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So I got a wild hair up my *** and decided to install a line lock on my truck, and boy what a difference it made, before I couldn't break the rear tires loose AT ALL, now it'll start smoking em before half throttle. I decided to install mine directly after the master cylinder, blocking psi to the rear. The lines are 1/4" and the fitting in the master cylinder is a 1/2"-20. Napa sells nifty little 1/4" break tube adapters, which made going from 1/2-20 to the 1/8 pipe thread on the solenoid a breeze. Took her out for a test run and it works great, no ABS light. And just a tip if you do this, instead of trying to bleed the air all the way out from the master cylinder to the rear brakes get yourself a bottle pump, like one for filling the lower unit on an outboard. Hook all you lines up and pump oil in from the bleeder on the caliper, just pump until you see the level rise on your fluid reservoir. Just have to be careful to have the pump line full of oil so you don't shove a bunch of air in.
I know this is over a year old but I just got my truck to do proper burnouts without this. There is some magic going on with the stock computer that does not allow burn outs. This bypasses it, as well as changing some of the TM, and shift parameters to a stock CTSV.
I know this is over a year old but I just got my truck to do proper burnouts without this. There is some magic going on with the stock computer that does not allow burn outs. This bypasses it, as well as changing some of the TM, and shift parameters to a stock CTSV.
2009 GMC 2500HD 4x4
lol well even with custom tuning/bolt ons mine still wouldn't (not that burning out was a goal it was just iritating it wouldnt) plus this way puts a whole lot less strain on your driveline/brakes etc. But i gurantee you could do this to a bone stock truck and burn the tires off if you were so inclined.