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Old May 9, 2007 | 10:57 AM
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virgils4.85spd's Avatar
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Default Paint reviving

How much am i looking at for rock peck and water spot removal. Spots are permanent! Will not come off. It just needs a GOOD polishing and maybe another coat of clear.
Derek
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Old May 9, 2007 | 07:19 PM
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I just went to a place over the weekend looking for the same thing they wanted 150 for a full detail and 50 more because i have a dark colored truck and they charge more to get out the swirl marks...


soo $200 +tax but im in cen-cal might be cheaper whereever your from
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Old May 9, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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do a search on a "clay bar", i think if used properly it will give you the results your looking for!
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Old May 10, 2007 | 06:57 AM
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Default I have tried the clay bar...

i spent an hour on half of my hood and the spots were still there so i gave up.
Derek
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Old May 10, 2007 | 08:06 AM
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The water spots are probably etched into your paint if a clay bard doesn't work. Usually a little polishing will take care of them. If you are working by hand Meguiars ScratchX on a foam applicator pad will usually do the trick. Your arm will hurt for a few years but it will work.

If you have a little more money to invest buy a Porter Cable 7424, a flexible backing plate, a couple of Lake Country 6" pads and some Mothers Power Polish and do it much faster. While you are at it polish the whole truck, you will be amazed at the difference.

As far as rock chips you can touch those up yourself with a little patience. The cheapest route would be to buy some touch up paint and plastic toothpicks. Dip the end of the toothpick in the touch up paint then touch it to the chip. The paint will be drawn into the chip when you do this. Use very little paint so you dont overfill the chip. This way you can do it a couple of times to fill the chip say 80% so it will barely be noticable. If you want to get fancy you can fill the chip all the way up then wetsand it smoot using 2000 unigrit sandpaper wrapped around the end of a pencil, then buff the area smooth using your new Porter Cable.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Frito Bandito
The water spots are probably etched into your paint if a clay bard doesn't work. Usually a little polishing will take care of them. If you are working by hand Meguiars ScratchX on a foam applicator pad will usually do the trick. Your arm will hurt for a few years but it will work.

If you have a little more money to invest buy a Porter Cable 7424, a flexible backing plate, a couple of Lake Country 6" pads and some Mothers Power Polish and do it much faster. While you are at it polish the whole truck, you will be amazed at the difference.

As far as rock chips you can touch those up yourself with a little patience. The cheapest route would be to buy some touch up paint and plastic toothpicks. Dip the end of the toothpick in the touch up paint then touch it to the chip. The paint will be drawn into the chip when you do this. Use very little paint so you dont overfill the chip. This way you can do it a couple of times to fill the chip say 80% so it will barely be noticable. If you want to get fancy you can fill the chip all the way up then wetsand it smoot using 2000 unigrit sandpaper wrapped around the end of a pencil, then buff the area smooth using your new Porter Cable.
all very good ideas
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Old May 10, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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I'm no expert but the body shop (Chevy dealer) that did my paint after some a-hole vandalized it, used "Strata" Ultra Cutting Cream and then Swirl Remover for the finishing up.It's made by Presta this stuff works, I'm gonna get a bottle of each soon just for maintenance sake.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Frito Bandito
The water spots are probably etched into your paint if a clay bard doesn't work. Usually a little polishing will take care of them. If you are working by hand Meguiars ScratchX on a foam applicator pad will usually do the trick. Your arm will hurt for a few years but it will work.

If you have a little more money to invest buy a Porter Cable 7424, a flexible backing plate, a couple of Lake Country 6" pads and some Mothers Power Polish and do it much faster. While you are at it polish the whole truck, you will be amazed at the difference.

As far as rock chips you can touch those up yourself with a little patience. The cheapest route would be to buy some touch up paint and plastic toothpicks. Dip the end of the toothpick in the touch up paint then touch it to the chip. The paint will be drawn into the chip when you do this. Use very little paint so you dont overfill the chip. This way you can do it a couple of times to fill the chip say 80% so it will barely be noticable. If you want to get fancy you can fill the chip all the way up then wetsand it smoot using 2000 unigrit sandpaper wrapped around the end of a pencil, then buff the area smooth using your new Porter Cable.
Good tips. I have had good luck with Optimum polishes and compounds with Lake Country pad.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by COLDZ71
Good tips. I have had good luck with Optimum polishes and compounds with Lake Country pad.
Thanks. I like Optimum Polish, Compound and Hyper Compound too but I feel like they have a bit of a learning curve. Mothers Powerpolish is good stuff, you can get it OTC and its idiot proof so I don't hesitate to recommend it to a newb. Also can't go wrong with Menzerna Intensive Polish and Final Polish 2 or Meguiars #83 and #80.
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Old May 10, 2007 | 09:47 PM
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Optimum polish makes some fantastic products...

But for GM Paint, since it's so hard, I recommend using something like Poorboys or Meguiars...

I only use up to #83 Meguiars on both orbital and rotary polishers. You have to be careful, though with a rotary or you'll burn the clear. Not fun lookin at holograms, even on a stock paint job. My advise would be to purchase yourself a Porter cable DA sander, a velcro backing, and some type of pads, like the Lake Country pads.

I use Number 83 with the lake country yellow pad for most of my jobs. It's a nice abrassive cut that won't burn the clear when used with a DA polisher.

Good luck!
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