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Rich I've seen that vid and it is truly impessive. Yes that's exactly what it felt like, just not quite as wild... I mean you have 1000hp lol. Next time I go back and lower tire pressures to 20psi and crank more preload into the rear bars. I'm gonna wait until this winter to see if I can get some negative DA.
So the interesting thing is, I didn't blow up the BAP or the fuel pump. The auxiliary studs on the fuse box no longer have 12V? Just about every vehicle on earth that I've seen has a 150-200amp fuse inline between the battery and the fuse box, so I'm thinking somehow I blew that fuse, which is concealed underneath the fuse box case? I spent the last 2 nights doing the dual pump install, I go to turn the key and prime the pump today and I get nothing. I'm like, wtf? So I bypass the hotwire kit and boom! wheeeeeeeeeen. Then I put the 12V hot for the hotwire directly to the battery and plug it back in at the pump and it wheens again. I bench tested my F90000274 and it sounds completely fine. So now, I've got an extra pump for when I do my triple pump setup.
Anyone know what these 2 red wires are for? On a side note, the motor sounds healthy and runs normal. SBE LSX
Cammed you've brought a really old thread back from the dead lol. When I went 1.91 60ft during the pass described in the first post of this thread, it felt like I had to countersteer during the entire 60ft, then all of a sudden grabs and goes. A pretty cool feeling in 4wd! I had 2 entire cranks of preload for that run. Several months later when I had time to go back to the track, I removed all preload and backed out the bars an additional 2 full turns, the truck has gone 1.6x every time without a 2 step. I've also done the shock relocation since as well, which I think was absolutely crucial to getting it to hook. Now, even on the street in 2WD, it hooks real real well, far better than it did before the shock relocation.