This thread is a write up of how to install 6in travel 2.0 FOA coilovers with 2.5 reservoirs and 14in 600lbs eibach springs. Using Atomics lifted style upper and lower brackets. If you do this and mess up its not my fault as this is just a basic guide. Please be safe in any work you do and take your time to do it write dont pull an allnighter after a long day at work.

I'm going to leave the "how to pick your coilovers" and "what all do I need to buy?" out of this because member Atomic does an excellent job explaining all this in his thread.

Ordering from FOA was easy and straight forward I had a few questions along the way and called during bussiness hours. They quickly answered my questions and got me back to work. Took about 3 weeks from time of order to recieve my coilovers but there is a disclaimer when ordering that warns you of this.
Here is everything I got from FOA


The coilovers come assembled but require you to get them charged with nitrogen. I found a machine shop down the road that filled mine to 150PSI and didnt charge me a penny but a few other places I called wanted up to $65 per shock.

Once you are ready lift the truck off the ground with the suspension fully drooped and secure it with jack stands.

I started by removing all the torsion bar stuff from both sides and ended up having to use a sawzaw to remove the torsion bar cross member because it was so rusty and corroded. Also remove the front shocks because if you didnt already know thats where you will be mounting the coilovers.

First thing you need to do is cut the driver side upper bracket so it doesnt hit the shock body when installed. Here you can see where it needs to be cut removing the lower bolt hole but making room for the shock body.


When you go to install the modified upper drive side bracket you will think its impossible to get the lower bolt on the nut because of how little room there is on the back side of the frame. I had to use needle nose vice grips to hold the nut and position it on the back side of the frame and then slide the bolt to it and beging screwing it in. (Took me atleast 15-20min to install just this bolt)





You also need to trim a little bit of the side of the top of the shock mount to make room to slide the bolt in and cut and pull the opposite side so that the nut fits.





Here is what I should look like when done. (do not drill the extra hole like I did)

Front side the needed just a little more clearance for the nut





Trimmed rear side so bolt slides in.





Make sure to put one washer bettwen the coilover mount so theres no side way slop.




Now begin with the bottom mount only modification needed for this is to grind a little bit of material away so that the eye of the shock doesnt rub and the bolt lines up easier.





Doesnt take alot I used a dremel








After this you are ready to install your coilover to see how much bumpstop or what else needs trimming. I started with the top mount and then did the bottom.

I did this solo and needed a way to force the suspension down so the bottom could slide into the mount and this is what I used. Its not very safe and slipped several times.



Heres how much trimming I did but depending on the lift Im sure it will be different.






Finished product on driver side




Passenger side is much easier and doesnt require any cutting of the upper bracket. Instead of cutting you only use 2 bolts The top and the back bolt. If you install the front bolt it will hit the body of the shock and make it unable to push the bottom into the mount.

You will still have to trim the factory shock hoop a little to make room for the bolt but only on the back side.







After that is trimmed and installed Mount the lower bracket that should be grinded down to match the driver side. Once both brackets are installed Mount the top of the coilover just like you did before. Ensure you put a washer to take up slack bettween the mount like you did on the driver side.

Now that both brackets and the top is mounted you should be able to see what needs trimming and do that according but watch brake lines and ABS sensor wires dont want to cut anything on accident. Do the same trick to push the suspension down that you did on the driver side and install the bottom of the coilover.

Bam your done!! Double check all your work make sure everything is tight and that you didnt lose a socket somewhere. Then install both tires and lower the vehicle.

You may notice the truck is sitting very low or lopsided don't worry thats the last step. To adjust hieght you must adjust the preload on the spring tightening the spring adjustment nut will raise the vehical and lossening it will lower it. Make sure when you do this that you spray some lube on the threads of the shock to make it easier and that you lift the weight off the suspension. Take your time and keep adjusting till you think you have it just right then go for a drive! Take it easy at first listen for weird noises go do some full and complete turns to make sure nothing is rubbing and then go back home and remeasure both sides. The springs will probably have settled a little and may need adjustment.

I put over 400 miles on my swap in less then a week with no problems! And it will continue to go up daily. I have already hit some local 4x4 trails and blasted through some whoops nearly getting the front end off the ground. I can't Imagine having torsion bars again and recommend everyone does the swap! I will be painting the areas or bare metal somtime soon to prevent rust and since the shocks are bare aluminium I oil them after every car wash.

Big thanks to Atomic for answering my many stupid questions along the way and providing a great product!

Any questions please feel free to contact me via private message or in the thread I will try to help the best I can.

 

I say leave the tie wraps and add duct tape!!
Did you measure your shocks before u had the brackets? if so how? I have been looking at getting some brackets myself

 

"To find out what shocks and springs you need you will need to measure the “ride height” of the shock. In terms of the shock, this is the distance from the lower mount to the upper mount. This is the most important measurement of this swap. The easiest way to measure this is with the factory shock removed and a floor jack handy. You need to measure from the lower shock bolt on the LCA to the top of the shock hoop in a straight line. If you want to gain lift from this swap, use the jack to raise the front end to the height you want then measure between the same points."

This is straight from Atomics coilover discussion thread https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ersion-518118/

He has aslo been extremely helpful throughout the entire process. If your thinking about it do it! Totally worth it

 

Glad to see you like the swap! With a couple tweaks I think those FOA shocks will turn out just fine.

Anyone thinking about doing this swap feel free to message me or see the links in my sig.

 

Good stuff!

I have always had my eye on it and im sure its only a matter of time before I pull the trigger. In the mean time its money I dont really want to spend though.

 

New 600lbs springs should be here tomorrow so Maybe somtimes this week if it stops snowing I will go take everything apart and takes lots and lots of pics I tthink I may need to do a few more minor modifications. But like I said before it has nothing to do with the brackets they are top notch quality and worth every penny! I just had to be difficult and try somthing new.

 

Looks really tempting.............

 

Its more then tempting its a necessity! These trucks should have come with coilovers.

 

I have plenty ready to ship!

 

Finished the write up please PM me any spelling errors, questions you may have or requests for more pics.