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Back in my days of playing with turbos we skipped the manifold and turbo flange gaskets, had less issues with bolts backing out that way. There's a lot of expansion and contraction going on there and the gasket adds to things that expand and contract. If you get to where you can't hold a gasket in try running it without one. If everything is flat it will seal great.
If you can run those studs you originally had in it but shorten them to work I would do that, that way you grab as many threads as possible and help hold the heavy manifold and turbo in place and may help with maintaining the sealing of the flange.
Also if you haven't done this yet.. it's a pain holding the manifold, gasket, and then trying to thread bolts. I took two bolts and cut the heads off of them and slotted the ends so they can be unscrewed with a flat head, I then put those in each end of the head and slide the gasket on then the manifold and start threading bolts. Then remove the two studs with a flat head and put your last two bolts in.
Back in my days of playing with turbos we skipped the manifold and turbo flange gaskets, had less issues with bolts backing out that way. There's a lot of expansion and contraction going on there and the gasket adds to things that expand and contract. If you get to where you can't hold a gasket in try running it without one. If everything is flat it will seal great.
If you can run those studs you originally had in it but shorten them to work I would do that, that way you grab as many threads as possible and help hold the heavy manifold and turbo in place and may help with maintaining the sealing of the flange.
Also if you haven't done this yet.. it's a pain holding the manifold, gasket, and then trying to thread bolts. I took two bolts and cut the heads off of them and slotted the ends so they can be unscrewed with a flat head, I then put those in each end of the head and slide the gasket on then the manifold and start threading bolts. Then remove the two studs with a flat head and put your last two bolts in.
Killer thread man, thanks for all the info
I actually left the back stud in for this reason; it's the one that never pulled out. The manifold is tight though and I am fairly interested in trying these locking bolts. I may do inserts on all the holes and then go back with a stud in the front and rear and bolt the middle holes which is where my problem has always been.
I'd never thought of running no gasket at all; I suppose if the surfaces are true then it should basically work. I worry about the varying expansion rate between the aluminum head and the stainless manifold but that exists with or without gasket, and factory it's cast iron vs. aluminum. If this round doesn't fix it, I will strongly consider it. I am 99% sire previous owner blessed me with this issue out of the gate by leaving rather short aftermarket bolts in there...presumably from a previously installed set of headers. I didn't realize it until it was too late as I was initially assuming the truck was and always was stock. Obviously not so.
That was actually.one of the first tricks I learned from my dad when I was about 6-7 and we were putting headers on my older brother's 65 Mustang. We also had a 7/16" Craftsman open end that we cut in half with a torch to fit the tight spaces. Good stuff.
Back from vacation and got some new toys ready to finish this off.
I picked up this blasting cabinet via online auction(of a local Fab shop). It's gigantic. 6' tall. Pretty sure I could fit an entire V8 in there. Key for me is that it has a 2HP dust collector integrated that seems to work great so pretty stoked about that. Came with a giant filter bag and I'll probably just extend that outside of the shop for times when I am blasting. Also got a free replacement glass lens with it.
My current compressor is a run-of-the-mill 60gal from a big box store and probably puts out 11cfm@90 on it's best day so no hope of running the giant internals on this thing. I picked up a "Texas Blaster" pressure pot blaster with their smallest nozzle for now--3/32. Planning to just run the blast hose into the cabinet and go from there.
I have been considering upgrading to a "rest of my life" air compressor and being done with it. Home Depot is offering a seemingly very good deal on the following eMax compressor. What interests me is 10HP, half the RPM, more than 3x the air, and supposedly incredibly quiet. Also 5 year warranty. Anyone have experience with this brand or line of products? "Special buy" at $2399
I actually left the back stud in for this reason; it's the one that never pulled out. The manifold is tight though and I am fairly interested in trying these locking bolts. I may do inserts on all the holes and then go back with a stud in the front and rear and bolt the middle holes which is where my problem has always been.
I'd never thought of running no gasket at all; I suppose if the surfaces are true then it should basically work. I worry about the varying expansion rate between the aluminum head and the stainless manifold but that exists with or without gasket, and factory it's cast iron vs. aluminum. If this round doesn't fix it, I will strongly consider it. I am 99% sire previous owner blessed me with this issue out of the gate by leaving rather short aftermarket bolts in there...presumably from a previously installed set of headers. I didn't realize it until it was too late as I was initially assuming the truck was and always was stock. Obviously not so.
That was actually.one of the first tricks I learned from my dad when I was about 6-7 and we were putting headers on my older brother's 65 Mustang. We also had a 7/16" Craftsman open end that we cut in half with a torch to fit the tight spaces. Good stuff.
Thanks for the help.
I was really hesitant to not run gaskets but my buddies were telling me not to that were turbo and I talked to a builder that was building some of the fastest turbo cars out there at the time and he said he didn't run them, so I didn't, and I never once had an issue either. It feels wrong to not run a gasket and I would still feel weird about not running one, but it did work. However every setup is different so I'm with ya on seeing how it goes, that's really the only way you'll know.
And either the previous owner fubard you or your turbo manifold is thicker and you needed longer bolts.. Who knows, glad you're getting it sorted though.
Went looking for a $100 oven to use for coating(Turbo X can be initial cured to 500 degrees and then installed and exhaust temp cures it the rest of the way) and found something even better for $75: a stand-up freezer that someone had already converted with the guts of an oven. It's ugly, dirty, needs new wheels, high-temp door gasket, and a couple of new wires, but it will save me a lot of time and gives me a much bigger oven than I was going to end up with. The guy threw in an old, beat-up pressure pot(which I won't use), an Eastwood beginners' powder coating gun setup, and 20' of blasting hose as well.
Once I pick up a couple of detail guns, we'll be coating some stuff.
Also bought a fancy graphite gasket though that wasn't leaking at all.
I have the same kit as you with the 78/75 turbo. Haven't installed it yet, it was my divorce present to myself. 10 months later I'm digging back into my build. But anyway... I actually picked up my kit from On3. When I was there talking to the guys. They recommend not using gaskets on anything and instead using copper RTV. It says in their assembly instructions to use a gasket but they have since removed all gaskets from their kits.
I have the same kit as you with the 78/75 turbo. Haven't installed it yet, it was my divorce present to myself. 10 months later I'm digging back into my build. But anyway... I actually picked up my kit from On3. When I was there talking to the guys. They recommend not using gaskets on anything and instead using copper RTV. It says in their assembly instructions to use a gasket but they have since removed all gaskets from their kits.
That's interesting to hear. I HATE the idea on paper but will probably call On3, discuss, and consider again.
I wonder if that is the true consensus over there? I didn't buy this kit *that* long ago and they've been doing this a pretty long time now.
Do you mean to say they use RTV even between the manifold and head?
That's interesting to hear. I HATE the idea on paper but will probably call On3, discuss, and consider again.
I wonder if that is the true consensus over there? I didn't buy this kit *that* long ago and they've been doing this a pretty long time now.
Do you mean to say they use RTV even between the manifold and head?
What year truck/engine/etc?
Thanks.
I bought my kit sometime at the beginning of the year. Would have been after your first post. 7 months or so ago. Spoke and meet with Greg L.
I was told to copper RTV everything including the manifold to the head. That’s how their shop truck was done also. I was even told it wouldn’t hurt to put some RTV in the Vbands for extra insurance. He said they had multiple customers blowing out metal gaskets so the new standard was RTV(my words not his). I know my manifold is perfectly flat but not machines smooth. I would think you would need a thicker gasket to fill in the imperfections. That’s why RTV makes since to me.
14 Silverado 1500, 5.3
Have lt1 injectors also. Trying to decide to add meth or go all out and buy lt4 injectors and Pump. Will be tuned at weaponX in Cincinnati. My goal is 6xxwhp
07-01-2018, 04:03 PM
