Boost Gauge in 99-02 Cluster
Nov 30, 2012 | 12:08 PM
#1
Boost Gauge in 99-02 Cluster
Finally got the boost gauge into my '01 cluster. I used an Autometer Z-series because it was the closest match to the factory cluster, and it didn't have LED backlighting so it's still dimmable using the factory **** without any extra fancy dimmer switch.
The cluster is made of 5 pieces, from front to back they are: the front trim/lens, the gauge face, the white intermediate piece, the circuit board, and the black back plate. All need to be modified except the front trim, the gauge literally slid right in with a firm fit. If you use a shallow gauge you might not have to do much modding to the rear pieces. The Z-series gauge was very deep.
Unfortunately you have to remove the clear lens to get the gauge in. I broke my factory one and had to get a replacement (part number 16230512), and broke that one too. Got another one and I was very careful. I used an xacto blade to detach just half of the lens from the trim, just enough to bend the lens up and slide in the gauge, and this made it WAY easier to glue the lens back on in the right position. The replacement lenses were FAR easier to get off than the factory one was, no heat any anything special was needed. Once I slid the blade in the lens basically peeled off around the blade, then I just moved the blade around the perimeter to peel off just enough of the lens.
The circuit board does need to be cut, but it's easy. The only circuits you will end up cutting are those for the trans temp gauge that was never there. I used a hole saw on the gauge face and was VERY careful. I ended up screwing the gauge to the back face so it can't come loose.
I'm happy with the results, but my main problem is the glare on the gauge which is there about 90% of the time in the day. If there was a way to remove the lens from the boost gauge it would eliminate the issue. It probably can be removed but I didn't want to risk damaging the gauge.
If I were to do it again I would attempt to find a shallower gauge and maybe take the plunge and go with an LED gauge so only the number are lit and not the whole face, just like stock. The Autometer ES gauges are badass, but come with red LED's for night, no thanks. Other options were the sport comp II but the bezel would need to be painted black.
Used the nuts that came with the gauge and some washers as spacers to support the black backplate when tightening the nuts:
The cluster is made of 5 pieces, from front to back they are: the front trim/lens, the gauge face, the white intermediate piece, the circuit board, and the black back plate. All need to be modified except the front trim, the gauge literally slid right in with a firm fit. If you use a shallow gauge you might not have to do much modding to the rear pieces. The Z-series gauge was very deep.
Unfortunately you have to remove the clear lens to get the gauge in. I broke my factory one and had to get a replacement (part number 16230512), and broke that one too. Got another one and I was very careful. I used an xacto blade to detach just half of the lens from the trim, just enough to bend the lens up and slide in the gauge, and this made it WAY easier to glue the lens back on in the right position. The replacement lenses were FAR easier to get off than the factory one was, no heat any anything special was needed. Once I slid the blade in the lens basically peeled off around the blade, then I just moved the blade around the perimeter to peel off just enough of the lens.
The circuit board does need to be cut, but it's easy. The only circuits you will end up cutting are those for the trans temp gauge that was never there. I used a hole saw on the gauge face and was VERY careful. I ended up screwing the gauge to the back face so it can't come loose.
I'm happy with the results, but my main problem is the glare on the gauge which is there about 90% of the time in the day. If there was a way to remove the lens from the boost gauge it would eliminate the issue. It probably can be removed but I didn't want to risk damaging the gauge.
If I were to do it again I would attempt to find a shallower gauge and maybe take the plunge and go with an LED gauge so only the number are lit and not the whole face, just like stock. The Autometer ES gauges are badass, but come with red LED's for night, no thanks. Other options were the sport comp II but the bezel would need to be painted black.
Used the nuts that came with the gauge and some washers as spacers to support the black backplate when tightening the nuts:
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