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I am using a fuse tap and for some reason i keep blowing fuses.
The first try i put the fuse tap in the #14 PWR WINDOW slot (2A) and i used a (7.5A) fuse in the second slot on the actual fuse tap.
I got the window to come up and down, but shortly afterwards it blew the fuse.
Second, i tried a different slot, the #1 REAR SEAT slot (20A) and for the second fuse i used a (10A) and i got the window to go up and down a couple of times and it burned out again.
Now im not to sure what im doing wrong, maybe someone with experience with fuse taps can tell me which fuse would be best to tap into and what size fuse i need to use going to the window.
Maybe someone who knows how many Amps need to run to the actual window motor because i cant seem to find anything on it.
Heres a diagram of my inside fuse panel for reference.
Some of the pictures floating around are from my truck. The molding is a universal window molding. I believe the size is 1-3/4”. Any automotive glass shop will have rolls of that molding in stock as it’s a common need. As for the wiring, you only need the green and blue wires coming off the harness. None of the others are used. I will comment more if anyone has other questions
I wired my truck up, unless anyone needs pictures and details, i just bought that forward and reverse switch that was posted, then i ran the wires from the window all the way to my switch location. I used the 2 thicker wires on the window motor, the black and blue.
From the switch i used a fuse tap and tapped into the "rear windshield wiper" motor, i think it was a 30A fuse, and then i used a 25A fuse for my window motor.
Initially that fuse is not used because only the suburbans have a rear windshield wiper. The fuse tap you can get online or at the auto parts, NNBS trucks use the standard mini size fuse, and i just grounded the switch right by the crash bar under the dash. Window has not skipped a beat sense.
Im having an issue figuring out how to keep the water out, im thinking of buying two window seals and running them from edge to edge to see if it helps.
I wired my truck up, unless anyone needs pictures and details, i just bought that forward and reverse switch that was posted, then i ran the wires from the window all the way to my switch location. I used the 2 thicker wires on the window motor, the black and blue.
From the switch i used a fuse tap and tapped into the "rear windshield wiper" motor, i think it was a 30A fuse, and then i used a 25A fuse for my window motor.
Initially that fuse is not used because only the suburbans have a rear windshield wiper. The fuse tap you can get online or at the auto parts, NNBS trucks use the standard mini size fuse, and i just grounded the switch right by the crash bar under the dash. Window has not skipped a beat sense.
Im having an issue figuring out how to keep the water out, im thinking of buying two window seals and running them from edge to edge to see if it helps.
@kaze it will not help. I tried two seals and it still leaks. im going to be working on making a drain pan for mine within the next few days. I plan on building a speaker box around it and i need t be absolutely certain no moisture is getting back there
@kaze it will not help. I tried two seals and it still leaks. im going to be working on making a drain pan for mine within the next few days. I plan on building a speaker box around it and i need t be absolutely certain no moisture is getting back there
Damn that sucks, i still plan on replacing mine simply because it needs it, with this heat down here it cracked it already, water seeps in all through the window not just the corners.
If you do design some kind of drain please share, i hate the smell of wet carpet and its happened to me once already.
I talked to some guys locally and say their windows dont leak, but i havent seen how it was installed.
Damn that sucks, i still plan on replacing mine simply because it needs it, with this heat down here it cracked it already, water seeps in all through the window not just the corners.
If you do design some kind of drain please share, i hate the smell of wet carpet and its happened to me once already.
I talked to some guys locally and say their windows dont leak, but i havent seen how it was installed.
I plan on making a small pan with some angle iron, and drill a hole for it to drain under the truck. I dont see how anyone's window doesnt leak. Theres cleary a sizeable gap on each side for daylight to come through. even with using two seals tt's not as bad but it definitely leaks. I just keep a couple towels back there to catch the water for now, but I don't drive the truck daily and its parked indoors for the most part
I plan on making a small pan with some angle iron, and drill a hole for it to drain under the truck. I dont see how anyone's window doesnt leak. Theres cleary a sizeable gap on each side for daylight to come through. even with using two seals tt's not as bad but it definitely leaks. I just keep a couple towels back there to catch the water for now, but I don't drive the truck daily and its parked indoors for the most part
Im gonna try to send some pics of a video some guy sent me on IG, it lookws like a pan, but it runs all the way down from the window to the floor, kind of like a shield
That black nbs is my buddy Bruce's truck. He got it installed by my buddy Weston at a glass shop in Baton Rouge. Came out really nice. I think its pretty much a direct fit on nbs.
do you know where in baton rouge he got it installed. Like the name of the place. And how much?
08-09-2018, 07:08 AM
