I just wanted to share the build of my traction bars and see if anyone has went this route and how they liked/disliked it and why. I used pretty simple stuff such as tractor top links, 3/4'' tubing, and 3/16'' steel.

First I cut the top links and made rod ends out of them.



I then built some brackets to move the front mount point 3'' off of the frame.


This is the front mount tacked in place so I can get measurements to build the back brackets.


I will put more up once I get the back one built!

 

Saw somewhere a guy had done that damn near sane thing cuz he refused to spend the money for a brand name set.... Cant remember if it was on here or another forum when i was building my engine i was all over the place trying to find stuff!!!!

 

Yeah if we are thinking of the same one I believe it was an s10 and he said they worked really good. I figured I'd give building a set a try and worst case just get caltracs if they don't work

 

If i had a decent welder i would build a set myself...

 

Very cool.

I've had this saved in my computer for years. If I had leaf spring suspension, this is the route I'd go. Traction

 

Ok so if according to tigs how to the bar only need to attach to the front eye boltnof the soring to orevent wrap, what is with the lift company ladder bars attaching to the frame well ahead of the fron spring eyelet??? On i do believe a 54" spring ut would essentially make the bar 27-28" long, most of the lift company ladder/traction bars are between 45 and 60some inches?!

 

There is a lot of geometry and science that goes into it that is well beyond me and I'll admit it! I have drop hangers so caltracs won't bolt right in is why I opted to go to the frame as opposed to the front eyelet. And I have that bookmarked as well Tig

 

Now that i think about it i think i have answered my own question, adding a 4" or taller block or even longer leafs to accomplish 6" of lift, would change the angle and going straight to the leaf spring eyelet would limit travel as well as put the traction bars at such a severe angle they woukd either break or cause something else to....

 

If you have alot of suspension travel or angle your should have some sort of pivot like a shackle or a slip fit style traction bar to prevent bind. But these would work just fine I'm sure on a street ony lowered truck. They look very stout nice job!

 

Even a set of procomp or fabtech bars only have pivots at both ends, the fabtechs look like a triangle with a set of heim joints or whatever you want to call them.... Look like the end of a set of tractor links... And the procomp and i wanna say tuff country bars are pretty well solidly mounted with bushings at each end....