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Titan rear window on Silverado

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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 07:17 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by SLW6OH
https://www.amazon.com/GAMA-Electron.../dp/B001PNIJM2

Ive used this switch on 2 installs works like a charm 4 wire hook up
Any chance you could show how you wired it?

I was thinking id need a 6 pin switch for forward and reverse, but if you could show how you used yours, then ill go that route.
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 10:08 AM
  #62  
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From: CHANDLER
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I ran a 12v key hot and a ground up to the switch, then used the 2 larger gauge wires from the window regulator and ran them up to the switch.
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Old Jul 23, 2018 | 11:49 AM
  #63  
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Excuse my ignorance boss, could you elaborate a little more, im not to savy on wiring but ive been trying to learn.

I have 4 wires on my motor, and i know 1 is positive 2 is ground, 3 is forward, and 4th would be reverse.
I did some research on DPDT switches but i couldnt find any locally, and the 6 pin layout made sense.

With your 4 pin switch, which wire would go where? Also whats a key hot?
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Old Jul 24, 2018 | 03:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by kaze_v8
Ill be honest with you, i was gonna buy that molding they had on here, but it just seemed to bulky for my liking.

Luckily when i went to get my glass installed the guy pulled out a huge roll of some generic gasket the auto glass shops use and it fit like a glove. Only part that looked different was at the rounded corners , but thats a given. Ill post pics later.
I’m an autoglass tech. They are using universal moldings. Most shops use Marcy’s moldings,Flextrim or the equivalent brands.

From these pics, it looks as if they are using the 16mm or 19mm, some brands call it t107 or t108.
Here are the part numbers where you can search online and buy a roll of it.

Also, for anybody wondering, this glass is $600-my cost thru pgw or myg. Better find it used locally and get someone who does glass to remove it for you.
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 06:03 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by retrainh


I’m an autoglass tech. They are using universal moldings. Most shops use Marcy’s moldings,Flextrim or the equivalent brands.

From these pics, it looks as if they are using the 16mm or 19mm, some brands call it t107 or t108.
Here are the part numbers where you can search online and buy a roll of it.

Also, for anybody wondering, this glass is $600-my cost thru pgw or myg. Better find it used locally and get someone who does glass to remove it for you.

NOW ^THAT'S^ what I'm talking about. Exactly what I needed since I plan on doing this myself soon as I come across a Titan Glass locally. THANK YOU!
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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:36 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by prican_2000
NOW ^THAT'S^ what I'm talking about. Exactly what I needed since I plan on doing this myself soon as I come across a Titan Glass locally. THANK YOU!
If you want, I can send you an install kit that includes the molding, primer, urethane, and cleaner required to install the window. I use all DOW Betaseal products.
I can include
2 tubes of u-428 urethane with Precut V-notch tips
1 can of 5504g Primer
1 can of GC800 Glass Cleaner
2x Primer Applicators
4x Single-sided Razorblades
15 ft of the t108 molding (should be 2.5x what you need)
Instructions and tips on how to properly replace the glass (not the inner regulator portion but the actual bond to the vehicle and prep work.)

only thing you’ll need is a good ratio caulking gun, not a cheap one because you’ll never push this urethane by hand with a low ratio geared gun, I use electric guns for work.

Can send it anywhere in the US. $30 plus shipping usps priority flat rate.

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Old Jul 25, 2018 | 08:15 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by kaze_v8



Excuse my ignorance boss, could you elaborate a little more, im not to savy on wiring but ive been trying to learn.

I have 4 wires on my motor, and i know 1 is positive 2 is ground, 3 is forward, and 4th would be reverse.
I did some research on DPDT switches but i couldnt find any locally, and the 6 pin layout made sense.

With your 4 pin switch, which wire would go where? Also whats a key hot?
Black w/red and blue w/ yellow wires are ran all the way up to my switch and are on the tabs labeled motor(from amazon photo). Key hot is a 12v power source that is only on when your key is turned on. So you can jump off a key hot fuse to use the power then another wire to ground out the switch and thats the 4 wire hook up. Make sure to use an inline fuse on your key hot 12v power wire.
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 06:44 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by retrainh

If you want, I can send you an install kit that includes the molding, primer, urethane, and cleaner required to install the window. I use all DOW Betaseal products.
I can include
2 tubes of u-428 urethane with Precut V-notch tips
1 can of 5504g Primer
1 can of GC800 Glass Cleaner
2x Primer Applicators
4x Single-sided Razorblades
15 ft of the t108 molding (should be 2.5x what you need)
Instructions and tips on how to properly replace the glass (not the inner regulator portion but the actual bond to the vehicle and prep work.)

only thing you’ll need is a good ratio caulking gun, not a cheap one because you’ll never push this urethane by hand with a low ratio geared gun, I use electric guns for work.

Can send it anywhere in the US. $30 plus shipping usps priority flat rate.

I'll take you up on that offer - PM coming your way brother!

Thanks
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 11:54 AM
  #69  
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From: Spring, Tx.
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Originally Posted by SLW6OH
Black w/red and blue w/ yellow wires are ran all the way up to my switch and are on the tabs labeled motor(from amazon photo). Key hot is a 12v power source that is only on when your key is turned on. So you can jump off a key hot fuse to use the power then another wire to ground out the switch and thats the 4 wire hook up. Make sure to use an inline fuse on your key hot 12v power wire.
okay im understanding it a little better now.
So what do i do with the other two wires on the actual window motor?
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Old Jul 26, 2018 | 11:57 AM
  #70  
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I didn't do anything with them just kept them there and covered all the wires with loom
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