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Does any one recommend a kit i can buy that i can use to do some touch up paint repair. I have couple deep scratches i would like to attempt to repair my self. I was looking at paintscratch.com. but after reading some reviews im a little hesitant. Im looking for like a diy beginner kit or a list of supplies i should buy. Can of spray Primer Base color Clear coat. Body filler Approtate sand papers based on stages of prep work. And anything else i may need.
Your local autobody & paint (jobber) supply can mix and fill rattle cans with the colors you want.
They have all the supplies you need and can offer advice if needed. (retired body/paint tech)
o reilys can mix you a spray can of you factory color , get some evercoat glaze putty and some 320 180 and some wet 6-800 papper and 1500 and 3000 for buffing, use 180 in the scratches only andtight wipe the area smallas you can use wet and dry 320 to wet block it, then let it dry and spray small area with primer the block it with 320 wet and dry water block it, the go back over it with 6-800 then it ready for paint
I used rattle can's of sandable primer, paint, and clear coat form AutomotiveTouchup.com when I replaced my rockers. Results exceeded my expectations. Only issue is I have a paint line, but I'm not sure how you are going to paint a partial panel and not have a paint line using any method.
I'm not sure how you are going to paint a partial panel and not have a paint line using any method.
It's called a 'blend" but you need professional spray equipment to do that. You basically blend in the old color to the new using base clears, base, and clear coats.
Thanks RedXray, good video. I have painted two cars before with mid-priced paint guns. However, this past April I replaced my rockers and cab corners which are mostly covered by my step bars anyway. Putting up plastic in the garage to make a paint booth and dealing with paint guns is a PITA for such a small area that is hard to see anyway. So I used the high end rattle can method. It turned out better than I expected. Plus the paint on my 2001 is original, so there are worse features than the paint lines in other places. Pictures are before washing, so still tons of sanding dust. Pictures show different sides of the truck, but cut out area was similar.
You have that piece of molding on the cab to hide the cut line.
There is also a procedure called "back taping" or "back masking" where you fold the tape backward to eliminate the hard edge. You still have to keep away and let the paint sorta blow to the edge of the tape and not leave a real wet transition.
This is my cart that im considering ordering through paint scratch.com
Does this seem high? I will try to get some pics of what im trying to fix so you all can have a better idea of what im trying to accomplish. I have not made it to a paint supply shop yet to duscuss what i need or there prices.
I used rattle can's of sandable primer, paint, and clear coat form AutomotiveTouchup.com when I replaced my rockers. Results exceeded my expectations. Only issue is I have a paint line, but I'm not sure how you are going to paint a partial panel and not have a paint line using any method.
Does this seem high? I will try to get some pics of what im trying to fix so you all can have a better idea of what im trying to accomplish. I have not made it to a paint supply shop yet to duscuss what i need or there prices.
Paint supplies are getting ridiculously expensive. When I started painting in the mid 1970's the cost for the very best paint on the market was DuPont Imron at $36 a gallon. It was the first "activated" Polyurethane paint on the market. It was actually an aviation paint that made it's way to the automotive market. It's not much different from today's two part urethane clears.
Just the gallon can of PPG Deltron Victory Red basecoat is over $500. Then you add activators, clears, epoxy primers, reducers, sealers ect. you can understand why a good quality paint job is around 5 grand nowadays... with minor body repair!