When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Gauge is working now. It's hitting 8.x PSI and the wastegate seems to be working as intended.
I have slight coolant(around the metal pipe section replaced earlier) and oil(around the sandwich adapter) leaks I need to address and going to mess with that tomorrow.
It's a little annoying that the replacement metal tube didn't have rolled ends to prevent leaks BUT I looked back in my leftover parts and they did send some better hose clamps that seem to have fixed the coolant leak. Flushed and refilled with about 25% Dexcool and a bottle of Water Wetter.
Drained the oil and pulled the sandwich adapter. Took out the two plugs in the side of it and one had some oil on the threads. Also the adapter itself wasn't terribly tight. I cleaned it up, really went at it with the thread sealer on the plugs, got those very tight, and tightened the sandwich adapter much more this time.
The drain contraption was fantastic. Also glad to see after several heat cycles and about 100 miles the oil still looked good and clean/clear.
Hopefully tomorrow the new WG spring will be in then dyno Tuesday.
444/440 @ 8PSI. Not bad for a first, quick try, I think.
Originally Posted by Choda
get some videos of it driving around and making turbo noises lol
That was certainly planned but looks like we are headed for more snow in LOUISIANA.
Got it on the dyno and did a few pulls. We were having trouble getting it to lock in 4th gear and it was still trying to shift. We'll get it next week but the bad weather was upon us and I had to roll out early. We are going to get together next week and try a bit more spring in the wastegate and a few other things and do some drivability tuning.
Probably try around 10PSI next week and leave it there if there is a decent gain. Overall I am happy with it considering that is through a transfer case and 305/50/20 (32" and on the heavier side of things)all-terrain tires. 3.42 gears.
Sorry for the low-quality pics. Dirty CRT monitor. I've promised Geoff a new(er) PC for the dyno but we just haven't gotten together on it yet.
Length doesn't really matter, it's the material and design of the part that are the issue.
No GM truck driveshaft is rated above the factory speed limiter, it's kind of why they limit these trucks to 100mph. Even though you have the shortest driveshaft available it's still made of either thin walled steel or thin walled aluminum. Often times from all the pictures and stories you see/hear they may not even vibrate that bad but once it hits it's critical speed it will just explode.
Length doesn't really matter, it's the material and design of the part that are the issue.
No GM truck driveshaft is rated above the factory speed limiter, it's kind of why they limit these trucks to 100mph. Even though you have the shortest driveshaft available it's still made of either thin walled steel or thin walled aluminum. Often times from all the pictures and stories you see/hear they may not even vibrate that bad but once it hits it's critical speed it will just explode.
Ok; guidance please on replacement? And should I be any less/more worried about the front shaft?
Edit: are you sure a shorter shaft doesn't help the situation at least some? AFAIK, the formula for critical speed of a shaft involved length as one of the primary inputs.
01-13-2018, 04:26 PM
