SHOW & SHINE DISCUSSION Appearance | Detailing | Wheels | Truck of the Month
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Getting closer to painting the hood

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 12:51 PM
  #71  
BlackGMC's Avatar
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,216
Likes: 20
From: Fort Worth - TX
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
I added the quote from the place I got the primer. I believe its Dupont Nason.... Anyway I'm somewhat with you. I want the base to stick well obviously. My source for my painting tips is the forum on Autobodystore.com. They recommend 400-600. I also sanded some of my plastic pieces with 400 and the base didn't cover it... you can see some fine scratches in them. The mirror caps I did last I sanded with 800 and so far so good with them.

I think alot of the manufacturers recommendations are for ideal circumstances... For example a show car, you would work you way up to a higher grit sandpaper for the best finish... However the paint would not have the durability to resist chips and dents... I would stick with 320 until all the small scratches are gone and the panel is wave free. Then go over it with 400 if you like. The base and clear coat your going to spray is pretty thick and you won't see any of the sanding scratches... However if you leave larger scratches (scratches from the DA) they will be seen. This is another reason why you put several coats on. The Urethane primer you are spaying provides excellent coverage and fills scratches great!!! That is what I used on my mustang, and the final paint was sooo clear you could put your contacts in your eye with the depth of the paint...
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #72  
BlackGMC's Avatar
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,216
Likes: 20
From: Fort Worth - TX
Default

Have you bought your rubbing compound and swirl remover yet?
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #73  
KySilverado's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 7
From: Central Kentucky
Default

Originally Posted by BlackGMC
Have you bought your rubbing compound and swirl remover yet?
I have some already. Open to suggestions.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #74  
BlackGMC's Avatar
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,216
Likes: 20
From: Fort Worth - TX
Default

I like to use micro finishing compound,



and

Fill'n Glaze pink (Yes it is pink...)





Once again this is my personal preferance and it is what I was taught to use... If you want to try them the Part Numbers are on the bottles in the picture...
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #75  
KySilverado's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 7
From: Central Kentucky
Default

Shooting color.
1st tack coat.


Second medium/heavy coat.


I'd like to get one more coat on it but don't know if I have enought paint. I can still see some scratches in it.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #76  
fastnblu's Avatar
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 1
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
buddy with a paint shop. It would make it so much easier!
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ___
...specialty guide coat.
Like doin a tranny w/ tranny jack or a rearend w/ good shop eqpt.?

SEM guide coat or plain black spray for guide coat.

Originally Posted by KySilverado
For those that may want to know. Devilbliss Finishline gun. 1.8 tip with the epoxy. 20 psi at the gun.
I was gonna say that gun looked familiar.

Originally Posted by onebad03
BTW i work at a body shop and i use the same gun at home, the boss buys SATA.
SATA - nice stuff! For me, it's Devilbiss or SATA.

Originally Posted by BlackGMC
What I like to do with left over primer/paint that I am going to respray again is put in a clean jar, then put it in the fridge... Curing paint is actually a chemical reaction, by putting the paint in the fridge you are slowing down the chemical reaction, allowing you to use it again later...
...
I've never tried that. What's the longest u left in fridge & still had good product? Man, IDK, w/ your food & all.

BlackGMC is hookin u up on the info, Roger. I try his ideas (& have used all his ideas, except the fridge ).

Prolly too late now, but for other projects. I too was used to 320# dry. Use 400# either dry or I prefer 400# wet.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #77  
KySilverado's Avatar
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 5,446
Likes: 7
From: Central Kentucky
Default

I got 3 good coats of color on it. Aside from several dusts and still see some sand marks the actual paint looks good.

I'm really bummed.





Hopefully the clear will hide some of it. I'm doubtful.
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 05:23 PM
  #78  
BlackGMC's Avatar
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,216
Likes: 20
From: Fort Worth - TX
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
I'd like to get one more coat on it but don't know if I have enought paint. I can still see some scratches in it.
How much base coat did you buy? Quart? How far away are you holding the gun fromt he hood? Kinda sounds like you going threw too much paint, your settings on your gun might need some adjustments... When you sprayed the primer, afterwards was the surface really rough or smooth? You might be dry spraying and that is why you going threw sooo much paint. Dry spraying is where the paint actually starts to dry before it hits the panel...

Originally Posted by fastnblu
I've never tried that. What's the longest u left in fridge & still had good product? Man, IDK, w/ your food & all.
Primer will last a couple of days, fully mixed paint will last about 12-24 hours... At my parents where I usually do most of my big paint jobs, my father has a fridge in the garage... I like using jars, cause they seal well...
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 05:24 PM
  #79  
BlackGMC's Avatar
Resident Retard
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 17,216
Likes: 20
From: Fort Worth - TX
Default

Originally Posted by KySilverado
I got 3 good coats of color on it. Aside from several dusts and still see some sand marks the actual paint looks good.

I'm really bummed.
Hopefully the clear will hide some of it. I'm doubtful.
I think your doing a great job, especially since this is your first time and with no one helping you!!! The clear may or may not hide the scratches just depends on how deep they are... IMO you should be extremely proud!!!
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2008 | 05:28 PM
  #80  
fastnblu's Avatar
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,718
Likes: 1
Default

The reason you go thru substrate when sandin is primer (or paint/ clear) sticks to flats & wants to run off sharp lines. Therefore, there's always less on the edges. That's another reason to start sprayin before/ finishin after panel, keepin wrist flat.

Forgot to say, 1 tack coat & 1 wetcoat? I really doubt you'll get proper coverage only w/ 2. I say 1 tack & 2 wetcoats @ the very least. Last u want is wet sandin upper paint layer(s) & breakin thru to substrate. Clear will be easier to run or create sags than colorcoat.

And, depending on where those 2 lites @ top of your booth were before u put them there, hopefully u wiped them or blew off.
Dust in paint, the suspects:
-On the painter,
-on what u r paintin
-in the environment, on surrounding crap, or floatin around, w/ potential to contaminate one's work.

Also, I'm w/ Black, be proud. Don't worry on little dust nib. Even a run or sag. It's part of learning. U don't have a downdraft booth, so no worries. Even then, **** happens. It's all in the prep. Mistakes happen...not just in painting. If u ain't makin a mistake, how are you going to learn?

Last edited by fastnblu; Jul 6, 2008 at 05:34 PM.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:32 AM.