound with pronounced bass and clean mids and highs, I feel you may be disappointed in what you have described above. IMO, a pair of 12's are overkill unless your emphasis is on bass. I have had several systems that had plenty of clean bass with a single 10. The key is in the midrange woofers. A good 6.5" or 6.75" amplified component set will provide majority of the sound with a small subwoofer filling in the extreme low end.
My suggestion:
Good quality head unit (the Pioneer you have may be ok)
Good quality components for the front doors (I like Infinity Reference)
Good quality coax for the rear doors (same brand/series as above for matched sound)
Good quality low/mid volume 10" sub in appropriate sealed enclosure
Good quality 6ch amplifier (around 75Wx4 + 300x1)
Sound deadener in the doors and floor under sub enclosure
I had pretty much that setup in my Tahoe and it sounded great.
Is the sub enclosure ported or sealed? Are the two sub chambers separated or one big enclosure? This will have an effect on how the subs react to the power given and ultimately sound.
Are the current door speakers simply coax or single cone designs run off the head unit?
If you are looking for a good rich sound with pronounced bass and clean mids and highs, I feel you may be disappointed in what you have described above. IMO, a pair of 12's are overkill unless your emphasis is on bass. I have had several systems that had plenty of clean bass with a single 10. The key is in the midrange woofers. A good 6.5" or 6.75" amplified component set will provide majority of the sound with a small subwoofer filling in the extreme low end.
My suggestion:
Good quality head unit (the Pioneer you have may be ok)
Good quality components for the front doors (I like Infinity Reference)
Good quality coax for the rear doors (same brand/series as above for matched sound)
Good quality low/mid volume 10" sub in appropriate sealed enclosure
Good quality 6ch amplifier (around 75Wx4 + 300x1)
Sound deadener in the doors and floor under sub enclosure
I had pretty much that setup in my Tahoe and it sounded great.
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wretched73 (06-30-2017)
06-30-2017, 02:46 PM
#3
I don't know on the box...it is sealed, but they may be split or may be open. the description didn't say.
the door speakers are 2 way pioneers wired to the head unit. would adding an amp to those make them sound better? I'd have to pull some door panels to figure out exactly what they are. they are old, i know that lol.
I figured the 12's were overkill from some of my old 10" subs in the past, but those 10" subs were much more expensive with huge amps pushing them. I can always turn it down. turning something up too far might cook something. the 12" speaker was the only size kit i found from this vender for my 2500HD crew.
i don't want to break the bank on a sound system for this old truck. the box, subs, amp and wiring was only $325 shipped.
the door speakers are 2 way pioneers wired to the head unit. would adding an amp to those make them sound better? I'd have to pull some door panels to figure out exactly what they are. they are old, i know that lol.
I figured the 12's were overkill from some of my old 10" subs in the past, but those 10" subs were much more expensive with huge amps pushing them. I can always turn it down. turning something up too far might cook something. the 12" speaker was the only size kit i found from this vender for my 2500HD crew.
i don't want to break the bank on a sound system for this old truck. the box, subs, amp and wiring was only $325 shipped.
06-30-2017, 08:53 PM
#4
Adding an amp will help, especially at higher volume levels, which you will need to keep up with the subs, if the speakers can handle it. A high pass filter will also help the door speakers utilize the power by not trying to reproduce low frequencies they physically cant. The problem with 12's are they can reproduce the mid bass your system is currently lacking (per the screechy description). Turning the dial up on the crossover to fill in the midbass is just going to make the subs muddy. This is where a smaller sub could prove beneficial.
Since the box is sealed, if you press in on one sub and the other pops out, it isn't separated. Separated is better for response and power handling.
Since the box is sealed, if you press in on one sub and the other pops out, it isn't separated. Separated is better for response and power handling.
06-30-2017, 09:56 PM
#5
at first I was thinking I didn't buy enough sub due to the low RMS rating, now I'm thinking I could have saved some money lol. I got in and dug deep on the settings and found that I can control the speakers and subwoofer settings separately through the head unit. the presets had the high frequency cranked up all the way, and the low filters were too low which caused distortion at higher volume. I was able to get more mid out of the door speakers and less treble. I can now crank it 100% with zero to minimal distortion and it isn't ear piercing screech anymore...still pitchy but nowhere near as bad as it was. I can probably tune some more of that down. it still sounds like **** without any bass. I'm going to wait until I get the subs in before buying anything else.
with an amp twice the size of my sub RMS rating, how will I know when to stop turning up the gain settings?
with an amp twice the size of my sub RMS rating, how will I know when to stop turning up the gain settings?
06-30-2017, 11:43 PM
#6
When they stop working.
You will hear the coils bottom out when gain is to high.
If you want to do it right, hit hometheater shack forum and dl REW software and get on parts express for a calibrated mic.
Not only can you ise REW to tune all of your audio systems, you can also use it to chase down noises in your house and vehicles, like vibrations, rattles, hums, etc. the spectrum analyzer works very good for finding noises.
You will hear the coils bottom out when gain is to high.
If you want to do it right, hit hometheater shack forum and dl REW software and get on parts express for a calibrated mic.
Not only can you ise REW to tune all of your audio systems, you can also use it to chase down noises in your house and vehicles, like vibrations, rattles, hums, etc. the spectrum analyzer works very good for finding noises.
Last edited by ezdaar; 07-01-2017 at 12:03 AM.
07-01-2017, 07:16 AM
#7
You will likely be limited on gain by sound balance with your mids/highs as they will have significantly less volume due to being powered by the head unit. I have always tuned my systems by ear. Perfect balance by a spectral analyzer my not be perfect to your ear as tonal balance is highly subjective to the listener.
Going back to a question in your op.... If you have a pair of 4 ohm subs with a single channel amp, you can only wire them one of two ways; in series for a 8 ohm load or parallel for a 2 ohm load. I suggest the latter if the amp is stable with a two ohm load.
Actually your subs and amp are paired pretty well. It is better to have more power. Low power and distortion is what usually kills speakers. As edzaar said, you will hear when when you overpower a speaker as it will reach its excursion limit and slap.
Going back to a question in your op.... If you have a pair of 4 ohm subs with a single channel amp, you can only wire them one of two ways; in series for a 8 ohm load or parallel for a 2 ohm load. I suggest the latter if the amp is stable with a two ohm load.
Actually your subs and amp are paired pretty well. It is better to have more power. Low power and distortion is what usually kills speakers. As edzaar said, you will hear when when you overpower a speaker as it will reach its excursion limit and slap.
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07-01-2017, 01:39 PM
#9
1. Use baffles for your door speakers. Keeps the moisture out and produces better sound.
I have a DVC, 8in, Infinity sub and it pumps out all the bass I can stand, in a sealed box. It doesn't overpower the door speakers either.
I think the 10in will be ok but if all you want is to complement your tunes, get an 8in and a small sealed box.
I have a DVC, 8in, Infinity sub and it pumps out all the bass I can stand, in a sealed box. It doesn't overpower the door speakers either.
I think the 10in will be ok but if all you want is to complement your tunes, get an 8in and a small sealed box.
07-01-2017, 01:48 PM
#10
I accidentally sold it about 2 mo ago. Someone said to put a price on it, I did and they sent me walking. I came out good on the deal, but Im kicking myself for letting it go. Another deal will roll across eventually. Until then im cruising the truck daily. I would really like a clean stock 6 speed ws6 but they are hard to find without an insane asking price.